Red1991TransAm

I was thinking about going to a gel battery in my 91 Trans Am. I've heard many things about these types of batteries. My car will probably be sitting during the week and only out on sunny weekends. I have a stereo/amp setup also in the car. Is this type of battery better for this type of situation? Any info will help greatly!!!

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

If you are referring to the Optima batteries I say they are worth every penny. I've been using the same yellow top for over 7 years without failure. My car also sits for long periods and starts every time.

Red1991TransAm

What about yellow top vs red top? I will have a small system and just around town driving.... I was thinking red top.

Dustin Mustangs

iTrader: (1)

Same for my camaro, but I'm using a diehard. I don't see the point to these optimas. When replacing my battery in my daily driver (Buick) I asked the guy about them and he said there worth the money because when they blow up in your engine compartment they don't make as big of a mess. Uh yeah...ok? Not much of salesman I guess. I ended up buying a diehard gold with more cca's that was half the cost. They look cool, I guess that's a plus.

ScrapMaker

for a daily driver/small audio system, there is NO POINT in getting an optima

a regular cheapass car battery will last many many years, many times longer than you own your car...

otima is for extreme situations, or people who just want the best of the best.

yellowtop is the best for audio imo

NEEDAZ

As a side note, put are car on a battery charger every month or so and watch the cheapo battery last for 7 years.

ScrapMaker

does charging them separately really improve the longevity that much?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I think the one key point no one has mentioned yet in difference, is when charging a lead-acid battery (normal), you get hydrogen fumes, no big deal in your engine compartment, but if you are going to put one in your hatch area, ie. dual battery setup, you want to use optima, so no fumes (which can be ignited by the spark of your amp somehow...?) and you can mount an optima sideways, upside down (why you'd want to I'm not sure...)
but yea, if it's just for the car, get a normal battery, they usually have 5 year warrantee's (or 7..) and cost 1/5 the price. Optima, I dare say in the audio board, is for ricers, someone who needs something bright and yellow in their car.

ScrapMaker

I want one only because of the dual purpose ability of the yellow tops

Red1991TransAm

Thanks for all the info everyone. I was just wondering because I am getting tired of getting the CHEAP batteries with the warranty and always having to trade them in every year or two. Just annoying.

Also was wondering about the corrosion that can be a problem on normal batteries. Do gel batteries produce the corrosion at the terminal??? I wouldn't think so.

Just some more questions.....

ScrapMaker

well if I'm not mistaken the terminal has absolutely nothing to do with the battery internals. I think it's aluminum or some rust-proof metal.

the reason your terminals keep corroding is because you need to put that silicon, or whatever that substance is that protects your battery terminals... being exposed to oxygen and water causes almost anything to corrode...

NEEDAZ

I can’t help it. But this is a vary broad statement. The truth is, if you may be deep cycling a battery, the yellow top is the way to go. A conventional Lead acid battery WILL NOT hold up like a yellow top to deep cycling. If you listen to your radio for a long time with the car off much, a yellow top is the way to go. A lead acid battery will build dendrites like crazy doing this.
And this is coming for someone that isn’t running and probably will never run and optima. Not worth the money to someone that used their car like I do.

kingbabone

go with an orbital from NAPA. They are dry batteries that out perform the optima... Plus the car orbital is black, not some flashy ***** color. The hydrogen thing is key if you have a nice car. Also the acid on a reg. battery can boil out if an alt is over charging and ruin your battery tray or hood. That acid is nasty $hit! I've had one for two years and never had a problem. I store my car in the winters and I don't put the car on charger and have never had to jump it... The are $125 and you can avoid shipping since napa's are easly to find.

ScrapMaker

Hrm never heard of that battery, guess I'll do some research on it.. do they have deep cycle versions? I listen to my car while the engine is off all the time, which is why I have a portable jump starter now!

kingbabone

yeah they have deep cycle and marine starting.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I use a yellow top optima in the car with a regular wet under the hood linked with an isolator. Last time I tried starting the car (over 6 months without being ran) the wet battery was dead but I was able to jump start the car by flipping my toggle and linking in the optima.

That's the nice thing about gel batteries. There made to hold a charge for a long time while in storage and they can use up that full charge and be zapped back full again with a charger without any worries or hurting their cycles.

You guys might want to check out:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

Pretty interesting info there and it actually proves a lot of the batteries on the market are just rebadged (different sticker) and marked up 200% or so.

ScrapMaker

hey fire I was thinking of adding the optima in the rear of my car with an isolater as well... has this worked out well for you?

I was going to have an ignition-controlled relay that connects both batteries, and when the car is off my stereo runs solely off the optima

I have lifetime warranty alternator, because I know that this will kill it often.

is there any point in not just having an ignition-controlled relay? why have a toggle switch?

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I have a solenoid isolator from PAC it's one of the cheap ones sold on Ebay. Anyways, I have a toggle switch so I can link the solenoid's posts. I can't remember the exact design but from what I recall there are 2 main posts those link up the batteries positive sides. There are also two other posts I think ones a ground the other is a 12 volt run to trigger the link. I have the toggle switch setup off a run hot only. That way I can break the link with the car running if I want. Wasn't necessary but I had the toggle so I just went ahead and put it in. If I ever take the battery out from going to the track I won't have to worry about a live power line laying in the back seat. Just something extra I add'd that really didn't need to be there.

Overall design has worked fine. I'm still not getting enough power even though I've overclocked the alternator pulley to around a 3.10:1 ratio. I've upgraded all the wires and etc. Basically makes it nice if your cars sits a long time without be used or if you want to power the system with the car being shut off. Other than that it just prolongs the eventually power drain to both batteries.