"Stealth" box update
#1
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Car: '96 M3
Engine: 3.2L V-6
Transmission: 5-sp
"Stealth" box update
Because of design conflicts I decided to move the stealth box plan to the driver side compartment. Fitting this box will require removal of the cheesy cardboard storage compartment. The good news is, most things people store thee can be held in the spare tire compartment instead. So here are a couple of pics of the new design. It will be ready to mold this week and ready for production within a month (after I get the first 2 out which are already sold). I haven't decided on a final price yet, but it will probably be $180 plus shipping. The airspace will be around .65 cu.ft. but can be modified to be smaller if necessary. The lock box cover will still function normally. It will fit up to a 10" dia. sub. I haven't measured depth yet, but it's around 6".
Last edited by REZN8R; 12-10-2002 at 09:55 AM.
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Car: 89 Formula / 09 G8
Engine: LS1 / LS3
Transmission: M6 / M6
Axle/Gears: 3:42 / 3:27
Is there any perticular reason you are only making them in 10" form? Also, is it possible for you to make them ~.88 cu.ft?
#7
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Car: '96 M3
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Pretty much I can't fit a flat spot big enough to hold a 12" sub. The airspace could probably get a little bigger, but it would be harder to get in and out, and might cause some clearance issues.
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#9
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Car: '96 M3
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Since this install would limit you to a single 10", I would say any quality 10" sub with good power handling would be the best bet. A JL Audio 10W3V2 for example, or Eclipse Titanium, something along those lines. Of course just about anything will work as long as it doesn't require more airspace.
#10
I'm interested in one as well.
Do you think in the future you might try to mold one for the passenger side without the spare tire?
I'm concerned going from 2 12's to 1 10 is going to be too much of a difference. I love hard solid bass for my rock and rap disks.
-Matt
Do you think in the future you might try to mold one for the passenger side without the spare tire?
I'm concerned going from 2 12's to 1 10 is going to be too much of a difference. I love hard solid bass for my rock and rap disks.
-Matt
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Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
Those of you worried about a single 10" not hitting hard enough need to quit buying cheap equipment, each of my single 10 setups is usually enough to get the "no its two 12's " arguement from people until i open the hatch. Heres what i'll be running for those curious on what to get, also had an eclipse aluminum 10, was very nice, we'll see how the boston works out.
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Car: '96 M3
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I probably will make one for the passenger side someday, but this one has been 3-4 months in development so far, so I wouldn't hold your breath
A single 10" can be made to sound really good and really loud. Of course if you use the same quality equipment with more than one 10" it will be louder. Personally I think one good 10" and 200-300 watts is enough for normal cruising, and this is from a guy who used to roll around with 2 15's back in the day. Technology has done wonders for car audio.
A single 10" can be made to sound really good and really loud. Of course if you use the same quality equipment with more than one 10" it will be louder. Personally I think one good 10" and 200-300 watts is enough for normal cruising, and this is from a guy who used to roll around with 2 15's back in the day. Technology has done wonders for car audio.
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Car: 86 z28, 87 IROC, 88 sc, 93 z28
Engine: LG4, LB9, LO3, LT1
Transmission: 700r4, T5, 700r4, 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.45, 2.73, 3.42
That looks pretty good, I have my amp and crossover mounted on shelves in the smae spot. I really like the stealt systems a lot. Nice work
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i use 2 10"s...maybe after that day you make the passenger side, i'll buy one of each.
that'll make for a clean looking install with 2 stealth 10s, lots of bass and all my storage area.
- Andy
that'll make for a clean looking install with 2 stealth 10s, lots of bass and all my storage area.
- Andy
Last edited by White Ninja; 12-11-2002 at 01:39 PM.
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Car: 89 Formula / 09 G8
Engine: LS1 / LS3
Transmission: M6 / M6
Axle/Gears: 3:42 / 3:27
The reason I ask is because I have an old style 12" solobaric that I use now. At the moment it fires toward the the tail lights (it used to fire at the gas tank) but I am toying with the idea to build a box so it fires up. The idea is nice but actually building a good box with a circular saw isn't that easy.
I don't really want to buy a new sub AND a box... but I could put the solo in my daily...
I don't really want to buy a new sub AND a box... but I could put the solo in my daily...
