Anyone out there used Peel & Seal for a while?
#1
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Car: 82 Camaro; in process of resto
Engine: 350 4bbl.
Transmission: 700R4 with B&M Lockup
Axle/Gears: Moser 28-spline axle; 3.23 gears
Anyone out there used Peel & Seal for a while?
Has anyone had Peel and Seal in their car for a while? I've seen a few horror stories on here about other products, but nothing long-term good or bad about Peel and seal.
I'm working on sound insulation in my car...and like all the forum threads state--Dynamat prices are outrageous. I bought one 4 square foot roll & it ran me $34 plus tax! I guess I'll use that around my speakers (it is 'special').
I'm seriously considering peel and seal...I'm not trying to obtain 99% efficiency for acoustics, but I want to stop some rattles, block a little outside/background noise, and that will go a long way to helping stereo sounds. Peel & seal can be had local...and it can be had cheap. I live in Alabama, so the hot summer is bound to help to bake it on.
So...anybody been using it for a while? Are you happy?
I'm working on sound insulation in my car...and like all the forum threads state--Dynamat prices are outrageous. I bought one 4 square foot roll & it ran me $34 plus tax! I guess I'll use that around my speakers (it is 'special').
I'm seriously considering peel and seal...I'm not trying to obtain 99% efficiency for acoustics, but I want to stop some rattles, block a little outside/background noise, and that will go a long way to helping stereo sounds. Peel & seal can be had local...and it can be had cheap. I live in Alabama, so the hot summer is bound to help to bake it on.
So...anybody been using it for a while? Are you happy?
#2
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: sbc 400
Transmission: th350
i used it at least a year ago (cant remember). everything is still holding strong. i t took quite a bit of effort to pull some of it off when i was doing some work in the trunk. use a hair dryer/heatgun to put it on and it'll stick well
#3
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
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it really doesnt have a high heat tolerance, so u might just want to put some on flat surfaces. And maybe put some more adhesive on the surface.
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Car: 87' Red TA w/ 92k miles
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
It works well...I put it in my doors but unfortunetly didn't think to use a heat gun on it and one really hot day I had the windows down and went to put them back on and a piece had been sagging on the inside of the door so when I put my window up it stuck to the window and got pulled off when the window went up. Works great if you do it right...I'm not displeased with mine...just wish I had thought to use a heat gun. Works just like dynamat and for the price it can't be beat.
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Car: 1999 Chevy Cavalier
Engine: 2.2
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: it's part of the transmission
The key with anything like that is to prep the area well.
A good cleaner, like simple green would be perfect. It's tough enough to cut the grease, but won't break up the paint.
You could use carb cleaner too, it would stick very well after that.
A good cleaner, like simple green would be perfect. It's tough enough to cut the grease, but won't break up the paint.
You could use carb cleaner too, it would stick very well after that.
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Car: '89 Camaro RS
Engine: LB8 V6 MFI
Transmission: T-5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1
Home Depot and Lowe's carries a roofing product that's "very similar" to Dynamat and Peal N Seal.
Ice and Water Shield... a rubberized 'sticky as flypaper' stick-on roofing underlayment will do the job, and costs WAY less than either of the above.
Just my $.03
Ice and Water Shield... a rubberized 'sticky as flypaper' stick-on roofing underlayment will do the job, and costs WAY less than either of the above.
Just my $.03
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Car: 1986 Firebird Trans Am
Engine: Lg4
Transmission: 5 speed
I was checking Lowes homepage. I couldn’t find the product you mention. They have a product called Reflectix and another called Housewarp. Both in different size/price combination. Which one are you referring to?
#10
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Car: 82 Camaro; in process of resto
Engine: 350 4bbl.
Transmission: 700R4 with B&M Lockup
Axle/Gears: Moser 28-spline axle; 3.23 gears
I found the Peel & Seal at Lowe’s. Couldn't find the other products mentioned. Sure enough...$12.50 for a 6" wide roll 50' long (25 sq feet). I took the chance--
I used five rolls of it to insulate everything in the rear all the way to my 6x9s. I stopped there...haven't done anything under the seats forward.
I installed it on a hot day (95 outside), and used a wallpaper roller to make sure it was 'in place.' No strong odor...no problems so far. It did take a while to install, though. I spent in all probably 7 hours on this little project.
I'm going to leave the rear interior out of the car for about a week and watch the Peel & Seal. I know that only time will tell. Anyone that comes across this over time out of curiosity, feel free to e-mail me or reply to this thread if you want to know how it worked out long-term.
I used five rolls of it to insulate everything in the rear all the way to my 6x9s. I stopped there...haven't done anything under the seats forward.
I installed it on a hot day (95 outside), and used a wallpaper roller to make sure it was 'in place.' No strong odor...no problems so far. It did take a while to install, though. I spent in all probably 7 hours on this little project.
I'm going to leave the rear interior out of the car for about a week and watch the Peel & Seal. I know that only time will tell. Anyone that comes across this over time out of curiosity, feel free to e-mail me or reply to this thread if you want to know how it worked out long-term.
Last edited by yzarcem; 08-09-2004 at 03:50 PM.
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Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
Okay, how did it hold up?
Also how much do you think that this weighs per roll. I used similar ducting insulation on my other car. It is closed cell foam, adhesive on one side, and foil on the other. It adhered well, but I think tar would work better than the foam.
Also how much do you think that this weighs per roll. I used similar ducting insulation on my other car. It is closed cell foam, adhesive on one side, and foil on the other. It adhered well, but I think tar would work better than the foam.
#12
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So far the Home Depot equivalent is holding up well in my girlfriend's car doors. I cleaned the door with carb cleaner or brake cleaner (whatever I had on hand at the time), let it dry, then stuck the material into place. I then heated it with a heat gun, getting it hot enough for the tar to boil in places. I pressed the hot sheets very firmly to help them adhere better. So far nothing has come undone.
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Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
How long ago was that. You don't have very hot summers there in vermont, though. About how much does that stuff weigh per roll? I figure I need about 3 rolls for everything, but it is a trade off from weight, to comfort. I am pretty sure that comfort will win though.
I can only imagine how nice it would be to have a quiet rattle free interior. If it would be a nice inside as my nissan, I would be thrilled. I used rolls of adhesive backed closed cell foam, with an aluminum backing, and it helped alot. I would rather use the tar, as it is much more efective than tar.
I can only imagine how nice it would be to have a quiet rattle free interior. If it would be a nice inside as my nissan, I would be thrilled. I used rolls of adhesive backed closed cell foam, with an aluminum backing, and it helped alot. I would rather use the tar, as it is much more efective than tar.
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Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
Okay, I didn't know it got that warm there. Those temps should be fine then. Now I just have to locate some. All I have seen before is the foam stuff. I will see what I can find.
thanks
thanks
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