fuse blocks
#1
fuse blocks
should you always have a fuse block protecting your amps?
i have a 3 amp setup. running separate power and grounds for all three. the amps are fused but should you still run a distribution block then?
i have a 3 amp setup. running separate power and grounds for all three. the amps are fused but should you still run a distribution block then?
#2
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
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If you're running 3 separate fused lines, there will be no benefit in fusing them again near the amps.
Out of curiousity, why are you running 3 separate lines instead of one larger one?
Out of curiousity, why are you running 3 separate lines instead of one larger one?
#4
Originally posted by Jim85IROC
If you're running 3 separate fused lines, there will be no benefit in fusing them again near the amps.
Out of curiousity, why are you running 3 separate lines instead of one larger one?
If you're running 3 separate fused lines, there will be no benefit in fusing them again near the amps.
Out of curiousity, why are you running 3 separate lines instead of one larger one?
#5
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From: North Canton, Ohio
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Originally posted by Kandied91z
each power line is 1 guage. rather difficult to find a distribution block to split it and just more going on. since the amps are fused i thought it would be easier to just run 3 separate wires. that and the batteries are all less then a foot or so from the amps so if i can get away with it that's less money i need to spend.
each power line is 1 guage. rather difficult to find a distribution block to split it and just more going on. since the amps are fused i thought it would be easier to just run 3 separate wires. that and the batteries are all less then a foot or so from the amps so if i can get away with it that's less money i need to spend.
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#8
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I'd still fuse each line right off the battery even if you're only running a foot. It probably doesn't matter from a safety standpoint, but if you ever find yourself in a sanctioned competition, you will probably lose points for not having them.
What amps are you running that require 1 AWG wire? A four foot length of 4 AWG wire can support over 150 amps with less than .5 volt drop.
What amps are you running that require 1 AWG wire? A four foot length of 4 AWG wire can support over 150 amps with less than .5 volt drop.
#11
just want to make sure wether i should fuse them or not. i would say might as well just as precaution but that's another couple hundred in parts just for the right pieces so i want to make sure it's the right thing to do.
#12
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Couple hundred in parts? Ouch. Unless you absolutely insist on some specific name brand, you may want to shop around a little bit:
3 fuse holders at $10 each = $30
3 150 Amp fuses at $6 each = $18
3 pairs of 0 AWG ring terminals at $15 each = $45
Still not exactly cheap, but definately way under $200.
3 fuse holders at $10 each = $30
3 150 Amp fuses at $6 each = $18
3 pairs of 0 AWG ring terminals at $15 each = $45
Still not exactly cheap, but definately way under $200.
#14
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Originally posted by Jim85IROC
Couple hundred in parts? Ouch. Unless you absolutely insist on some specific name brand, you may want to shop around a little bit:
Still not exactly cheap, but definately way under $200.
Couple hundred in parts? Ouch. Unless you absolutely insist on some specific name brand, you may want to shop around a little bit:
Still not exactly cheap, but definately way under $200.
I could probably get all of the above parts, albeit not brand names, for around $30 at Electronics City in Burbank, CA.
#15
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Originally posted by Crayz9000
Why bother with the gold plating? It'll wear down anyway, if you want a good connection you should just clamp it firm and dab a bit of solder on it.
I could probably get all of the above parts, albeit not brand names, for around $30 at Electronics City in Burbank, CA.
Why bother with the gold plating? It'll wear down anyway, if you want a good connection you should just clamp it firm and dab a bit of solder on it.
I could probably get all of the above parts, albeit not brand names, for around $30 at Electronics City in Burbank, CA.
Kandied,
I'm not sure what to say about fusing or no fusing. If it was me, I'd build a nice little platform right above the battery with the 3 fuses lined up. It'll look good and it'll pass IASCA (and other similar sanctioning bodies) guidelines. Whether or not it will actually give you any added level of safety, well that's another story.
#17
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
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you are running these amps off of a rear-mounted battery with short leads?
I'm also curious as to what kind of battery setup you have that can deliver 1000amps of power... that's the only reason for 3 1AWG power lines, unless it's purely for looks.
these must be those rackmount amplifiers? driven by 3 or 4 deep-cycles?
I'm also curious as to what kind of battery setup you have that can deliver 1000amps of power... that's the only reason for 3 1AWG power lines, unless it's purely for looks.
these must be those rackmount amplifiers? driven by 3 or 4 deep-cycles?
#21
thanks jim.
that's just for the sub setup though. i have sx900.4's and a sx900.2 for the the two sets of ss65.2's and mb8's for the doors.
that's just for the sub setup though. i have sx900.4's and a sx900.2 for the the two sets of ss65.2's and mb8's for the doors.
Last edited by Kandied91z; 05-10-2005 at 02:25 PM.
#23
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
I guess I should have gone back through the thread... but I was on my handheld pc, using a usb cable to my cell phone...
it's nearly impossible to even navigate to this site and post...
luckily I'm at work now, with my DSL
so how many speakers TOTAL are you workin' with here?
you have some woofers in the doors... do you also have kick enclosures... for possible 3-way components?
I'm not all that familiar with the model numbers of amps... but it looks like you have 3 amps running subs, and 2 or 3 amps running your mids/highs.. pretty intense
sounds like it's gonna rock...
did you get sponsord by Autotek/MaxxSonix?
I love my sx-4160... pounds almost as much as that mistake-of-an-amplifier Hifonics 1605D.....
do you have any pics so I can drool on myself?
it's nearly impossible to even navigate to this site and post...
luckily I'm at work now, with my DSL
so how many speakers TOTAL are you workin' with here?
you have some woofers in the doors... do you also have kick enclosures... for possible 3-way components?
I'm not all that familiar with the model numbers of amps... but it looks like you have 3 amps running subs, and 2 or 3 amps running your mids/highs.. pretty intense
sounds like it's gonna rock...
did you get sponsord by Autotek/MaxxSonix?
I love my sx-4160... pounds almost as much as that mistake-of-an-amplifier Hifonics 1605D.....
do you have any pics so I can drool on myself?
#24
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From: Austin, Texas
Car: 2000 Trans Am WS6 (Black)
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
if he's at a lot of shows... can't you hook up a AC>DC 12v power supply?
my buddy always does that when he is playing his stereo at work...
my buddy always does that when he is playing his stereo at work...
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