Brand Name For Power and Ground Wire.....
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Brand Name For Power and Ground Wire.....
I know the importance of getting very good quality RCA's, therefore i'd pick up some from a very well known brand name. Does the brand name for power and ground wires make any difference at all? Could I go out and buy walmart brand stuff without sacrificing power or efficiency?
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wire is wire
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The more expensive wire has finer strands which make it easier to bend around corners.
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Re: Brand Name For Power and Ground Wire.....
Originally posted by Bebefouch
I know the importance of getting very good quality RCA's, therefore i'd pick up some from a very well known brand name. Does the brand name for power and ground wires make any difference at all? Could I go out and buy walmart brand stuff without sacrificing power or efficiency?
I know the importance of getting very good quality RCA's, therefore i'd pick up some from a very well known brand name. Does the brand name for power and ground wires make any difference at all? Could I go out and buy walmart brand stuff without sacrificing power or efficiency?
btw you dont need to spend a whole bunch of money on good quality rcas, they're all pretty much the same...you can make your own for very cheap
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I bought chepo ones from London drugs.. ol pyramid.
Didn't feel so guilty shortening them when they were too long.
:P
work like a charm.
One thing Pyramid seems good for is accessories.. like connectors, wiring kits, RCS, etc.. things that can't be screwed up LOL
Didn't feel so guilty shortening them when they were too long.
:P
work like a charm.
One thing Pyramid seems good for is accessories.. like connectors, wiring kits, RCS, etc.. things that can't be screwed up LOL
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You might check out eBay. I used the search term "amp kit". I bought a kit with the following: (1) 25FT RCA DIGITAL INTERCONNECT AUDIO CABLE, TRIPLE SHIELDED WITH BUILT-IN REMOTE TURN ON WIRE AND RIGHT ANGLE ENDS FOR A TRICK INSTALL.
(1) 4 GAUGE 20 FT RED POWER CABLE (HIGH QUALITY)
(1) 4 GAUGE 4 FT SUPER GOLD GROUND CABLE
(1) 35FT OF 12 GAUGE SPEAKER CABLE
(1) 20FT BLUE REMOTE TURN ON WIRE 16 GAUGE
Water resistant Fuse Holder
AGU Fuse included
2 Ring Terminal, 4Ga. ID:5/16"
2 Spade terminal, 4Ga. ID: 10#
5 Spade terminal, 14-16GA. ID: 8#
2 Butt.Conn. 14-16GA, red
1 Butt.Conn. 4GA, red
3 Self-tapping Screws
20 Cable Ties, 6"
5 black grommets
The price with shipping was about $25.00. I thought that was a good deal.
(1) 4 GAUGE 20 FT RED POWER CABLE (HIGH QUALITY)
(1) 4 GAUGE 4 FT SUPER GOLD GROUND CABLE
(1) 35FT OF 12 GAUGE SPEAKER CABLE
(1) 20FT BLUE REMOTE TURN ON WIRE 16 GAUGE
Water resistant Fuse Holder
AGU Fuse included
2 Ring Terminal, 4Ga. ID:5/16"
2 Spade terminal, 4Ga. ID: 10#
5 Spade terminal, 14-16GA. ID: 8#
2 Butt.Conn. 14-16GA, red
1 Butt.Conn. 4GA, red
3 Self-tapping Screws
20 Cable Ties, 6"
5 black grommets
The price with shipping was about $25.00. I thought that was a good deal.
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What about for say 4 awg wire. What is a good price per foot?
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Originally posted by br()bert
wire is wire
wire is wire
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Originally posted by Damien00677
What about for say 4 awg wire. What is a good price per foot?
What about for say 4 awg wire. What is a good price per foot?
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wire is NOT wire, but at this level of systems, for the most part, it doesnt make a flip.
in the same diameter of wire, there can be large current flow characteristics, having to do with things like strand count and the way it's woven.
adam
in the same diameter of wire, there can be large current flow characteristics, having to do with things like strand count and the way it's woven.
adam
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Adam, wasn't the theory of "skin effect" (the theory about electrons flowing easier over thinner strands) just for AC current? And DC uses surface area, of which, a solid wire has the most surface area?
