88' Camaro, 383/500hp
#1
88' Camaro, 383/500hp
Well I just built it and just dont have time to play any more. I live in central Florida, and will help transport up to a 100 miles. I honestly dont know what its worth, offers are welcome, and help with a price tag is more then welcome too.
The body is very straight, NO BONDO, and finished off with PPG primor, mirror black, and clear coat. The supplys cost alone was near $800. I would judge the overal paint and body as a 9/10. This car was just built and has maybe 2 miles on it. Just drove it infront of my house a few times. It needs exhaust (header back) I do have a cat back system that i aquired, nuthing amazing, but would get you by. And some final tweeking on the carb.
I built this car to be a street/strip car, so this project could be taken in any direction.
Specs:
-383 SBC stroker,4 boilt main, 11:1 ratio (runs fine on 93)
-Fordged alum pistons
-Aluminum edelbrock performer RPM heads
-Roller rockers, hydrolic lifters
-Fordged crank ($1100)
-Cam has about 520 lift and a fairly low duration. Sounds like a lot of cam, but it doesnt have a loppy idle.
- FULL MSD ignition set up, 6AL box, pro built distributor, Blaster 3 coil, 9mm wires
-7 QT oil pan
-Edelbrock intake man
-770 Holly carb w/ elec choke
-All new water pump, starter, alt, and power steer pump.
-Alum chevy valve covers
-Edelbrock 50/75/100 nitrous system (never used! althought motor was built to handle atleast 250 shot)
-Holly blue electric fuel pump, with regulator, and gauge
-Hooker ceramic (sp?) coated headers
-The motor alone cost $9,000 to build at shop costs, not including the nitrous, carb, and some other small things.
-The tranny is a brand new TH400, its fairly built up ($1450), a deep chrome pan, plus a B&M hole shot 2500 stall converter, ($450) including all lower bell housing and bars that connect from the lower housing to the motor mounts, to make this a bullet proof drive train.
-Hurst tranny cross member, to convert the tranny to work with the th400
-I did away with the factory way the torque arm mounted, (Zero axle wrap)
-The drive shaft is BRAND NEW, not re done, but brand new, $340
-The int is clean, the carpet is an 8 out of 10, the driver seat does have a rip, but the seat covers cover it up. I must say the seat covers fit and match the int. like they came fom the factory.
-Custom gauge cluster house 7 Auto Meters new white face, black bezel, 2 5/8" Phantom gauges and a 3.5" tach.
-The rims are cusome painted with black inserts, came out really nice
- sway bar bushings, and other things like that have been replaced
The body is very straight, NO BONDO, and finished off with PPG primor, mirror black, and clear coat. The supplys cost alone was near $800. I would judge the overal paint and body as a 9/10. This car was just built and has maybe 2 miles on it. Just drove it infront of my house a few times. It needs exhaust (header back) I do have a cat back system that i aquired, nuthing amazing, but would get you by. And some final tweeking on the carb.
I built this car to be a street/strip car, so this project could be taken in any direction.
Specs:
-383 SBC stroker,4 boilt main, 11:1 ratio (runs fine on 93)
-Fordged alum pistons
-Aluminum edelbrock performer RPM heads
-Roller rockers, hydrolic lifters
-Fordged crank ($1100)
-Cam has about 520 lift and a fairly low duration. Sounds like a lot of cam, but it doesnt have a loppy idle.
- FULL MSD ignition set up, 6AL box, pro built distributor, Blaster 3 coil, 9mm wires
-7 QT oil pan
-Edelbrock intake man
-770 Holly carb w/ elec choke
-All new water pump, starter, alt, and power steer pump.
-Alum chevy valve covers
-Edelbrock 50/75/100 nitrous system (never used! althought motor was built to handle atleast 250 shot)
-Holly blue electric fuel pump, with regulator, and gauge
-Hooker ceramic (sp?) coated headers
-The motor alone cost $9,000 to build at shop costs, not including the nitrous, carb, and some other small things.
-The tranny is a brand new TH400, its fairly built up ($1450), a deep chrome pan, plus a B&M hole shot 2500 stall converter, ($450) including all lower bell housing and bars that connect from the lower housing to the motor mounts, to make this a bullet proof drive train.
