like my subs?
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like my subs?
what do you guys think of these subs?
http://www.polkaudio.com/car/specs.php?name=gnx104
http://www.polkaudio.com/car/specs.php?name=gnx104
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Re: like my subs?
Originally posted by OutLaw305
what do you guys think of these subs?
http://www.polkaudio.com/car/specs.php?name=gnx104
what do you guys think of these subs?
http://www.polkaudio.com/car/specs.php?name=gnx104
how does it sound?
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i do like em, one of the reasons i got polk is because ive heard a lot about their quility of sound. I wasnt looking for crazy bass when i got em.. ( but why did i buy 3... cause im 18 ) nothing so deep ya hit the brown note. Just enough to make my presence known. Wish my engine did that for me. O well, summer is just around the corner.
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
i do like em, one of the reasons i got polk is because ive heard a lot about their quility of sound. I wasnt looking for crazy bass when i got em.. ( but why did i buy 3... cause im 18 ) nothing so deep ya hit the brown note. Just enough to make my presence known. Wish my engine did that for me. O well, summer is just around the corner.
i do like em, one of the reasons i got polk is because ive heard a lot about their quility of sound. I wasnt looking for crazy bass when i got em.. ( but why did i buy 3... cause im 18 ) nothing so deep ya hit the brown note. Just enough to make my presence known. Wish my engine did that for me. O well, summer is just around the corner.
my guess is if you're only 18, you'll get addicted to car audio when you hear your first loud system and you'll begin upgrading. Im 19 now and ive been through probably 30 subs and close to 20 amps
Last edited by Boomin Boy; 01-22-2004 at 02:01 AM.
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Very good choice. They seem to be pretty efficient, and can handle a decent amount of power.
As much as people sometimes don't want to believe it, 175 watts continuous is quite a bit of power, and with an SPL of 93 dB @ 1w/1m, that's ~118-119 dB of clean, constant music.
And as long as they please YOUR ears, that's all that matters.
BTW, what amp are you using?
As much as people sometimes don't want to believe it, 175 watts continuous is quite a bit of power, and with an SPL of 93 dB @ 1w/1m, that's ~118-119 dB of clean, constant music.
And as long as they please YOUR ears, that's all that matters.
BTW, what amp are you using?
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BTW, what amp are you using?
Right now i got a sony xplode (sigh) 1600 powering the 3. It seems to do a good job, but i feel it is lacking a bit. I was thinkg of tryin to sell it and get an mtx.
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3???
Those are 4 ohm speakers.
1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 3/4
3/4 = 1.33 ohms
That Sony amp can do that???
I think you either need to loose one of the subs, or get an amp that can handle that low of a load..... like this Kenwood.
200 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms
400 watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms
500 watts RMS x 1 @ 1 ohm
Those are 4 ohm speakers.
1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 3/4
3/4 = 1.33 ohms
That Sony amp can do that???
I think you either need to loose one of the subs, or get an amp that can handle that low of a load..... like this Kenwood.
200 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms
400 watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms
500 watts RMS x 1 @ 1 ohm
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ok because i really dont know about sytems and how power is supposed to divided up and all that jazz... what would i be better of getting in terms of a new amp, or should i say 2 new amps? I really dont know squat bout ohms. Somebody help me out here. What do you mean about 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4
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Wow, boomin boy your only 19! No offense or anything, but sometimes you respond as if your the goddess of car audio, and you know anything and everything that has to do with car audio. Why did you go through that many subs and amps, and whats the total in money you've wasted on all them? How many have you blown of each? I'm curios, thats all.
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Originally posted by cronsformula350
Wow, boomin boy your only 19! No offense or anything, but sometimes you respond as if your the goddess of car audio, and you know anything and everything that has to do with car audio. Why did you go through that many subs and amps, and whats the total in money you've wasted on all them? How many have you blown of each? I'm curios, thats all.
