[GA] 1992 Camaro RS
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,498
Likes: 26
From: Macon, GA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec headed 355, xe262
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt 3.70
1992 Camaro RS
Not sure if I really want to sell, just life getting in the way. This is a bit of a project, but I think with minimal work the right owner could make this a fantastic cruiser, or make it into a pretty high level autocross/road race car. I was never quite willing to really take it to the steps needed to take it to the next level for that sort of stuff.
1992 Camaro RS - 210k miles
1982 Z28 SMC lightweight hood
Replica ZR1 wheels, 17x9.5, 17x11
No Air Conditioner
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Engine, about 20k miles, about 300hp:
355 .030" overbore 5.7L Smallblock Chevy 1 pc RMS (truck block, not machined for roller hardware, but has castings for it)
Vortec 906 heads, screw in studs, Comp Pro Magnum rocker arms
Comp Cams xe262 218/224@.050 256/262 cam
L98 crankshaft
Scat I-beam 5.7" rods
Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons with coated skirts
Stewart Aluminum Water pump
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Quickfuel 650 double pumper carburetor
Mallory 4309 Bypass reuglator
Car goes 102mph at 3550 lbs raceweight in 1/4. Very reasonable ~300hp 350. Lots of torque. Geat for the autocross stuff I was doing with it.
Transmission:
6 Speed T56 from 1994 Trans Am, LT1 style, Stage 2 Competition Clutch (brand is "Competition Clutch), very streetable
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Custom crossmember to allow for clearance for long tube header exhausts (Skulte Performance Designs, no longer available)
Rear Axle:
Borg Warner 9-bolt differential
Aluminum "PBR" Brakes with 11.75" rotors
Lower Control arm relocation brackets
panhard rod relocation bracket
3.70 Gear ratio (Yukon gear, very quiet)
Misc:
Aluminum 4th Gen F-body driveshaft
"LS1" 98-02 Front brake upgrade
subframe connectors
Hedman long tube headers into dual 2.5" pipes that merge to a single 3.5" pipe that goes over the axle, muffler in stock location.
fourth gen seats
Suspension:
Koni Sport Adjustables
Ground Control Adjustable Spring kit
34mm Front sway bar
24mm rear sway bar
quick ratio IROC steering box
polyurethane front A-arm bushings
tubular panhard bar, single rod end, one end poly.
rod end lower control arms (rear)
Extended front ball joints (function as a drop spindle)
PA Racing Strut mounts (extra height for more strut travel, important for the low ride height).
Wheels: 2x 17x9.5 ZR1, 2x 17x11 ZR1, 4x 17x9 ZR1 (these are the white ones that have the race tire, Nitto NT01, these arent included, but Im open to selling these wheels, tires for free since they're older. Any ZR1s in the pictures above that aren't white are the 17x9.5 and 17x11 set.)
Basically, this car does NOT suffer from a lot of the handling problems extremely lowered cars have. It's VERY stable and very well balanced. I tended to come in the top 5 or close to it in raw overall times in the autocrosses out of 40-60 cars. Most cars this low are very prone to sudden snap oversteer. This one is not. It's VERY planted.
There's probably a lot of stuff I'm forgetting. The car has some very minor issues but nothing serious. I think with a weekend of work you could probably road trip it if you wanted. The car when dialed in is a great cruiser from a power curve point of view. Very fun, but not overkill for street driving. But also there's things like the radio doesnt work, and no heat or air conditioning, rear hatch mechanism doesnt work properly, etc. Like most cars with this amount of work done to them, it was always a constant work in progress, but always driveable and fun along the way. Just depends on where you want to go with it. Like I said earlier, I was never quite willing to throw a cage in it and gut the interior to make it a road race car. So it's at that point where a lot of the car is ready for the next step, but it's still close to it's street car roots.
Paint is original, with all the character included with that. No rust on it. Absolutely rock solid. As far as I know it's never been hit. I've had it since 2007. Dirty, a little rough around the edges, but a survivor and relatively clean. It's a good foundation for whatever you want it to be, except maybe an all out drag car, but you could probably set it up to do that too, but it's just got a lot of good road race parts on it.
For now, I think the number that makes sense to me for the condition it's in and the value of the parts in it, I'm asking $7500 obo.
Let me know if there's any interest. This is a car that deserves more attention than I give it these days.
