Brakes are hard
#1
Brakes are hard
I have a 84 camaro z28 and the breaks are hard as a rock. I do not know why this is. they will stop you but you need to start breaking far away from traffic in hopes to stop and i almost have to put my whole body weight into it to get it to press and work. i was thinking maybe a bad brake booster or master cylinder any of you smarter techs have a answer for me please and thankyou.
Joe
Joe
#2
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Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Brakes are hard
hmm,i was thinking somthing to do with the brake booster like you said. just to keep it simple, have you checked the vacuum line that hooks up to the booster?
#3
Re: Brakes are hard
no, i have not checked the vacuum lines brake booster was my first thought too. but everything i read on here says if its the brake booster the brakes should be somewhat spongey and have a air noise when compressing them? could be wrong
Joe
Joe
#4
Re: Brakes are hard
Your problem is the brake booster, or the vacuum line to the brake booster is disconnected. Here is a simple test to see if the booster is bad. Get in your car, with the engine off, pump the brake pedal numerous times till it is rock hard. Hold the brake pedal applying plenty of pressure. Now start the car with your foot still on the brake pedal. Did the brake pedal fade about a half of an inch when you started the car? If it didn't drop any, replace the booster. Hope this helps......
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Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Re: Brakes are hard
Have you checked the fluid level? Did you bleed all 4 bleeders? I wouldn't buy any parts until I did this......
#6
Re: Brakes are hard
Are you serious? if he had air in the system the pedal would be going to the floor, he'd have no pressure. I've been a automotive tech for 19 years, I'm ASE certified, and a Virginia State inspector. I assure you it's not air trapped in the system....
#7
Re: Brakes are hard
i will do what unprdictable suggested tommorow when i get to the car fluid level is fine. brakes are bled and yes air in ur line causes squeshy spongey kind of brakes.
Joe
if the booster does drop the pedal bout half a inch what else cld be causing this?
Joe
if the booster does drop the pedal bout half a inch what else cld be causing this?
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#8
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Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Re: Brakes are hard
Good for you, but it never hurts to start with other basics..... I have been doing my own work for over 20 years and that's just the way I do things...... The op said he had to put all his weight into it (to the floor?,no pressure?) You said yourself in your post "pump brake pedal till it's rock hard".>> Is it hard at the floor or hard before it bottoms out? That is the????<< IF It's hard at the floor I may be right, bad back cylinder or leak somewhere!This forum is for gentleman to give their different ways of diagnosing problems. Some will be right and others will be wrong! I very well could be wrong! I'm just trying to give this guy other options to check out that are free. It's not a power trip buddy! Somebody need a hug?
Last edited by bitchin_buick; 02-10-2011 at 06:50 PM.
#9
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Car: 1988 iroc-z
Engine: 350 Vortec TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 4th gen Torsen 10bolt
Re: Brakes are hard
air in lines,bad master,blown whl cyl,low fluid -------- soft pedal
bad booster,booster hose disconnected ----------- hard pedal
people who know nothing please dont give advice on brakes.........
bad booster,booster hose disconnected ----------- hard pedal
people who know nothing please dont give advice on brakes.........
#10
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Car: 1988 iroc-z
Engine: 350 Vortec TPI
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Axle/Gears: 3.73 4th gen Torsen 10bolt
Re: Brakes are hard
im also ASE in brakes and RI state inspector
#11
Re: Brakes are hard
ok well if i determine its a bad booster. hoping its just a vac leak or a disconnected hose *crosses fingers*. could i pull one from the jy and have it work? or do i need to buy a whole new one priced them theyre pretty expensive. thank you for all the advice loving the info on the forums here and i love to hear everyones opinions.
Joe
Joe
#12
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Car: 83 Z28
Engine: F-body LT1 swap
Transmission: T-56 swap
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 28 spl posi, 4.10, disks
Re: Brakes are hard
Well, there are some parts I will buy used. I am not sure if a booster is one of them.
Master cylinders can leak out the back and drip into the booster causeing the issues that you are having. I guess that if you get a warranty with it and you are poor like I am, it would probably be ok.
As far as checking stuff, I would do the following:
I would check the vaccum line coming off the booster, look at the check valve and make sure it is there. (right angle plastic piece coming off the booster) You can check to see if it is working by starting the car, let it run for 15 seconds or so, shut it off, and then pull the check valve out of the booster. You should hear a hiss from the escaping vaccum. If you dont hear that, it means one of two things, a bad diaphram in the booster or a bad check valve.
Follow the booster line to the intake. It should be hooked to a large fitting usually at the back of the intake. Make sure the line is in good shape and has clamps on both ends of the hose.
But, as was said above, it sounds like a bad booster. They are not too hard to change.
Master cylinders can leak out the back and drip into the booster causeing the issues that you are having. I guess that if you get a warranty with it and you are poor like I am, it would probably be ok.
As far as checking stuff, I would do the following:
I would check the vaccum line coming off the booster, look at the check valve and make sure it is there. (right angle plastic piece coming off the booster) You can check to see if it is working by starting the car, let it run for 15 seconds or so, shut it off, and then pull the check valve out of the booster. You should hear a hiss from the escaping vaccum. If you dont hear that, it means one of two things, a bad diaphram in the booster or a bad check valve.
Follow the booster line to the intake. It should be hooked to a large fitting usually at the back of the intake. Make sure the line is in good shape and has clamps on both ends of the hose.
But, as was said above, it sounds like a bad booster. They are not too hard to change.
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Car: 91' bird(WS6>>305TBI), 82'Regal
Re: Brakes are hard
That's why I check things that are free first and that don't take long to check. If it doesn't solve the problem "No harm done......" Good luck! From the way it looks I am wrong! Can't win'em all...........
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: Brakes are hard
What about a stuck/frozen caliper piston or wheel cylinder - wouldn't that also cause a hrd pedal with little stopping power? Pedal hard because fluid not pushing anything like it should (the stuck piston/cylinder) and no stopping power.
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Car: 1988 iroc-z
Engine: 350 Vortec TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 4th gen Torsen 10bolt
Re: Brakes are hard
the fluid would go to the other side and cause a severe pull and the pedal would still feel normal.
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Re: Brakes are hard
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#19
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Re: Brakes are hard
My car has 4 wheel discs and 15 inch rims. Right when I start up my car the brakes are hard and it feels like I am trying to stop a car like Fred Flintstone/ stop a fright train. After it warms after a while or I drive for a while the pedal gets softer and stops better or like normal. The master is not leaking or low and it seems like a bad vacuum line or brake booster.
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 355 solid roller (395 stroker soon)
Transmission: t-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt posi
Re: Brakes are hard
Take the rubber hose going to the booster out. With the car running spray some carb cleaner in to the hose. You will hear the rpm's raise a little but that is okay. Sometimes carbon builds up in the hose and will cause a blockage causing no vacuum to go to the booster. Try this first before you start replacing parts.
#21
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Re: Brakes are hard
Take the rubber hose going to the booster out. With the car running spray some carb cleaner in to the hose. You will hear the rpm's raise a little but that is okay. Sometimes carbon builds up in the hose and will cause a blockage causing no vacuum to go to the booster. Try this first before you start replacing parts.
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