Wow, boomin boy your only 19! No offense or anything, but sometimes you respond as if your the goddess of car audio, and you know anything and everything that has to do with car audio. Why did you go through that many subs and amps, and whats the total in money you've wasted on all them? How many have you blown of each? I'm curios, thats all.
blown subs-ummm ive blown my adire tempest...but i was competing with it so you always try to push the limits. no biggie its still under warranty
total money-oh jeez this is going to be depressing...in 5 or 6 years ive gone through 16 subs and 11 sub amps of my own
subs-2 HSL excursion 12s, 2 JBL decade 10s, CV stroker 12, eclipse aluminum 12s, DDw6.5s, orion hcca 15s, 2 alpine type r 15s at different times, adire tempest, and RE 18HCs
sub amps-4 us amps vlx400s, sony explode xm2100 (i think), earthquake shredder (d2), us acoustics 2100, 2 JBL 1200.1s, PPI 4800, viper 2500d
speakers- the only ones i paid for were some explode 6X9's and my cadence components, ive had good luck buying cars with good speakers in them
speaker amps-us acoustics 4085, kenwood 648s, arc 2100
head units-cheap sony POS, alpine 7893, alpine 7838, some panasonic garbage
made my own rcas, dist blocks, and terminals...and got my 1/0 gauge for free
subs-probably about $4500ish CDN
sub amps-$10800CDN
speakers-$400CDN
speaker amps-$800CDN
head units-$720CDN
wiring-$30CDN
total=$17250
sounds like a big number but its over a span of 5 or 6 years. I know lots of people who spend more than that on performance for their cars, im not really into that
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i never claimed to be the *** of car audio...if i have any input on a thread ill post it. Ive learned quite a bit in the last few years about the industry through people teaching me. I was a newbie once too. Still pretty much am in the whole scheme of things.
this board seems to be fairly performance bases with less people focusing on car audio. If you want to see some really smart audio people go to termpro forum or caraudioforum
i dont think my age makes any difference as to the quality and the accuracy of my posts
this board seems to be fairly performance bases with less people focusing on car audio. If you want to see some really smart audio people go to termpro forum or caraudioforum
i dont think my age makes any difference as to the quality and the accuracy of my posts
#12
I've never heard those subs, but one thing that I like about them is the high sensitivity. So many beginners drop a ton of cash on mega-excursion small-box subs, not realizing that unless you give them 1200 watts each, they just don't get loud. Those polks will work well with modest amounts of power, which is a damned good thing unless you're planning on coughing up the big money for big amps.
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I hope youve got some of that money back from entering comps, and selling the stuff you didnt like. Plz tell me...Spending 17000 on car audio on not getting anything back would be rediculous.
Nate
Nate
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Originally posted by ddn69
I hope youve got some of that money back from entering comps, and selling the stuff you didnt like. Plz tell me...Spending 17000 on car audio on not getting anything back would be rediculous.
Nate
I hope youve got some of that money back from entering comps, and selling the stuff you didnt like. Plz tell me...Spending 17000 on car audio on not getting anything back would be rediculous.
Nate
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Originally posted by ddn69
I hope youve got some of that money back from entering comps, and selling the stuff you didnt like. Plz tell me...Spending 17000 on car audio on not getting anything back would be rediculous.
Nate
I hope youve got some of that money back from entering comps, and selling the stuff you didnt like. Plz tell me...Spending 17000 on car audio on not getting anything back would be rediculous.
Nate
as FyreLance said, some people get enjoyment back from car audio...i havent built an all out competition setup yet. I wouldnt even consider the setup im working on now an all out competition setup.
go down to the drag strip and there are people spending hundreds of thousands on their cars and they rarely get anything back other than a quarter mile time
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yes thats a good point too. One could spend far lass than 17,000 on a system, just by researching the speaker components and seeing how they work in other peoples cars. Rather than testing a bunch of woofers/amps and shelving them. I spent just over 600$ on my cav stereo and running 560 watts rms, and it sounds amazing, the previous owner of my firebird spent over 1100$ on that stereo and is running 75 watts rms into infinity kappas and in SQ my cav and Formula stereo is the same, except the bass in the cav would destroy the Formulas.