(For those I just confused, remember that speaker outputs are AC current... amp power/ground is DC)
As to the original question, I prefer buying power wire that's meant for car audio. But the most important wires are your preamp cords (aka "rca's" aka "patch cords"). Don't go cheap on those!! It'll ruin your whole system. And never run the power wires down the car next to the preamp cords.
(For those I just confused, remember that speaker outputs are AC current... amp power/ground is DC)
As to the original question, I prefer buying power wire that's meant for car audio. But the most important wires are your preamp cords (aka "rca's" aka "patch cords"). Don't go cheap on those!! It'll ruin your whole system. And never run the power wires down the car next to the preamp cords.
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Originally posted by TomP
Adam, wasn't the theory of "skin effect" (the theory about electrons flowing easier over thinner strands) just for AC current? And DC uses surface area, of which, a solid wire has the most surface area?
(For those I just confused, remember that speaker outputs are AC current... amp power/ground is DC)
As to the original question, I prefer buying power wire that's meant for car audio. But the most important wires are your preamp cords (aka "rca's" aka "patch cords"). Don't go cheap on those!! It'll ruin your whole system. And never run the power wires down the car next to the preamp cords.
Adam, wasn't the theory of "skin effect" (the theory about electrons flowing easier over thinner strands) just for AC current? And DC uses surface area, of which, a solid wire has the most surface area?
(For those I just confused, remember that speaker outputs are AC current... amp power/ground is DC)
As to the original question, I prefer buying power wire that's meant for car audio. But the most important wires are your preamp cords (aka "rca's" aka "patch cords"). Don't go cheap on those!! It'll ruin your whole system. And never run the power wires down the car next to the preamp cords.
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Originally posted by TomP
Adam, wasn't the theory of "skin effect" (the theory about electrons flowing easier over thinner strands) just for AC current?
Adam, wasn't the theory of "skin effect" (the theory about electrons flowing easier over thinner strands) just for AC current?
A higher strand count wire is a good thing, With a higher stand count you can get more copper in the same space (or cross section of wire) because there is less space wasted in the little gaps between the stands.
I’ve never hear a goods explanation of how the way it’s woven would have an effect on current flow characteristics and I can’t think of a way it would make a difference. Adam, do you have a link to someplace that has a good explanation of this. I’ve heard this before but never been able to back it up.
Last edited by NEEDAZ; 03-24-2004 at 07:44 AM.
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I would think a tighter weave would have a lower resistance, more copper in a given cross section.? Aneone else?
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Originally posted by Boomin Boy
a wire with many smaller strands would have more surface area over one single strand
a wire with many smaller strands would have more surface area over one single strand
At least that's what I've gotten out of that theory stuff anyway.
Here's a hell of a link that I found... from some old messages dated 2003 ... http://www.coloradok5.com/forums/sho.../o/all/fpart/1
The only reason I could think of a tighter weave having higher resistance would be a cooling effect; with less air, there'd be less cooling, so the wire might heat up- which increases resistance. That's probably a hell of a lot easier to prove on a thin wire than an 8 gauge!
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A little more on topic for Bebefouch, use welder cable and you’ll be golden. The rest of this discussion is more for fun, anyone would be hard pressed to be able to show the vary small difference that all this other stuff would play in. Would all of this make a difference, probably? Would you notice the difference, probable not?
Now, where is Jim’s input on this?
Now, where is Jim’s input on this?
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Heads-up for eBay wire
As a follow-up to my earlier post praising the cheap wire on eBay--- well, guess what? Once again I learn the hard way that you get what you pay for.
My "4 gauge" power & ground cables are really 6 gauge in a very thick plastic coating (so they appear to be 4-gauge until you look at the end)
My "4 gauge" power & ground cables are really 6 gauge in a very thick plastic coating (so they appear to be 4-gauge until you look at the end)
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That's no problem for me, because 6ga will work fine for my application.
The (supposedly 12 ga) speaker wire, however, is crap. It looks like monster cable when you look at it from the side, but when you look at the end you see that it is 16 gauge wire in the thickest plastic covering I've ever seen. What a rip.
(look at the very center of the pic just to the right of the twist-tie-- the end is sticking up towards the camera)
The (supposedly 12 ga) speaker wire, however, is crap. It looks like monster cable when you look at it from the side, but when you look at the end you see that it is 16 gauge wire in the thickest plastic covering I've ever seen. What a rip.
