traksta15

who here on this forum has the loudest system?im new to the forum and just trying to get to know everyone.also what setup were you running when you hit ur score and what box specs also......i have 2 premier 2000spl w/a hifonics amp in a crappy prefab 2 cube box, and havent gotten metered yet but i hope to hit close to 140 with my new box im about to start on..........

ScrapMaker

if you ask me, it's kinda silly to have a system for the sole purpose of "SPL Reasons"....

a system that costs $300 can put out ~137db (for reference,) and to get a system that puts out about 3db more requires twice as much power, and usually four times the money...

all that said... asking a question like this will get so many bs responses because people all use different spl testers... and have 'foggy' memories of the competitions, to be polite about it... but most people on forums are probably lying about their braggin' right... just like so many people do on racing forums...

people who respond should state the type of mic used, the hz of the frequency and how much spent on equipment...

traksta15

yeah i should of clarified on that one, i didn't expect to see any competition fbodys on here, i guess i meant "post ur score"

ScrapMaker

cool, because most of the people on here that actually have a score, just have normal every-day systems, that they just happened to have measured in a competition... I don't know if there are actually and DB "drag racers" in here...

ddn69

i think there may be a few but who cares. SPL/DB dont mean **** to me if it doesnt sound good...

ScrapMaker

hold on... I think it DOES mean ****... because it will sound like ****!

ryanL04

well, i bought a new car. still have the fbird thought. currently up for sale. but as far as the question purposed.

my spl rating with a term lab mic hit a 142.4 db with two 10's, a sealed box, memphis 1100D amplifier, 4 awg wire, and ONE car battery. that was the reading in my firebird. now with the new car, im gonna run a ported box, and the car will get better accoustics or so ive heard. so im probably going to be at about a 143-144max.

ScrapMaker

it's a shame every ported box I've ever heard sounds sloppy..

is it worth that 1db?

traksta15

what kind of subs do you have in ur fbird ryan??my goal is to hit 140.....

ScrapMaker

are you going for 140 in a sealed box?

because it's typical to lose like 110% of your SQ when you port it...

at least of all the boxes I've heard... they were just boomy as hell...

ryanL04

well scrap im putting in a different ported box. it was built today and being installed tomarrow for optimum air space and made just right so the single port(slot in the center of the two subs) doesnt sound bad whatsoever. also gotta remember its going in a different car.

for my subs, im runnin my same ole two 10" jl audio w3v2 subs. im hittin 142.4 pretty much becasue of the amp. its a very high priced but worth it amp if your going to SPL. the memphis 1100D m-series amp sells in big cities for around $550 or above. i got it at cost casue i work for a car audio place so of course it was worth it for me.

i cant run LOW frequencies with the memphis 1100d amplifier to those two 10" w3v2 subs because im RMSing WAY more than i should be. im pushing my subs pretty damn hard. and if a really low frequency comes along (like a lil jon song) then the subs pop. like a plastic cup pop(obviously not good). but it does the trick and i dont really drive around town listening to my stereo rmsing at 140db. id be deaf by now.

9177

I can change your mind As long as the goal for a ported box is SQ and not spl they can be made to sound very good. But it also takes a woofer designed for it.

traksta15

do u think i'll be able to hit 140?i think i have a chance, i know there's a million variables to deal with, but compared to other camaro setups u've heard will i be able to hit it?<----hehe.btw i have 2 2000spl's and a hifonics 1500d, the box will be sealed int he well of the trunk (does anyone know how much air there is there using 3/4 wood?)TIA

ryanL04

haha. your hifoncs amp sucks. just so you know. i upgraded from a hifonics to my new memphis that i have now.

MIC TESTED SO PROVEN!! :: Hifonics brutus 1000D with my two jl audio subs tested at a 138.8 << not bad i guess.

Memphis 1100D with my two jl audio subs (NO SIGNIFICANT CLAIMED WATTAGE GAIN AND NO POWER CLASS CHANGE) tested at a 142.4 <<<

compare those two scores, and thats more than doubling the power of the stereo system to gain that much db. i have absolutely no faith or good things to say about hifonics when in comparison to either jl audio or memphis amps. kthx

slammed_z

i hit 138.9 at a iasca event with a almost blown sub..what i mean by almost blow is old and scratchy sounding,they were 2 jl audio 12 wo's
but i got new subs so i think about 140's now

i got a panasonic 700u deck,4g lightning audio wiring,red top optima battery,1600 watt power acoustic amp,2 jl audio 12' w1v2's and a 1.0 lightning audio capacitor

traksta15

i agree, hifonics amps are good budget amps, but jl is overprice out the a$$, and memphis is expensive ahell, i would love to have both names, but a 500wrms jl amp is twice the price of the hifonics 1500d (around 1300-1400rms), i do love the memphis amps though, they're sexy!!