I agree with the fact that you don't need to spend mucho dinero on subs and amps to have tons of bass, thats silly and for people that have lots of money to waste.
I agree with the fact that you don't need to spend mucho dinero on subs and amps to have tons of bass, thats silly and for people that have lots of money to waste.
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Originally posted by cronsformula350
yes thats a good point too. One could spend far lass than 17,000 on a system, just by researching the speaker components and seeing how they work in other peoples cars. Rather than testing a bunch of woofers/amps and shelving them. I spent just over 600$ on my cav stereo and running 560 watts rms, and it sounds amazing, the previous owner of my firebird spent over 1100$ on that stereo and is running 75 watts rms into infinity kappas and in SQ my cav and Formula stereo is the same, except the bass in the cav would destroy the Formulas.
I agree with the fact that you don't need to spend mucho dinero on subs and amps to have tons of bass, thats silly and for people that have lots of money to waste.
yes thats a good point too. One could spend far lass than 17,000 on a system, just by researching the speaker components and seeing how they work in other peoples cars. Rather than testing a bunch of woofers/amps and shelving them. I spent just over 600$ on my cav stereo and running 560 watts rms, and it sounds amazing, the previous owner of my firebird spent over 1100$ on that stereo and is running 75 watts rms into infinity kappas and in SQ my cav and Formula stereo is the same, except the bass in the cav would destroy the Formulas.
I agree with the fact that you don't need to spend mucho dinero on subs and amps to have tons of bass, thats silly and for people that have lots of money to waste.
Ive researched everything ive ever bought, even the explode 6X9's when i was 14...mind you i didnt understand the difference between max and rms wattages so i considered paying $70 for 150 watt speakers a steal
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
ok because i really dont know about sytems and how power is supposed to divided up and all that jazz... what would i be better of getting in terms of a new amp, or should i say 2 new amps? I really dont know squat bout ohms. Somebody help me out here. What do you mean about 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4
ok because i really dont know about sytems and how power is supposed to divided up and all that jazz... what would i be better of getting in terms of a new amp, or should i say 2 new amps? I really dont know squat bout ohms. Somebody help me out here. What do you mean about 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4
If you have two 4 ohm subs and wire them in parallel (“+” to “+” and “-” to “-”) you just divide the resistance by 2.
4 ÷ 2 = 2 ohms
If you run them in series ( “+” of #1 to the amp, then the “-” of #1 to “+” of #2, then “-“ of the #2 back to “-“ on the amp) you just add the two.
4 + 4 = 8 ohms
If you want to run four 4 ohm subs, you can do a series/parallel configuration to keep the resistance at 4 ohms at the amp. Too difficult to describe in words.
But when you have an odd number of subs in parrallel, the only way to correctly find the resistance is to use this formula (I’ll right it down since we can’t use fractions on this site.)
1 over “x”, plus 1 over “x”, plus 1 over “x”, equals 1 over “x”
But it really looks like the pic I attached.
So you add.... 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 = 3/4 or .75
But since you divided 1 by the number of ohms, you have to divide 1 by the sum also.
1 ÷ .75 = 1.33----
That’s the resistance the amp sees.
Here's the pic of the formula...
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Originally posted by Boomin Boy
i say run your subs in parallel off of a JBL 600.1
i say run your subs in parallel off of a JBL 600.1
Is that amp stable down to 1.33 ohms impedance???
No.
I’ve read other threads of yours and have come to the conclusion that you’re the typical “know it all - teenager”. STFU unless you are really trying to help people. Showing the size of your ********* is only good for people who want to break their back windows with gobs of bass. It doesn't help someone who's only looking for a good, reliable system.