(look at the very center of the pic just to the right of the twist-tie-- the end is sticking up towards the camera)
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The real ripoff is that the wire actually says 12ga on it (and the power cable says 4ga). The picture above makes it look larger than it is. Believe me, I used my wire strippers on the end of it and it aint what it says it is!
And look at the cheapo pre-packaged dollar store box it all came in. Oh well, live and learn.
And look at the cheapo pre-packaged dollar store box it all came in. Oh well, live and learn.
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Wal-Mart sells real 4AWG complete amplifier kits for around $20... The only difference in RCA's that I can find is that the more expensive stuff has more plastic... so when its gets pinched you dont ruin the actual wire.
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br()bert wire is wire
Last edited by learsieglerZ'83; 03-31-2004 at 11:59 AM.
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PS..... 3rd product fromt he top...the RCAs. http://www.e-speakers.com/products/supra-cables.html
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If you get some decent RCA's... what is the little wire that comes off of the rcas? Is that a ground? or a ground-loop isolator or something like that? I was thinking of hooking it up... I have a *slight* whine in my amp, but I can probably fix it by re-grounding everything.
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Originally posted by ScrapMaker
If you get some decent RCA's... what is the little wire that comes off of the rcas? Is that a ground? or a ground-loop isolator or something like that? I was thinking of hooking it up... I have a *slight* whine in my amp, but I can probably fix it by re-grounding everything.
If you get some decent RCA's... what is the little wire that comes off of the rcas? Is that a ground? or a ground-loop isolator or something like that? I was thinking of hooking it up... I have a *slight* whine in my amp, but I can probably fix it by re-grounding everything.
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now this is gonna be the only time i recommend anything from walmart' stereo section (besides their metra install stuff). they've got 4ga wiring kits for around $25. 20 or 25 ft of 4ga power, fuse holder, remote wire, rca's (junk, but they work), and anything else to install an amp. best price you'll find, seeing as anything from ebay has additional shipping....
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wow that's really a good idea for the remote wire! I didn't actually notice that damned wire until the other day... But it didn't matter because I ran all my wires at the same time.... plus I don't want ANY 12volt power running near my RCA... (you have power interference)....
It becomes a pain in the *** when you have as many rcas as me...
front out
rear out
NF out
aux in
cd/aux in
I hooked up the aux, and cd/aux because I was planning on doing surround sound in the future, and my deck supports "dual zone" which you can make surround sound with.
It becomes a pain in the *** when you have as many rcas as me...
front out
rear out
NF out
aux in
cd/aux in
I hooked up the aux, and cd/aux because I was planning on doing surround sound in the future, and my deck supports "dual zone" which you can make surround sound with.
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Originally posted by learsieglerZ'83
This is true from a point of view of most, if now all of the people on TGO, with some exceptions obviously. using equiptment like rockford and pioneer you will not need to use a $600 set of RCAs, and yes there are more expensive. When you start getting into using equiptment with stats that would blow your mind, .005 THD on my buddies Brax for example, and when you have more money into the install it self than the equiptment and car is worth, then you should be looking into getting a high quality wire. Im using a very nice Zapco amp on my focal tweeters and when i switched from **** *** monster cable RCAs to my Stinger Dream series RCAs, there was a huge change in what i was listing to. I know absolutly none of that back ground hissing, which i think alone was worth the $60 i spent on the cable. So to conclude my essay......wire is not wire, if your into SQ car audio.
This is true from a point of view of most, if now all of the people on TGO, with some exceptions obviously. using equiptment like rockford and pioneer you will not need to use a $600 set of RCAs, and yes there are more expensive. When you start getting into using equiptment with stats that would blow your mind, .005 THD on my buddies Brax for example, and when you have more money into the install it self than the equiptment and car is worth, then you should be looking into getting a high quality wire. Im using a very nice Zapco amp on my focal tweeters and when i switched from **** *** monster cable RCAs to my Stinger Dream series RCAs, there was a huge change in what i was listing to. I know absolutly none of that back ground hissing, which i think alone was worth the $60 i spent on the cable. So to conclude my essay......wire is not wire, if your into SQ car audio.