traksta15

hey slammedz, i remember ur car form cardomain, its of my favorite fbody's i've seen.....thats a sick car

slammed_z

thanks man

traksta15

oh and btw ryan, that memphis amp is rated at 1100 i believe (or 1000 i cant remember) and its probably underrated (expect around 1100-1200 if so), and the hifonics is slightly overrated (expect 800-900 out of the 1000d) so running ur subs 400rms apiece from the hifonics for example to 600rms from the memphis for example....it might not be audible but it SHOULD be louder when it comes to getting metered (don't know if its that big of a gain though)nice system though, i bet it *****!

ScrapMaker

ryan were the subs wired to the same exact load on the hifonics as they are on your memphis?

oh yeah...

hifonics

sucks.

ryanL04

yeah they were. hifonics was wired to 1ohm. and now the memphis im currently running is wired to 1ohm as well.

just so you know traksta. that hifoncs amp i had running. which was the 1000D. that amp can NOT even blow a 50amp fuse in the amp and/or distribution block. its running between 301 and 499 continuous watts. While my memphis amp i have now, blew out TWO 50 amp fuses IN the amp, so i replaced the fuses with 10awg wiring so now i dont have a fuse in my amp anymore. i run a 80 amp fuse in my distribution block.

ryanL04

traksta,

the memphis amp i have is the m-series 1100D.. 1100 watts at 1ohm. it doesnt literally run 1100watts continuous, BUT it is very powerful, and extremely power hungry. this puts that hifonics 1000watt amp to shame and i garantee it still puts the hifonics 1500watt to shame as well.

traksta15

i already said memphis made better amps (or thought i implied it), but they're not $2-$300 better......IMO that it, to some people maybe, but not mine. some people say hifonics suck, some don't i think they're overrated a lil, but for the price, u can't beat it (again IMO) i would rather go out and spend $250 for the hifonics 1500d, than $400ish for the memphis amp....This is all in my opinion of course and i guess i'm just trying to say hifonics has a better price/power ratio, but if you were to disregard the price i would agree memphis does make better amps..........

ryanL04

yeah. price/power ratio hifonics is pretty decent. but if your someone like me, i built my stereo system for competiton purposes. it also helps i get everything at cost/dealership prices but i mean, i built it solely for compitition spl ratings. i like winning trophies and money

ScrapMaker

just so you know... I've never personally owned one.. but I'm planning on getting one real soon... but Elemental Designs makes a 1200-1400rms watt monoblock amp

they are supposedly rock solid and they are pleasing to look at.

$350(shipped)... only about $100 more than hifonics, but you get a 3 year warranty and something that actuall puts out more power than it claims.

NiNe.1 1200w

ryanL04

i only paid $300 after taxes with 2 year warranty for my brand new memphis 1100D amp because i get dealership cost.

ryanL04

okay. so i bought a new ford probe gt. v6 5speed. its quick i guess. but more or less i put my system in it. transfered it over from my fbird to this new gt. put a new ported box in. mic tested at peak frequency 145.4 db. wooooooo its loud. thats really good too for two 10's. yup yup.

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

..... the amp has a fuse in it for a reason.. unless you want to melt you amp down or if you want to have a fire.... well maybe not with speaker wite bridgin the gaps but come on thats just not smart.....

traksta15

lol i had a friend with a profile amp (ap2000 i believe) pushin 2 hx2's and he thought he was cool when he texted me sayin "dude my amp is runnin fine with no fuses in it", then a lil while later he texted me again sayin "dude i blew my amp up....." i laughed my a$$ off.

ryanL04

the way i have my amp set up its perfectly fine to be ran how it is. trust me, i work at a car audio shop. i pretty much know my ****. especially when i refer other people to check out things and use my car as a demo for the w3v2 subs and memphis amp. theres absolutely nothing wrong with how i did it and there will never be anything wrong with how i did it. id take a pic n show it but i just put in my stereo in the new car today and i dont feel like taking the amp out agian (its on the underside of the amp)

ScrapMaker

so you replaced the fuse with a wire, and you think that's perfectly okay?

what happens if the amp tries to pull more current than it can handle?

(if one of the voicecoils on the sub melts, couldn't it cause a really tough load on the amp? -- causing it to normally blow the fuse?)