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Originally posted by AJ_92RS
You just proved your idiosyncrasy right there
Is that amp stable down to 1.33 ohms impedance???
No.
I’ve read other threads of yours and have come to the conclusion that you’re the typical “know it all - teenager”. STFU unless you are really trying to help people. Showing the size of your ********* is only good for people who want to break their back windows with gobs of bass. It doesn't help someone who's only looking for a good, reliable system.
You just proved your idiosyncrasy right there
Is that amp stable down to 1.33 ohms impedance???
No.
I’ve read other threads of yours and have come to the conclusion that you’re the typical “know it all - teenager”. STFU unless you are really trying to help people. Showing the size of your ********* is only good for people who want to break their back windows with gobs of bass. It doesn't help someone who's only looking for a good, reliable system.
thanks for comin out
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you seem to be a bit embarrassed so ill do the work for you
manual from a JBL 1200.1 sitting right in front of me
"BP150.1, BP300.1, BP600.1, BP1200.1
...The total impedence of the speaker systems connected to a BP series amplifier must be atleast 1 ohm."
manual from a JBL 1200.1 sitting right in front of me
"BP150.1, BP300.1, BP600.1, BP1200.1
...The total impedence of the speaker systems connected to a BP series amplifier must be atleast 1 ohm."
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High sensitivity levels also mean that there going to be more efficient, and play louder at lower volume levels! That is one benefit to running a ported box/bandpass. When you have a vented box, the bass is louder at lower power levels than a sealed box. That is partially why when you build a box for a woofer, you want to run a woofer with a magnet of at least 40 oz to work well in a sealed box, now if it was a vented box you could get away with a smaller magnet woofer, because it doesn't have to work as hard to move the air.
There are also these things called Scan-Speak Aperiodic vents, that help reduce the amount of maximum impedence in sealed boxes by at least 50%. Which results in clearer, better defined bass with more amplifier power and woofer control into the lower frequencies.
There are also these things called Scan-Speak Aperiodic vents, that help reduce the amount of maximum impedence in sealed boxes by at least 50%. Which results in clearer, better defined bass with more amplifier power and woofer control into the lower frequencies.
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Originally posted by cronsformula350
Wow, boomin boy your only 19! No offense or anything, but sometimes you respond as if your the goddess of car audio, and you know anything and everything that has to do with car audio.
Wow, boomin boy your only 19! No offense or anything, but sometimes you respond as if your the goddess of car audio, and you know anything and everything that has to do with car audio.
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Originally posted by cronsformula350
High sensitivity levels also mean that there going to be more efficient, and play louder at lower volume levels! That is one benefit to running a ported box/bandpass. When you have a vented box, the bass is louder at lower power levels than a sealed box. That is partially why when you build a box for a woofer, you want to run a woofer with a magnet of at least 40 oz to work well in a sealed box, now if it was a vented box you could get away with a smaller magnet woofer, because it doesn't have to work as hard to move the air.
There are also these things called Scan-Speak Aperiodic vents, that help reduce the amount of maximum impedence in sealed boxes by at least 50%. Which results in clearer, better defined bass with more amplifier power and woofer control into the lower frequencies.
High sensitivity levels also mean that there going to be more efficient, and play louder at lower volume levels! That is one benefit to running a ported box/bandpass. When you have a vented box, the bass is louder at lower power levels than a sealed box. That is partially why when you build a box for a woofer, you want to run a woofer with a magnet of at least 40 oz to work well in a sealed box, now if it was a vented box you could get away with a smaller magnet woofer, because it doesn't have to work as hard to move the air.