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I bought a $90 4 awg installation kit from a local car audio place when I had my stereo in my Camaro, but when i put it in my winter beater I bought a $17 kit off ebay and it didn't sound as good. The wire in the $90 kit felt and looked to be far superior quality, and the wire strans were much smaller.
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If you believe the fact that "you get what you pay for" when you put parts into your engine.....why wouldnet you believe that you get what you pay for with power and ground wires??? Different wires do carry the current differently, a quality wire will carry the current better than your cheep-o walmart kit will.
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im telling you people....welding cable is the answer...its cheap and will carry lots of current. just isnt as pretty as some other wires
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Originally posted by Boomin Boy
im telling you people....welding cable is the answer...its cheap and will carry lots of current. just isnt as pretty as some other wires
im telling you people....welding cable is the answer...its cheap and will carry lots of current. just isnt as pretty as some other wires
Just the other day i was in bestbuy getting a dvd and i walked to the car audio section (like i always do, the "tech people" they have are idiots) and this kid was buying a (RF amp power wire with fuse holder) it came with a 12' 4 ga wire and a fuse holder, thats it. FOR $80!!!!
Sometimes i wonder wtf people are smoking!
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i'm sorry guys, but the idea that one 4ga wire carries a DC signal different than another is just flat wrong. skin effect has nothing to do with your power wire, neither does it have to do with any wire carrying an audio signal (be it interconnects or speaker wires). the most important things to look for in power wire is flexibility (meaning higher strand count) and a jacket that is resistant to possible underhood chemicals (which 99% of wiring kits and welding cable are). strand count only deals with flexibility. oxygen-free copper strands is better because its supposed to resist corrosion better, but its necessity is almost debatable. oh, and most cables contain OFC anyway, so another thing to not really worry about. if 2 different cables carry power from your battery to your amps differently, then one of those two cables is broken.
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oxygen-free copper strands is better because
Oxygen oxidizes(sp?) the copper. Ever look at new copper pipes? Nice and shiny, then take a look at some old ones.
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understandable. but if a section of copper wire is covered by its jacket, is there much (if any) oxygen getting to it? i have played with my father's stereo thats older than i am (30+ yrs), and the only part of the cable thats been affected is all of 1/2" from where its been stripped......
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Originally posted by CAMp3RO
understandable. but if a section of copper wire is covered by its jacket, is there much (if any) oxygen getting to it? i have played with my father's stereo thats older than i am (30+ yrs), and the only part of the cable thats been affected is all of 1/2" from where its been stripped......
understandable. but if a section of copper wire is covered by its jacket, is there much (if any) oxygen getting to it? i have played with my father's stereo thats older than i am (30+ yrs), and the only part of the cable thats been affected is all of 1/2" from where its been stripped......
I think is more of a marketting gimmick, print a logo on a shiny thick wire coating and all of a sudden people think its better.
I rewired my whole house, i have no gas service, EVERYTHING is electric. I dont remember using any shiny red cable anyplace. Just an assorment (sp?) of ga wires that were all dull and stiff. For power, wire is wire as long as you get the correct size.
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oh, and i feel like i gotta reply to the rca comments left earlier too. the only thing that your rca's should be doing in your home or car besides sending music from your preamp to your power amp is rejecting noise. not coloring the sound, etc. a decently made one (you can make top quality ones at home for under $50 too) will not change the sound. again, if it does, its broken.
the mentality is that if i spend $1000 on a system, $100 doesnt seem to be a bad investment on wiring. if i spend $10,000 on a system, $1000 for wiring seems feasible. how much can truely change between a $50 cable and a $500 cable? get cables that are flexible, properly shielded (when necessary), soldered well and correctly, and maybe even look pretty. there are plenty of measurable specs, but they should never be audible if properly constructed.
can anyone tell i've become more of a DIY audio guy.....(having fun yet Jim?)
the mentality is that if i spend $1000 on a system, $100 doesnt seem to be a bad investment on wiring. if i spend $10,000 on a system, $1000 for wiring seems feasible. how much can truely change between a $50 cable and a $500 cable? get cables that are flexible, properly shielded (when necessary), soldered well and correctly, and maybe even look pretty. there are plenty of measurable specs, but they should never be audible if properly constructed.
can anyone tell i've become more of a DIY audio guy.....(having fun yet Jim?)