1992 Camaro RS - 210k miles
1982 Z28 SMC lightweight hood
Replica ZR1 wheels, 17x9.5, 17x11
No Air Conditioner
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Engine, about 20k miles, about 300hp:
355 .030" overbore 5.7L Smallblock Chevy 1 pc RMS (truck block, not machined for roller hardware, but has castings for it)
Vortec 906 heads, screw in studs, Comp Pro Magnum rocker arms
Comp Cams xe262 218/224@.050 256/262 cam
L98 crankshaft
Scat I-beam 5.7" rods
Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons with coated skirts
Stewart Aluminum Water pump
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Quickfuel 650 double pumper carburetor
Mallory 4309 Bypass reuglator
Car goes 102mph at 3550 lbs raceweight in 1/4. Very reasonable ~300hp 350. Lots of torque. Geat for the autocross stuff I was doing with it.
Transmission:
6 Speed T56 from 1994 Trans Am, LT1 style, Stage 2 Competition Clutch (brand is "Competition Clutch), very streetable
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Custom crossmember to allow for clearance for long tube header exhausts (Skulte Performance Designs, no longer available)
Rear Axle:
Borg Warner 9-bolt differential
Aluminum "PBR" Brakes with 11.75" rotors
Lower Control arm relocation brackets
panhard rod relocation bracket
3.70 Gear ratio (Yukon gear, very quiet)
Misc:
Aluminum 4th Gen F-body driveshaft
"LS1" 98-02 Front brake upgrade
subframe connectors
Hedman long tube headers into dual 2.5" pipes that merge to a single 3.5" pipe that goes over the axle, muffler in stock location.
fourth gen seats
Suspension:
Koni Sport Adjustables
Ground Control Adjustable Spring kit
34mm Front sway bar
24mm rear sway bar
quick ratio IROC steering box
polyurethane front A-arm bushings
tubular panhard bar, single rod end, one end poly.
rod end lower control arms (rear)
Extended front ball joints (function as a drop spindle)
PA Racing Strut mounts (extra height for more strut travel, important for the low ride height).
Wheels: 2x 17x9.5 ZR1, 2x 17x11 ZR1, 4x 17x9 ZR1 (these are the white ones that have the race tire, Nitto NT01, these arent included, but Im open to selling these wheels, tires for free since they're older. Any ZR1s in the pictures above that aren't white are the 17x9.5 and 17x11 set.)
Basically, this car does NOT suffer from a lot of the handling problems extremely lowered cars have. It's VERY stable and very well balanced. I tended to come in the top 5 or close to it in raw overall times in the autocrosses out of 40-60 cars. Most cars this low are very prone to sudden snap oversteer. This one is not. It's VERY planted.
There's probably a lot of stuff I'm forgetting. The car has some very minor issues but nothing serious. I think with a weekend of work you could probably road trip it if you wanted. The car when dialed in is a great cruiser from a power curve point of view. Very fun, but not overkill for street driving. But also there's things like the radio doesnt work, and no heat or air conditioning, rear hatch mechanism doesnt work properly, etc. Like most cars with this amount of work done to them, it was always a constant work in progress, but always driveable and fun along the way. Just depends on where you want to go with it. Like I said earlier, I was never quite willing to throw a cage in it and gut the interior to make it a road race car. So it's at that point where a lot of the car is ready for the next step, but it's still close to it's street car roots.
Paint is original, with all the character included with that. No rust on it. Absolutely rock solid. As far as I know it's never been hit. I've had it since 2007. Dirty, a little rough around the edges, but a survivor and relatively clean. It's a good foundation for whatever you want it to be, except maybe an all out drag car, but you could probably set it up to do that too, but it's just got a lot of good road race parts on it.
For now, I think the number that makes sense to me for the condition it's in and the value of the parts in it, I'm asking $7500 obo.
Let me know if there's any interest. This is a car that deserves more attention than I give it these days.
Last edited by InfernalVortex; 05-20-2021 at 11:53 AM.
The following 4 users liked this post by InfernalVortex:
The following 2 users liked this post by Jeffrey Fontaine:
dmccain (05-25-2021), InfernalVortex (05-20-2021)
#6
Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 118
Likes: 9
From: Lansdale, PA
Car: 1991 Corvette
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: D44 3.33 gears
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
alan91z28
Auto Detailing and Appearance
9
03-01-2021 04:02 PM
adambros
Firebirds for Sale
3
05-29-2006 12:55 PM