There are also these things called Scan-Speak Aperiodic vents, that help reduce the amount of maximum impedence in sealed boxes by at least 50%. Which results in clearer, better defined bass with more amplifier power and woofer control into the lower frequencies.
some pyramids have pretty large magnets
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Originally posted by Boomin Boy
magnet size means nothing for woofer performance...its the motor structure that you want to look at
some pyramids have pretty large magnets
magnet size means nothing for woofer performance...its the motor structure that you want to look at
some pyramids have pretty large magnets
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Magnet size has alot to do with how a woofer performs, motor structure is important too, but you need both to perform. Passive radiators use a motor structure and they don't prodcuce bass. A magnet is needed to produce bass. A strong magnet is important in making the driver perform well and make strong bass, put a 20 0z magnet woofer in a sealed box designed for a woofer with a 78oz magnet and see how it performs, then tell me that magnet size doesn't matter.
I beg to differ.
I beg to differ.
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Originally posted by cronsformula350
Magnet size has alot to do with how a woofer performs, motor structure is important too, but you need both to perform. Passive radiators use a motor structure and they don't prodcuce bass. A magnet is needed to produce bass. A strong magnet is important in making the driver perform well and make strong bass, put a 20 0z magnet woofer in a sealed box designed for a woofer with a 78oz magnet and see how it performs, then tell me that magnet size doesn't matter.
I beg to differ.
Magnet size has alot to do with how a woofer performs, motor structure is important too, but you need both to perform. Passive radiators use a motor structure and they don't prodcuce bass. A magnet is needed to produce bass. A strong magnet is important in making the driver perform well and make strong bass, put a 20 0z magnet woofer in a sealed box designed for a woofer with a 78oz magnet and see how it performs, then tell me that magnet size doesn't matter.
I beg to differ.
http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthr...ht=magnet+size
ive never heard about designing a sealed enclosure around how much the magnet ways that doesnt make much sense to me. It would make sense, however, that subs that perform better in large ported boxes are those with strong motor structures because there is less pressure inside the box to be released; more has to be done by the woofer itself
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Originally posted by Boomin Boy
you seem to be a bit embarrassed so ill do the work for you
manual from a JBL 1200.1 sitting right in front of me
"BP150.1, BP300.1, BP600.1, BP1200.1
...The total impedence of the speaker systems connected to a BP series amplifier must be atleast 1 ohm."
you seem to be a bit embarrassed so ill do the work for you
manual from a JBL 1200.1 sitting right in front of me
"BP150.1, BP300.1, BP600.1, BP1200.1
...The total impedence of the speaker systems connected to a BP series amplifier must be atleast 1 ohm."
And yes, you're right, it does say that. The thing is, I didn't say it would blow up. I said it's not stable.
How do I know? Show me an estimated output at 1 ohm. They don't show one. Don't they have enough confidence to show the wattage or THD% at 1 ohm???
And you're also right about me not having experience with JBL. I've never had enough confidence in them to buy anything of theirs based on what I've heard with my own ears.
I guess part of the problem is I just got done reading a few of your other posts, and your view is narrow.
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Originally posted by AJ_92RS
Embarrased?? Hardly. I just had to go pick up my son from school. I do have a life other than producing 150 dB.
And yes, you're right, it does say that. The thing is, I didn't say it would blow up. I said it's not stable.
How do I know? Show me an estimated output at 1 ohm. They don't show one. Don't they have enough confidence to show the wattage or THD% at 1 ohm???
And you're also right about me not having experience with JBL. I've never had enough confidence in them to buy anything of theirs based on what I've heard with my own ears.
I guess part of the problem is I just got done reading a few of your other posts, and your view is narrow.
Embarrased?? Hardly. I just had to go pick up my son from school. I do have a life other than producing 150 dB.
And yes, you're right, it does say that. The thing is, I didn't say it would blow up. I said it's not stable.
How do I know? Show me an estimated output at 1 ohm. They don't show one. Don't they have enough confidence to show the wattage or THD% at 1 ohm???
And you're also right about me not having experience with JBL. I've never had enough confidence in them to buy anything of theirs based on what I've heard with my own ears.
I guess part of the problem is I just got done reading a few of your other posts, and your view is narrow.
how is my view narrow?