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I may be mistaken but don't electrons only run on the outside of a wire like a train? therefore wouldn't having more wire per sq/cm be better? Also wouldn't an oxygen free evviroment be better for a wire since electricty and oxygen will cause oxydation to form quicker?
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Originally posted by Fei
I may be mistaken but don't electrons only run on the outside of a wire like a train? therefore wouldn't having more wire per sq/cm be better? Also wouldn't an oxygen free evviroment be better for a wire since electricty and oxygen will cause oxydation to form quicker?
I may be mistaken but don't electrons only run on the outside of a wire like a train? therefore wouldn't having more wire per sq/cm be better? Also wouldn't an oxygen free evviroment be better for a wire since electricty and oxygen will cause oxydation to form quicker?
I may be mistaken but don't electrons only run on the outside of a wire
Also wouldn't an oxygen free evviroment be better for a wire since electricty and oxygen will cause oxydation to form quicker?
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Originally posted by ScrapMaker
wow that's really a good idea for the remote wire! I didn't actually notice that damned wire until the other day... But it didn't matter because I ran all my wires at the same time.... plus I don't want ANY 12volt power running near my RCA... (you have power interference)....
wow that's really a good idea for the remote wire! I didn't actually notice that damned wire until the other day... But it didn't matter because I ran all my wires at the same time.... plus I don't want ANY 12volt power running near my RCA... (you have power interference)....
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Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
but if I was a lazy car audio installer, and I had a ground-loop isolator, then I could use that little combined remote wire. Then I could call myself an expert and write a book on car audio.
#45
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Car: 1999 Chevy Cavalier
Engine: 2.2
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: it's part of the transmission
If you believe the fact that "you get what you pay for" when you put parts into your engine.....why wouldnet you believe that you get what you pay for with power and ground wires??? Different wires do carry the current differently, a quality wire will carry the current better than your cheep-o walmart kit will.
I had a guy at a stereo shop tell me that he was out of ground wire, so I would have to come back in two days....
I said, "that's ok, I'll take 20ft of that 'clear blue' 8awg..."
he said.."That's only for the positive wire, we use the black wire for the ground".....
There is no 'power wire' infact, electrons flow from the negative side of a DC circuit....but that's besides the point.
If you get what you pay for, then I have a huge bundle of 4awg welding cable I'll sell you for $200. I think it's about 50 feet.
Do you realize how much audio shops mark up thier merchanidise?
I can make a great pair of RCA's with a drill, 18awg or similar wire, a soldering iron and a set of RCA plugs. or ordinary shielded wiring.
#46
Originally posted by br()bert
wire is wire
wire is wire
Road Gear,Scorche, etc. All work fine to me! I have used all
kinds of amps. THAT'S where it makes the difference!
Wire is wire. As long as it's routed properly, you will have
no problems!
Also, Power and Ground wire are the same! Just use
different colors to determine which one goes where!
You can use red for ground and black for power, as long
as it's connected right! All ground wire does is complete
the path of resistance in the circuit. Point A to point B.
You can use either colors. But it would make sense to
at least use red for power to not get confused.
As far as quality of wire goes, the CONNECTIONS are
more important than the wiring itself. Using platinum
or gold plated connectors hold up better than regular
bare metal connectors. But, 99% of amp kits and RCA
kits are already plated with gold or platinum.
Last edited by Camaro_nut; 04-10-2004 at 05:16 PM.
#47
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Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: sbc 400
Transmission: th350
platinum is actually pretty bad for connections (only about 1/2 as good as copper), but people like bling bling, so......
but i digress
but i digress
#49
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Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Yeah i posted it, i still cant believe they are actually made! They look like such a joke
#50
Originally posted by CAMp3RO
platinum is actually pretty bad for connections (only about 1/2 as good as copper), but people like bling bling, so......
but i digress
platinum is actually pretty bad for connections (only about 1/2 as good as copper), but people like bling bling, so......
but i digress
gold plated would be best. That's like on every kit that
I had bought. I hate "bling". The sound of the stereo is
better than the way the system looks. But to some people,
they like the neon lights and all that crap.