-Hurst tranny cross member, to convert the tranny to work with the th400
-I did away with the factory way the torque arm mounted, (Zero axle wrap)
-The drive shaft is BRAND NEW, not re done, but brand new, $340
-The int is clean, the carpet is an 8 out of 10, the driver seat does have a rip, but the seat covers cover it up. I must say the seat covers fit and match the int. like they came fom the factory.
-Custom gauge cluster house 7 Auto Meters new white face, black bezel, 2 5/8" Phantom gauges and a 3.5" tach.
-The rims are cusome painted with black inserts, came out really nice
- sway bar bushings, and other things like that have been replaced
Last edited by BBWStroker; 10-08-2006 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Didnt finish ad
#2
pics and interior pics and info to reddevilfedor@yahoo.com
#3
I took it out and got some more pics, In these pictures you can see the HUGE 10.5" wide rear tires that I just had put on. You can see how reflective the paint is, and no wax or shine has even been applyed yet. Looking at the pics i forgot to instal the kicker panal on the driver side, and finish installing the truck panels, I will finish these probably today, only takes a second to do. Also, the seat covers in the pick look really bleached out when they arent, white balance in my camara maybe? The motor could use some cleaning, i polished it up before i stuffed it in, so theres plenty of shine left to bring out in there.
I was running the numbers and between the complete motor and tranny alone, there is atleast $13,000, not to mention the PPG pain, gauges, and car itself. To be honest, id like to see half of what I have in the drivetrain.
A few things i forgot to bring up
-Optima red top battery ($120)
-Brand new Alum radiator ($400)
-Brand new Alum tranny cooler ($80)
-16" cooling fan ($80)
Every buld in the tail/corner lights have been replace, along with brand new head lights ($70)
now onto the new pics, it was a little overcast out, so they arent amazing, but i hope these will do for now.
The front tires are goodyears, really good shape.
you can see how reflective the pain is, and this was an overcast day
I was running the numbers and between the complete motor and tranny alone, there is atleast $13,000, not to mention the PPG pain, gauges, and car itself. To be honest, id like to see half of what I have in the drivetrain.
A few things i forgot to bring up
-Optima red top battery ($120)
-Brand new Alum radiator ($400)
-Brand new Alum tranny cooler ($80)
-16" cooling fan ($80)
Every buld in the tail/corner lights have been replace, along with brand new head lights ($70)
now onto the new pics, it was a little overcast out, so they arent amazing, but i hope these will do for now.
The front tires are goodyears, really good shape.
you can see how reflective the pain is, and this was an overcast day
#5
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Car: cleanest '86 sport coupe around!!
Engine: 355ci twin 66mm turbos on e85
Transmission: built rmvb th400 w/ t-brake
Axle/Gears: 3.23
how much are you asking/wanting to get out of it?
#6
The radio has not been installed, but I will include a brand new unit that i got for $165, with install kit. All the wires are easy to get to and color matched, wouldnt take more then 15min to put in
Like many of these cars, the dash has a crack in it, it seems big, but it took about 8 pictures to get it to show up on the camera, I honestly dont think youll see it unless your looking for it
Nice straight bondo free body
Just another pictire of how mirror like the paint is (roof)
Like many of these cars, the dash has a crack in it, it seems big, but it took about 8 pictures to get it to show up on the camera, I honestly dont think youll see it unless your looking for it
Nice straight bondo free body
Just another pictire of how mirror like the paint is (roof)
#7
My words about this car, its FAST, i've driven it a few times infront of my house, and it'll smoke 'em till you let off. To give you an idea, with about about 65% of the way in the gas, it will shift though all the gears smooth as can be, and the tach will sit at 4200 rpm the entire way. I honestly dont thing the secondarys had even opened up. I built this car with the idea of it being able to run high 11s on the motor and low 11s or high 10s with the nitrous, and drive it around town.
If anyone has any questions I will be more then happy to help answer, thanks for your time!
-Matt
If anyone has any questions I will be more then happy to help answer, thanks for your time!
-Matt
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