9177

thought for the day "i just hooked my amp up and it works fine if you BYPASS the saftey features". If your amp can't handle the stock fuses that came with it either you have it hooked up wrong (I know you work at a shop, you say that with every post) or you need better ground source. The idea you have of being able to blow a fuse doesn't mean the amp is top of the line it means you have a problem with it. That is like telling someone with a leaking radiator to just by pass it and not worry about it.

ryanL04

the fuses that were in it, its not an outside fuse either. like, you couldnt see it, its underneth, literally inside the amp. the fuses wernt big enough, i had to much current draw so it blew the fuse. what i did was, get 2 pieces of 10awg wire, about an inch long. maybe a tiny bit longer. put connectors on both ends of the 2 wires. and put then in the fuse slots with a needle nose.(yes it was semi hard to do, more time consuming than hard) now, the amp can run/have/push more current draw or consistant power than with a small fuse it.

ScrapMaker

that's what he's saying... the fuse that was already in the amp is what it's intended for... unless you are using more current than the amp is supposed to pull... somehow... like running it at 0.5ohms...(the only way to pull more than it's designed)

ryanL04

which is easily possible to do. the memphis 1100d amp that i have can be ran at .5 ohm stable.

ScrapMaker

but you said before you were running it at 1ohm... so there is no reason it should blow.

ryanL04

yeah i am running at 1ohm. but im gonna get more output with how i have it set up rather than put fuses in it. theres more consistant power thats being able to be ran through it.

ryanL04

to make this short. the whole reason for even replying to was confirm that i have no worries about "melting down my amp" or "causeing a fire" with how i have my stereo set up. its perfectly safe.

unbonyr

what do think i will hit im going to have 1 15" Kicker L7 in a 2.5 cu sealed box about 800 clean watts running of a boss amp. Im also getting pair of jbl power 3-way 6 by 9's getting about 110 watts to each of them and jbl power 4 by 6 plates with about 50 wats going to each of them. installed by about the middle of this week

unbonyr

also how much of the pillow stuffer stuff should i put in a 2 ft box if i want to get around 2.5 cu feet

ScrapMaker

hey ryan, I'm sure as long as you run it at 1ohm, you would be fine...

my main concern is why on earth do you NEED to do that... the amp should be able to run a 1ohm load without blowing it's own fuse...

unless it's one of those 2ohm-stable amps... some of the memphis ones are.

onebadwagon

the only memphis M class amp that will play below 1 ohm reliably is the 1000d ( or the big belle, but it's basically the same amp with a 4 channel in the same chassis).

the rest of them are pretty much stuck with ~2 ohms.

ryanL04

the 1100D is just new M-series name. also they added 100 more watts and instead of calling it the 1000D they renamed it to the 1100D.. clever aint it?

ScrapMaker

is it just me, or does shorting the fuse connection with 10AWG wire seem like a horrible idea... either it will damage the amp, or there is already something wrong that you are compensating for... (it shouldn't blow it's own fuse if you have it wired at its appropriate load level)

ryanL04

like i said, i just installed the system in my car, and im not about to take the amp out just for a lil picture of the underside. its perfectly safe. theres absolutely nothing wrong with doing it HOW I DID IT WITH THE CORRECT CONECTIONS. theres also absolutely nothing wrong with the amp.

Cuno

http://www.termpro.com/asp/competito...23545&Season=0

I hit 143.6db with 4 Alpine Type R 12" subs in a sealed box running off of 2 Punch 500a2 amps a few years back.

ScrapMaker

Ryan, can you please explain why the amp, wired at 1-ohm, would draw more current than what the stock fuse is rated for?

ryanL04

they wernt correct size fuses. they were only 30 amp that were in the lil baggy that i grabbed on accident. in reality it should have had two 40 amp fuses in it. and i have a current draw of a lil more than 30 amps so they blew. in all conclusion, wire, with the proper connections and proper installation. works better in my case. i am able to have more current draw, and im compititions, i techinically dont have any in amp fuse. so i can drop or "fidget" with the different classes that i want to compete in since its rated on something else.

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

well......

the guys at the car dealership dont neccessarily know about the cars they are selling 9/10 times.

just because you sell this stuff doesnt make you a pro with it and doesnt make you right. i dont care about a pic of you rigging because i never plan on doing that and i dont want you to give the new guys any ideas.

to think that you demo your car for people you sell stuff to is scary, thats like showing someone a handgrenade to sell them fireworks

ScrapMaker

it's exactly the same as this computer guy I used to know...

he'd tell the people in the store... "look, I'm not supposed to tell you this, but the processor can EASILY be overclocked to the speed of that other one that's twice as much! No extra fans needed!"

knowing full well that the people would end up destroying it, and coming back for a new one in a few months.