CAMp3RO

well, since everyone always asks about it, and i finally have it out of the car (because i'm building a new box), i figured i do a few measurements. this box is for a 12" sub and will fit in the bottom half of the well. it is around a cu ft inside, but i'm not perfect. keep in mind, this is not all of the box schematics, but instead what you need to build one yourself. i have listed the dimentions of the bottom piece and the dimentions of the top of the box. the top of the box is slightly differently shaped in my car, strictly for visual reasons. well, here ya go. any additional questions (besides what are the exact sizes of the other pieces) i'd be happy to answer.

CAMp3RO

a pic of what the box looks like (slightly different, but you get the idea)

Jose'sRedTA

For some time now i have wanted to build a box in the lower portion of the rear well for a single sub and amp. You say I can fit a 12inch sub in here? Great...Can i also mount my amp on top of the box? I'm trying to picture how it would look in my 87' TA and the box i was going to build was going to look and be flush with surrounding interior pieces. I that how yours is or does it sit just in the smaller recess of the well? What setup were you using in that box...i'm thinking of a JL 250/1 amp and a 12w3v2 or 10w2v2...any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks...

CAMp3RO

if you check out my link, you should see how it was used. i specifically made this box to fit a 12" sub (thats why it looks a lot like a key in the pics). just barley fit the basket of the Type-R. i also mounted the amp on top of the box until i built the rear seat amp rack (which is also waiting to go in the car). the top of the box is flush with the bottom of the well, however if an amp is on it, the amp will not be.

Badazz85TA

This mite be stupid of me asking (im kind of new to the stereo area) but what kind of wood did u use? And how much does it cost? and what tools did u use?
Thnx

CAMp3RO

wood is 3/4 mdf (only stuff you should use for boxes besides fiberglass), but had to use 1/2 in in some places just because i ran out of the 3/4. used a table saw, drill. make sure to use some sort of respirator when cutting this stuff, very bad to inhale. wood glue and some screws. thats it. i'm building another at the moment and its only costing me about $20.

Badazz85TA

Thnx!!!!!

Captain C

How tight is the fit on the 6 1/2" speakers in the door panel? I need to do that on my Camaro. Will I need some spacers to clear anything?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Can you fit more than one 12" sub in that box?

CAMp3RO

well, the door speakers i did were lazy, but i just wanted them in. i barely fit them with a 3/4" ring to move them out a bit. i also have power windows, so thats where i ran into problems.

that box only has enough airspace (barely) for one 12". if you try two, it wont sound good and may damage the subs.

Captain C

I have power windows too, so I don't want to do that.... Really didn't want to cut my door panels anyway.

Another thought was mount them in the dash, through the top of the dash itself to gain space. I hate ruining a dash and I really don't like exposing the speakers to the sun, albeit I could probably run some silk across the top of the speaker before I snap the grill on..... The dash mat would hide any serious uglies of the cutting…….

Do you think a single 10" sub would work good in your box???

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

What if I were to put in a couple of 2" ports? Would two 12"s fit then? I know that the necessary airspace decreases with ports. Or maybe 2 10"s?

CAMp3RO

there is not enough space in there to have a ported 12" sub. like i said before, there is just enough room for a sealed 12", and ported boxes need to be quite a bit bigger than a sealed. if i remember correctly, there is at most in there 1 cu ft. you may be able to put in 2 10s, but i dont know how much space they need. deffinately wont be able to port them. i'm working on a single 12" ported box right now and its taking up pretty much all of the well doing it correctly (need around 2.0-2.5 cu ft before displacement of sub and port).

9177

Keep in mind the space needed even for a small ported box is big. For the box I plan to build this winter It will be a 1.5 cu ft box tuned to 26 htz with 21 sq inces of port. Total box volum just under 3 cubic feet. There are a handfull of small box 10s that might work But if you buy one good 12 I think you'll be happy.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Okay, now I get it. Does anyone have a better box that uses all of the rear well, or as much as possible of the upper portion?

CAMp3RO

what do you think is replacing this box?

i'm trying to get around 2.5 cu ft out of the well without too many difficult angles and cuts. had i planned it out better, the box would look better, but for now, it will do what it needs too. need to remeasure it in the next day or two to figure out how big it is. probably somewhere around 2.2-2.5. then comes the fun part of finding what port size. looking around 26 Hz for tuning and should give a pretty flat response curve, although the idea of being able to swap ports has crossed my mind....

