88camaroscv6

iTrader: (1)

Left (Drum) Middle (J65) Right (Grainger 1NCR5)

I had all these springs out today while doing my P-Valve Upgrade, figured I should post up some pics for everyone since there aren't really any side by side pics floating around. I has going to use the grainger spring, but I got my hands on a free J65 P-valve so I will be swapping that p-valves hardware instead.

The drum spring was the softest and longest one. The grainger and J65 spring are the same length. The spring is harder to compress with your fingers than the J65 spring, making the grainger spring the most firm. The J65 spring was a tiny bit "girthier" than the grainger.

The drum plunger was the same length but shaped differently and different in color to the J65 plunger as you can see in the picture. The J65 plunger was also girthier.

Another difference is that the nut on the J65 valve is bigger than the drum nut, the J65 plunger will not fit in the drum nut, it is too wide, but the positive side is that the thread is the same on both nuts so you can swap them easily.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for posting the above. It's too bad you didn't have a standard J65 valve as well--I'd love to see the physical difference in the three: drum, standard, and 1LE.

JamesC

88camaroscv6

iTrader: (1)

You're Welcome, and yes I do have a J65 P-Valve too, it looks identical to the drum p-valve, both are 1989 p-valves. I just swapped the guts because it was a lot easier to do than unbolting all the lines and master to get the p-valve out, the swap literally took 1 minute.

88camaroscv6

iTrader: (1)

Btw ive been driving my car around for about a week now and tested the swapped spring on jackstands and honestly it works just the same as the drum spring did. Not a huge difference, maybe a little bit more pressure getting to the rear calipers but nothing noticeable, i was able to stop the rear from spinning in drive with both drum and disc springs and after a few seconds the rotors will begin to start spinning slightly again. but i did notice a tiny change, nothing dramatic, so i guess its true about what someone said, that the brake cylinder in drums and pbr calipers have around the same brake fluid capacity

chazman

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for posting. Very interesting. I wonder how those compare to the 1NCF2 spring, I just received in the mail?

Cadaver Puncher

iTrader: (1)

Do you need to bleed the brakes afterwards?

Arvizu9618

iTrader: (1)

I believe the 1NCR5 is rated at 30lb/in and the 1NCF2 is rated at 37.

Arvizu9618

iTrader: (1)

definitely

88camaroscv6

iTrader: (1)

yeah i bled the brakes completely, kind of tempted to try out the grainger spring now, it would be nice if more people with the grainger springs can give us feedback after installing them so we can see which is the most effective swap

z 28 jari

iTrader: (1)

88camaroscv6,did you measure original J65 spring inside dia?
At original iron disc prop valve spring inside dia is ~10mm ,and plunger seat where spring goes is 9.7mm wide.
1NCF2 spring inside dia is 9mm.

88camaroscv6

iTrader: (1)

no sorry i didn't measure the inside diameter, just compared them visually for the obvious differences

btw the grainger springs ratings are
(Shiny ones) 1NCF2= 22lbs
(Goldish ones)1NCR5= 19lbs

lewandom

I know I'm bringing this thread up from the dead, but if I just change the spring out to the 1NCR5 when I convert the current drums to LS1 rear disks that I aquired it should be close to correct? Do I need to find a plunger too? It's an 84 so I dnot know if it's metric or SAE so changing the spring would be 100% easier than trying to find a new prop valve

Citation X

Would like to know myself. I have the springs already and changed my brakes to the ctsv. I don't seem to notice a difference between the drum and the discs. Fronts made a huge difference though. I may just swap the spring and see.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Think it depends on the brake setup. Some people have great results with the spring swap, others like me it doesn't do quite enough. LS1 brakes might benefit more than the PBR brakes, not sure. My 93 rear end with disc brakes still can just barely stop the rear wheels on jack stands. And that's with the stiffer spring. However it's cheap and easy compared to installing a prop valve so I'd say go for it. No need to find a new plunger.

lewandom

Awesome...also since I'm in Saudi I don't have the car in front of me, I'm not sure which proportioning valve I have, on the newer boxy one it's just removing the bolt in the front of it and changing the spring, if I have the older one that's cast iron how do I change the spring?