#33
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ok because i really dont know about sytems and how power is supposed to divided up and all that jazz... what would i be better of getting in terms of a new amp, or should i say 2 new amps? I really dont know squat bout ohms. Somebody help me out here. What do you mean about 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4
before this gets to far and my thread gets locked up...
Aj,
thanks for that post about the resitances. I understand the hwo the formula works now, but remember your talking to somebody that doesnt really undestand how the ohms come into play. So im runnin 1.33 ohms into my amp or out of my amp? And how does that play into the power of my subs? Would i be better off having 2 amps so that the work could be split up or can i do it using one amp? Because of the 1.33 ohms, i take it it means little resistance?, does that mean the amp couldnt handle it? i am really confused there.
I know theres a lot to answer here and thanks for all of your guys help ( i mean everybody ) and hopefully someone besides me can benifit from this post.
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
Guys everything on this site doesnt have to end up in people flaming each other...
before this gets to far and my thread gets locked up...
Aj,
thanks for that post about the resitances. I understand the hwo the formula works now, but remember your talking to somebody that doesnt really undestand how the ohms come into play. So im runnin 1.33 ohms into my amp or out of my amp? And how does that play into the power of my subs? Would i be better off having 2 amps so that the work could be split up or can i do it using one amp? Because of the 1.33 ohms, i take it it means little resistance?, does that mean the amp couldnt handle it? i am really confused there.
I know theres a lot to answer here and thanks for all of your guys help ( i mean everybody ) and hopefully someone besides me can benifit from this post.
Guys everything on this site doesnt have to end up in people flaming each other...
before this gets to far and my thread gets locked up...
Aj,
thanks for that post about the resitances. I understand the hwo the formula works now, but remember your talking to somebody that doesnt really undestand how the ohms come into play. So im runnin 1.33 ohms into my amp or out of my amp? And how does that play into the power of my subs? Would i be better off having 2 amps so that the work could be split up or can i do it using one amp? Because of the 1.33 ohms, i take it it means little resistance?, does that mean the amp couldnt handle it? i am really confused there.
I know theres a lot to answer here and thanks for all of your guys help ( i mean everybody ) and hopefully someone besides me can benifit from this post.
running 2 smaller amps will be harder on your electrical system and make setting your gains more difficult
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ok that settles that. So then, how many watts should i be looking at for the 3 subs? my 1600 xplode ( erg... d*mn xplode ) seems to do ok, but im guessing its a little underpowered?
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
ok that settles that. So then, how many watts should i be looking at for the 3 subs? my 1600 xplode ( erg... d*mn xplode ) seems to do ok, but im guessing its a little underpowered?
ok that settles that. So then, how many watts should i be looking at for the 3 subs? my 1600 xplode ( erg... d*mn xplode ) seems to do ok, but im guessing its a little underpowered?
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so wait, if im putting out 1600 watts on that xplode amp.. should i be fine? or would the resistance not be good for that amp?
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
so wait, if im putting out 1600 watts on that xplode amp.. should i be fine? or would the resistance not be good for that amp?
so wait, if im putting out 1600 watts on that xplode amp.. should i be fine? or would the resistance not be good for that amp?
#39
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maybe im mistaken, its a sony 1600. i guess that not the watts ( heh, what a newbie mistake ) if you need any other info ill have to look it up online, im off at college and wont be home for another week
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
maybe im mistaken, its a sony 1600. i guess that not the watts ( heh, what a newbie mistake ) if you need any other info ill have to look it up online, im off at college and wont be home for another week
maybe im mistaken, its a sony 1600. i guess that not the watts ( heh, what a newbie mistake ) if you need any other info ill have to look it up online, im off at college and wont be home for another week
is this it??
that thing is supposed to put out 1000rms @2ohms...but isnt stable any lower. I doubt it puts out rated power too.
i hate to say it but you would probably have to buy a new amp for this setup
600 true clean watts is better than 1000 overrated dirty watts with the amp shutting off going into protection after 10 minutes.
if you used your current amp, it would probably get quite hot to the touch, go into protection mode because its being run under its recommended impedence level, and it might even blow the whole amp.
mind you in the past i had an explode amp and ran it at 1/4 ohm for a long time when it was only 2 ohm stable and it lasted for a while until it blew
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yeah thats the one... kinda misleading that it says 1600w. grr. Can you give me a few good example of an amp that would really let this system shine?
