those with LS1 brakes (front)
#1
those with LS1 brakes (front)
I just cut my spindles and need a bit of info before I drill and tap.
So will I need to drill and tap for 2 different sizes? I don't know much about threads and all. I have Ed's LS1 swap bracket (flynbye).
Top
7/16-20 (tap), 25/64 (drill bit)
Bottom
M10 x 1.5mm (tap), 8.5mm (drill bit)
So will I need to drill and tap for 2 different sizes? I don't know much about threads and all. I have Ed's LS1 swap bracket (flynbye).
Top
7/16-20 (tap), 25/64 (drill bit)
Bottom
M10 x 1.5mm (tap), 8.5mm (drill bit)
#4
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Car: 87' IROC
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
I just cut my spindles and need a bit of info before I drill and tap.
So will I need to drill and tap for 2 different sizes? I don't know much about threads and all. I have Ed's LS1 swap bracket (flynbye).
Top
7/16-20 (tap), 25/64 (drill bit)
Bottom
M10 x 1.5mm (tap), 8.5mm (drill bit)
So will I need to drill and tap for 2 different sizes? I don't know much about threads and all. I have Ed's LS1 swap bracket (flynbye).
Top
7/16-20 (tap), 25/64 (drill bit)
Bottom
M10 x 1.5mm (tap), 8.5mm (drill bit)
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
i think its a clearance issue with certain swaps?
I used 1/2-13 for both holes on my baer setup
I used 1/2-13 for both holes on my baer setup
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
I ended up using 1/2"-20 for my bracket to spindle connection. The Brembos accept an M14 bolt. What size are the holes on the Baers?
#7
Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
Bringing this thread back....
Here is where I stand. I cut the ears off the spindle, drilled and tapped the dust shield holes and mounted the spindle to the strut. When I tried to mount the caliper bracket, I noticed that the lower hole is blocked by a tooth sticking off the spindle (see image below). Is it okay to cut this off?
Borrowing this pic from Twin_Turbo... Looks like he cut that part off. I been searching but cannot find a clear answer to this question. I just want to confirm before I cut.
Here is where I stand. I cut the ears off the spindle, drilled and tapped the dust shield holes and mounted the spindle to the strut. When I tried to mount the caliper bracket, I noticed that the lower hole is blocked by a tooth sticking off the spindle (see image below). Is it okay to cut this off?
Borrowing this pic from Twin_Turbo... Looks like he cut that part off. I been searching but cannot find a clear answer to this question. I just want to confirm before I cut.
Last edited by blakecharles; 12-10-2012 at 06:14 PM.
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#8
Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
maybe I bit off more than I can chew here... I also bought new wheel bearings and seals but never installed before... How do I grease them? How do they go on?
#9
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Car: 87' IROC
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
Bringing this thread back....
Here is where I stand. I cut the ears off the spindle, drilled and tapped the dust shield holes and mounted the spindle to the strut. When I tried to mount the caliper bracket, I noticed that the lower hole is blocked by a tooth sticking off the spindle (see image below). Is it okay to cut this off?
Borrowing this pic from Twin_Turbo... Looks like he cut that part off. I been searching but cannot find a clear answer to this question. I just want to confirm before I cut.
Here is where I stand. I cut the ears off the spindle, drilled and tapped the dust shield holes and mounted the spindle to the strut. When I tried to mount the caliper bracket, I noticed that the lower hole is blocked by a tooth sticking off the spindle (see image below). Is it okay to cut this off?
Borrowing this pic from Twin_Turbo... Looks like he cut that part off. I been searching but cannot find a clear answer to this question. I just want to confirm before I cut.
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Car: 88 Iroc Z, 00 SS
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
yes, that little ear is supposed to be cut off. As for the bearings, you should look online for a tutorial on packing wheel bearings. As for how they go on, once you take a look at the inside of the hub you should get the idea, tapered sides facing each other
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Transmission: th700r4+Edge 2800 stall
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
I filed half moon shaped notch to spindle steering stop,and bolted caliper carrier to bracket with allen head bolts.I want to save steering stops because front wheels turned to max,brake hose banjo bolts will hit to A-arm steering stop rivets.And of course I had to make ~2cm long extensions to A-arm steering stops.
#12
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Car: 87' IROC
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Transmission: T56
Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
I filed half moon shaped notch to spindle steering stop,and bolted caliper carrier to bracket with allen head bolts.I want to save steering stops because front wheels turned to max,brake hose banjo bolts will hit to A-arm steering stop rivets.And of course I had to make ~2cm long extensions to A-arm steering stops.
The biggest problem with button heads is you can't torque them to spec due to the small tool. They are also not typically considered for structural applications.
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Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
If i remember correctly,bolt torque was 137lb/ft+loctite.It was cap head, grade 12.9
#14
Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
a few more noob questions
- should I be using LS1 or IROC bearings + seals?
- what is the torque spec for the bracket bolts (EBmiller/flynbye)? should I user perm loctite (red)?
EBmillers bracket came with no instructions... I am not as intuitive as others and everything about this bracket that seems to be obvious to everyone else... is not to me. Well I for the most part guessed right but want to be sure. Like most people, I am a visual learner. I searched but found no clear answers to the questions above.
- should I be using LS1 or IROC bearings + seals?
- what is the torque spec for the bracket bolts (EBmiller/flynbye)? should I user perm loctite (red)?
EBmillers bracket came with no instructions... I am not as intuitive as others and everything about this bracket that seems to be obvious to everyone else... is not to me. Well I for the most part guessed right but want to be sure. Like most people, I am a visual learner. I searched but found no clear answers to the questions above.