Cuno

The Alpine Type R 12 subs will work in a ported box from .75 to 1.75 cubic feet.

CAMp3RO

oh, i know, but all the people i have talked to have recommended doing a 2.5 cu ft box. the response curve is flatter to lower freq. i'm pretty sure the 2.2 i'm probably going to end up with will be fine.

9177

The amount of space the port would take up even tuned to 32 htz would be bigger than the box. Kepp in mind you must also put in port displacment in the size of the box. Ported boxes are big, even when you have a small box size the port winds up making the box huge again.

CAMp3RO

i understand what goes into building a ported box. i'm using winisd to calculate the size of box and port. and i'm also going on recommendations of others who have used/tuned/installed these subs, so i'm not going in blind; i've done my research. i knew from the start the box was going to be large, so i decided to use the entire well this time and make it even with the rest of the trunk. i've gotten port sizes all calculated for boxes ranging from 1.7-2.5 cu ft, so i know how much i'll need for how big of box. tomorrow will be spent calculating the size of the inside, due to the fact that i've been adding space since the last size i came up with.

9177

Sorry that wasn't really for you but anyone else that was/is confused on some of the differences to doing a ported box.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

See if this helps for dimentions just remove a few inside pieces and do 12's or what ever you want in the top plate instead of 4 8's.

Captain C

How good would a box made entirely out of plexiglass sound? Say 1/2" thick. I realize you would have to attach the pieces with brackets and seal it with silicone. But the hard surface should sound good. Maybe if you lined the inside surface to the wooden box with 1/8" plexiglass. Anyone ever tried that????

CAMp3RO

for plexi, you want to try to stick to 3/4", 1/2" may still flex too much. i've seen plenty of boxes that are plexi. there one guy i've seen who specially builds them over on either termpro or carsound and they are works of art. saw a slot ported one that was made out of a total of 3 pieces. the 4 sides were all one piece bent into shape.

the coolest plexi box i saw in our cars was set in the well (of course). however, only the top was plexi, and the rest was nicely worked fiberglass. with that setup, the sub appeared to float in the well, like it was in midair level with the gas tank hump. it was awesome.

as for my ported box, i picked up some packing peanuts today to get a basic sizing. from there, figure in port size, make port, and put top and carpet on. i will be using a layer of fiberglass on the outside, but more for protection than sealing it up or reinforcement. my trunk leaks in 3 places (the most common spots) and with a layer of glass, i wont have a box go bad on me.

Captain C

My trunk never leaked on my first 85 Z-28. The one I have currently leaked where the gasket had separated and I cured that with a new gasket. That was ten years ago and the only leak I get now is the right window because the T-Top has a chunk out of the front corner. just barely too much to repair with silicone. Buying another one is on my "To Do" list when I can afford it. Too bad it wasn't the driver side because I have an extra....... BTW, my T-top gaskets don't leak because of the silicone they are sealed in with. Someone finally noticed the silicone (black on black) for the first time since I did it ten years ago.

I was going to buy a table saw today and start building a box (My skill saw is tweaked...) But a guy down the street got his 87 Corvette stolen last night. That's the second car in two weeks stolen on my street! This is normally a very quiet neighborhood. I just finished loading the Ar-15 in case they try to steal my pickup (first theft was a pickup and the Camaro is in it's proper place of honor, the garage). Anyway, the alarm (pocket fob) bit the dust so I need to buy a new alarm first.....

blackgold84

iTrader: (1)

i have a very solid box that i will sell for cheap, (takes up space in my room cause i haven't got speakers or amps) solid box i could jump on it from any direction and it wont budge i have pictures on page three of my web site i can email photos of it,

the box is for two ten inch subs fit in the well, a slanted rectangle or trapazoid shap so that it will slide out easy, there is a divider in the center for two seperate chambers, of im guessing a round or more .7 cubic feet lots of depth for big tens around 7 or 8 inches deepany questions about it ask me. it is painted black.

ill take some pictures of it tomorrow so they are new fotos, along with an in car veiw.

box has no other holes, for wires and such simple to do if you have any sense at all, we all do here look what we drive

heres pics, its the black box.
my box

Jose'sRedTA

I'd like to see some more pix and might be interested....wish you were selling that single sub enclosure though....definetly like to here more...pm me...