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
yeah thats the one... kinda misleading that it says 1600w. grr. Can you give me a few good example of an amp that would really let this system shine?
yeah thats the one... kinda misleading that it says 1600w. grr. Can you give me a few good example of an amp that would really let this system shine?
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wow, hrm... didnt even think about money, ha. im guessing i wanna go in a 300 give or take range
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Originally posted by OutLaw305
wow, hrm... didnt even think about money, ha. im guessing i wanna go in a 300 give or take range
wow, hrm... didnt even think about money, ha. im guessing i wanna go in a 300 give or take range
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=18797
this is a pretty good deal though, many competitors used this amps at world finals this year. a very cheap source of power. Might look a bit off if your car isnt red though
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Visonik is complete junk. I found out the hard way.
I gave you the link to that Kenwood amp earlier. It's $200 and Kenwood has a long standing name in durability.
Evidently you missed the link so here it is again. And you don't have to worry about getting punk'd by some zit face on Egay
http://www.nowonsale.com/ppf/pCatID/...D/itempage.asp
BTW, just so you know what a good price that is, here it is on another "well known" site.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7vKmhUW...p?i=113KAC8151
I gave you the link to that Kenwood amp earlier. It's $200 and Kenwood has a long standing name in durability.
Evidently you missed the link so here it is again. And you don't have to worry about getting punk'd by some zit face on Egay
http://www.nowonsale.com/ppf/pCatID/...D/itempage.asp
BTW, just so you know what a good price that is, here it is on another "well known" site.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7vKmhUW...p?i=113KAC8151
Last edited by AJ_92RS; 01-22-2004 at 09:46 PM.
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i saw that kenwood in a Mickey Shore by me ( a local car audio store... ) and for 199, thats a hell of a deal. Thanks a lot guys. i think im going to go with that amp. Anybody got anything else before i go ahead n do that?
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Finally, you understand what I'm talking about boomin boy!
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Originally posted by AJ_92RS
Visonik is complete junk. I found out the hard way.
I gave you the link to that Kenwood amp earlier. It's $200 and Kenwood has a long standing name in durability.
Evidently you missed the link so here it is again. And you don't have to worry about getting punk'd by some zit face on Egay
http://www.nowonsale.com/ppf/pCatID/...D/itempage.asp
BTW, just so you know what a good price that is, here it is on another "well known" site.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7vKmhUW...p?i=113KAC8151
Visonik is complete junk. I found out the hard way.
I gave you the link to that Kenwood amp earlier. It's $200 and Kenwood has a long standing name in durability.
Evidently you missed the link so here it is again. And you don't have to worry about getting punk'd by some zit face on Egay
http://www.nowonsale.com/ppf/pCatID/...D/itempage.asp
BTW, just so you know what a good price that is, here it is on another "well known" site.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7vKmhUW...p?i=113KAC8151
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Pulling out those ********* again.
Do you ever shut up?!?!?!
Kenwood doesn't HAVE to prove themselves by winning some "we can make our products damage your ears even more" award.
They're a strong company that builds quality products.
Do you ever shut up?!?!?!
Kenwood doesn't HAVE to prove themselves by winning some "we can make our products damage your ears even more" award.
They're a strong company that builds quality products.
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boomin boy,
have you ever used a visonik amp? after lookin at specs and all else, i think that visonik would be the better choice. heck, for all it can do more, 20 bucks is nothing
have you ever used a visonik amp? after lookin at specs and all else, i think that visonik would be the better choice. heck, for all it can do more, 20 bucks is nothing