#16
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Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
a few more noob questions
- should I be using LS1 or IROC bearings + seals?
- what is the torque spec for the bracket bolts (EBmiller/flynbye)? should I user perm loctite (red)?
EBmillers bracket came with no instructions... I am not as intuitive as others and everything about this bracket that seems to be obvious to everyone else... is not to me. Well I for the most part guessed right but want to be sure. Like most people, I am a visual learner. I searched but found no clear answers to the questions above.
- should I be using LS1 or IROC bearings + seals?
- what is the torque spec for the bracket bolts (EBmiller/flynbye)? should I user perm loctite (red)?
EBmillers bracket came with no instructions... I am not as intuitive as others and everything about this bracket that seems to be obvious to everyone else... is not to me. Well I for the most part guessed right but want to be sure. Like most people, I am a visual learner. I searched but found no clear answers to the questions above.
Who did you buy the hubs from?
Bolt torque is determined by the size of the bolt. What is the thread size of the bolts?
Before you mentioned 7/16-20 top and M10x1.5mm. That is quite a strange combination. Not just is SAE / Metric but one is a fine thread and the other course. Just doesn't make any sense to me. One is grade 8 zinc plated, the other is stainless?? grade?
Is the bottom bolt stainless? Where do you get it? What grade?
Assuming the top bolt is 7/16-20, grade 8. The torque spec is 75ftlbs dry or 70ftlbs with loctite.
The bottom bolt is harder b/c its a button head which are not generally considered structural and don't typically have standard torque specs. This is because the allen socket is very small and is typically the limiting factor in tightening the bolt. This is the same reason why button heads are typically made of a lower grade of steel. If it is stainless the spec would be somewhere around 22 ftlbs dry. If it is made from grade 5 steel, the torque spec would be somewhere around 33 ftlbs dry
As far as bolt retention. My preference in order is:
1. lock wire
2. Nordlocks
3. Loctite red
4. Loctite blue
Also, I will point out that it looks like you are using a washer under the lower bolt head that is way to large for the bolt size. Get yourself the proper sized washer.
#17
Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
I got the hubs from bigbrakeupgrade... will post again with the other info.... the bracket and all the bolts came with EBmillers Bracket. I think I'm doing a lot wrong, that's why I made this thread.
taken from the following thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/newr...eply&p=4734502
taken from the following thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/newr...eply&p=4734502
To keep it simple I normally use a 7/16"-20 on the upper bolt and a M10 x 1.5 button head Allen on the lower spindle bolt. The button head allows the caliper abutment to clear the bolt head, it's very tight in that area. You don't need to go to the larger M12 but that's up to you. Using slightly smaller bolts leaves more spindle material for you.
Ed
Ed
Last edited by blakecharles; 12-12-2012 at 05:41 PM.
#18
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
I got the hubs from bigbrakeupgrade... will post again with the other info.... the bracket and all the bolts came with EBmillers Bracket. I think I'm doing a lot wrong, that's why I made this thread.
taken from the following thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/newr...eply&p=4734502
taken from the following thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/newr...eply&p=4734502
You aren't doing anything wrong. You just chose to buy the components piece by piece and now have a few things to figure out. Nothing wrong with that.
Now to be of greater help. Can you mock up the caliper and tell me if the button head is completely necessary on the lower bolt? Will a normal bolt head fit instead? What about a smaller bolt head like a 12pt?
John
#19
Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
The hubs didn't come with bearings and seals?
You aren't doing anything wrong. You just chose to buy the components piece by piece and now have a few things to figure out. Nothing wrong with that.
Now to be of greater help. Can you mock up the caliper and tell me if the button head is completely necessary on the lower bolt? Will a normal bolt head fit instead? What about a smaller bolt head like a 12pt?
John
You aren't doing anything wrong. You just chose to buy the components piece by piece and now have a few things to figure out. Nothing wrong with that.
Now to be of greater help. Can you mock up the caliper and tell me if the button head is completely necessary on the lower bolt? Will a normal bolt head fit instead? What about a smaller bolt head like a 12pt?
John
#20
Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
Bringing this thread back....
Here is where I stand. I cut the ears off the spindle, drilled and tapped the dust shield holes and mounted the spindle to the strut. When I tried to mount the caliper bracket, I noticed that the lower hole is blocked by a tooth sticking off the spindle (see image below). Is it okay to cut this off?
Borrowing this pic from Twin_Turbo... Looks like he cut that part off. I been searching but cannot find a clear answer to this question. I just want to confirm before I cut.
Here is where I stand. I cut the ears off the spindle, drilled and tapped the dust shield holes and mounted the spindle to the strut. When I tried to mount the caliper bracket, I noticed that the lower hole is blocked by a tooth sticking off the spindle (see image below). Is it okay to cut this off?
Borrowing this pic from Twin_Turbo... Looks like he cut that part off. I been searching but cannot find a clear answer to this question. I just want to confirm before I cut.
Cut them off and use a big allen head bolt, it will take about the same position as the original steering stop. Never had a problem with it.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; 12-14-2012 at 04:45 AM.
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
ok guys im trying to get my rotors cut for hubs to do the 2010 brembo brakes. What have you who have gone this route been charged? Im getting 250, 300, 350....DUDE NEW BILLET HUBS with bearings seals and longer studs are 320...any one know anyone in NJ that isnt ridiculous.
#22
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Car: 87' IROC
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Re: those with LS1 brakes (front)
ok guys im trying to get my rotors cut for hubs to do the 2010 brembo brakes. What have you who have gone this route been charged? Im getting 250, 300, 350....DUDE NEW BILLET HUBS with bearings seals and longer studs are 320...any one know anyone in NJ that isnt ridiculous.
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