HeavyThundar

We should all be able to agree that GM was smoking a crack rock (like most everyone else in the 80's) when it came to F-Body rear disk brakes. The fact is, the whole park brake incorporated rear caliper, just doesn't work worth having. I'm tired of replacing calipers and trying my best to use park brake to keep em freed up.

So whats the best way to remedy the situation? What other calipers can i install that will bolt up?

I tore down one of my calipers the other night and had a thought. Why not just gut out the park break mechanism. Remove the inner piston, springs, washers, gear, weld the hole in the piston up, and put it back together. It would basically be just a normal caliper. Think it would work?

HeavyThundar

TTT. Help me out.

Whats the easiest caliper swap to do for a reliable caliper, and will they bolt up to the existing mounts?

Will D-154 metrics fit?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Honestly I stay away from those disc setups all together..
If it was me I would use 89-97 rear disc setup. much better.
Its all I have on my cars. I wont buy 88 and older f cars 4 that reason!!
just upgrade and be happy!!
of course make sure you have wheels that'll fit ..

HeavyThundar

Do they bolt right up?

HeavyThundar

Just making sure, but in order to do a 89-97 rear caliper swap, i need to swap rotors also? NAPA shows two different pn's for 87 and 89 camaro rear rotors. Will lines work? I'm actually thinking about hacking off those ridiculous metal lines and mounting SSBLs.

Rotors $27.25 x 2 = $54.50
Calipers $175 x 2 = $350
Pads $20

So $424.50+ later ill have a reliable rear brake system. F*ing ridiculous.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Yeah you have to swap everything to make those newer disc brakes work. Its not hard but you hae to swap the backing plates, calipers, and rotors, probably will have to do something about the brake lines too since the Delco Moraine calipers are on opposite sides of the axle on different sides, and the PBR calipers are both on the backside of the caliper. The e-brake should still work, but you'll have to adjust it.

88fastgta

iTrader: (9)

with that kind of money you could find a 98+ rear with ls1 brakes.... so you will have a lower mileage rear and much better brakes... just a thought...

HeavyThundar

Dang Lorang. Im too lazy and cheap to do all that. Actually, i might. I was hoping there was just a simple caliper swap, i didnt care if my Park Brake worked or not. I think ima try welding up that piston first and trying that route.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The link I posted in your other thread details the conversion.

JamesC

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

It depends on what rearend you have and what rear or parts you buy.
Like what was said earlier, look 4 a complete rearend. Its cheaper than buying 100% new parts. Ive seen them go for 100-400$
If you buy the complete rear from a 3rdgen you will most likely even have the working Ebrake cables. The 3rdgens used a 9bolt and 10bolt soo they have 2 diff backing plates just like your brakes.
Unless you roadcourse the crap out of your car, I like the 89-97 brakes a lil better than the 98-02 LS rear brakes because they are waaay lighter and dont have the goofy heavy drum style 70s corvette style ebrake built in to the rotor and I think more wheels fit them than the LS(im not 100% sure tho)..

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Yeah man LS swap all the way! Wayyyy cheaper too. Find em on ebay too. This is the guy I bought mine from. Offer him $150

http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-02-Camaro...item48416d1805

Impaqt

iTrader: (1)

I havent thought about my rear drums much until reading this thread. No idea why my well optioned car didnt get that $179 option box checked....

anyway.... WHat else needs to be swapped in order to put LS1 rear discs on my 1988 Iroc? Proportioning valve obviously.... is the booster, and master cylinder from the 88 good?

I did a search and it seems theres a couple PValves that come up often.
GM 14089496 1989 1st design: M1.0 tube nut threads (1984 - early 1989)
GM 10136840 1989 2nd design: M1.5 tube nut threads (Late 1989-92)

since I've got an 88, I assume the first one is the one I need?

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Here's what you need:

https://www.thirdgen.org/ls1reardisc

And here's what you do about the prop valve:

https://www.thirdgen.org/propvalve

I've done both recently and was a huge improvement. Also, grab an LS1 Camaro master cylinder. It'll bolt to your stock booster and give you a little extra pedal. Also you can pick up an LS1 booster too. Another added benefit to the LS1 master is that you can then use a Motive Products power bleeder to thoroughly bleed your brakes by yourself.

When you get your drums off, you'll find this:

Which you have to make look like this through drilling and cutting. Not too difficult:


Then throw on the backing plates and mount everything up. Done:


Prop valve:

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Yes.

JamesC

the209bnr

I wish I would've read this before dumping $$$ into getting the rear end set up (brakes) redone.. FML

02WS6SSZ71

iTrader: (1)

Will the LS1 rear brakes fit behind 16" GTA wheels?

paul_huryk

And then you need a new set of rear wheels, if not all 4...