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Car: 89 Formula Firebird
Engine: 305 - Demon 525
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah Man thats where the box should go. I mean what do you really want to throw your spair tire out. What if you get a flat in some freezing rain or snow. Great! I think I'll keep my spare. Driver side=good idea.
#20
Originally posted by REZN8R
I probably will make one for the passenger side someday, but this one has been 3-4 months in development so far, so I wouldn't hold your breath
A single 10" can be made to sound really good and really loud. Of course if you use the same quality equipment with more than one 10" it will be louder. Personally I think one good 10" and 200-300 watts is enough for normal cruising, and this is from a guy who used to roll around with 2 15's back in the day. Technology has done wonders for car audio.
I probably will make one for the passenger side someday, but this one has been 3-4 months in development so far, so I wouldn't hold your breath
A single 10" can be made to sound really good and really loud. Of course if you use the same quality equipment with more than one 10" it will be louder. Personally I think one good 10" and 200-300 watts is enough for normal cruising, and this is from a guy who used to roll around with 2 15's back in the day. Technology has done wonders for car audio.
Z28racer, don't worry, I don't buy cheap equipment.
I will be powering it with an old school Rockford Fosgate Punch 200x2 bridged mono. Should be 400 watts RMS into 4 ohms. Even that may be underrated with this version of the amp.
-Matt
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Car: '96 M3
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I used to have one of those amps. They're well respected. I ran mine down to 1 ohm for awhile, but the sound quality just wasn't there. The sub was bouncing around out of control. No damping at that load. 4 ohm works really well though. I'll look at the enclosure today and check the real mounting depth.
#22
REZN8R, kind of off topic, but in all of your digging around in the hatch, do you think there is anyway conceivable to make a "stealth" 12" sub box on either side of the car? I haven't taken the time to take any panels off so I don't know how much room is back there. I realize it probably wouldn't fit under the panels, but I wanted to get your opinion on the subject.
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Car: '96 M3
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I think you could fit one in the pass. side behind the panel. The spare would be gone though. That's probably what I'll work on next.
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Car: 1991 GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Hey Rez, will that Stealth box fit a Type-R 10" sub, Trying to keep as much room in the trunk of the GTA. Either that or do you offer a single 10" box the goes into the well.
#27
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Type R 10" sub has a 5-15/16" mounting depth. I forgot to measure yesterday. I'll have to post on Monday. I have done a single 10" well box. Actually 2 different ones. One that went accross the well, the other that took up half of the well.
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by REZN8R
I'll look at the enclosure today and check the real mounting depth.
I'll look at the enclosure today and check the real mounting depth.
#30
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Car: '96 M3
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The closest point from the mounting surface is 6" (this is in the design piece not the finished product, it could end up being 5-7/8") There's an indentation on either side to clear some obstructions in the car. If the magnet on a given sub fits between these two areas, then the mounting depth is increased to about 7-1/2"
On progress: I've spent the last few days smoothing and waxing the "plug", I should be able to create the mold sometime this week or weekend.
On progress: I've spent the last few days smoothing and waxing the "plug", I should be able to create the mold sometime this week or weekend.
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Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
I'm very interested in this!! Please let me know when the project is for sale!!
#35
I look forward to some pics of the completed piece. Do you just leave it bare fiberglass since it gets put behind a panel or is it covered some how? Any driver recommendations yet?
Also, since it _was_ hinted at, what's the forecast look like for a 12" no-spare passenger side box? Please, please, please. I have AAA. I don't need no stinkin' spare.
Also, since it _was_ hinted at, what's the forecast look like for a 12" no-spare passenger side box? Please, please, please. I have AAA. I don't need no stinkin' spare.
#36
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Car: '96 M3
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I'll probably work on that one next (pass. side). The driver's side boxes will just be painted flat black. Carpet will be a $10 add-on option. I'll know more about driver recommendations when the first finished one is done.
#37
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Car: '96 M3
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I should have specs and stuff Monday or Tuesday. The first production box is finally built, it just needs a little touch-up.
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rezn8r i cant wait till you get the stealth box out for sail, im really excited and i think losts of other people are ready for one.you better have a lot of them ready for sale , i bet you'll sell 300 very quickly and i deff. want one.
#44
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Car: '96 M3
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Here's that press release I was talking about:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...51#post1140851
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...51#post1140851
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