My Rear Brake Project...
#51
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Car: "My American Dream"
Engine: V8
Transmission: auto
Thank You :hail:
First i'll be looking for BPR rear disk brakes and adjustable propotion valve and ceramic brakepads. That will be enough for a while... But you never know about the future, if i go totally nuts and get that wilwood stuff some day
First i'll be looking for BPR rear disk brakes and adjustable propotion valve and ceramic brakepads. That will be enough for a while... But you never know about the future, if i go totally nuts and get that wilwood stuff some day
#52
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86IROCNJ,
The brakes are still working great. Almost too great. I still have the 1LE's up front. I am using the Wilwood prop. valve and I have to have it all the way turned down. The rears are still a bit too strong even that way.
The only part #'s you really need to know are the Wilwood parts.
The calipers are Wilwood Superlite III's. The Wilwood part # is 120-4100. They are now the replacement for the Superlite IIA's that I used.
The rotors are 12.16" diameter and 1.25" width. Wilwood part #'s 160-2900 (right side) and 160-2901 (left side).
You will need two rotor hats. Their offset will determine where your caliper bracket will be mounted. A smaller offset will move the caliper braket outboard.
The brakes are still working great. Almost too great. I still have the 1LE's up front. I am using the Wilwood prop. valve and I have to have it all the way turned down. The rears are still a bit too strong even that way.
The only part #'s you really need to know are the Wilwood parts.
The calipers are Wilwood Superlite III's. The Wilwood part # is 120-4100. They are now the replacement for the Superlite IIA's that I used.
The rotors are 12.16" diameter and 1.25" width. Wilwood part #'s 160-2900 (right side) and 160-2901 (left side).
You will need two rotor hats. Their offset will determine where your caliper bracket will be mounted. A smaller offset will move the caliper braket outboard.
#53
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Car: 86 Iroc-Z28
Engine: FB385
Transmission: 700r4
Hey, thanks man for getting back to this! Definately a mod i would like to do in the spring when the rear goes in. And hey, if you ever think your brakes are "too" strong, i'll take them off your hands! later
#54
I know this post was long dead. But What is better, the Superlights that were used in this post. Or the Dynalights, that is used in the kit from summit racing that CRace46 (dean???) mentioned...thanks
#55
I know this post was long dead. But What is better, the Superlights that were used in this post. Or the Dynalights, that is used in the kit from summit racing that CRace46 (dean???) mentioned...thanks
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Originally posted by Verviticas
I know this post was long dead. But What is better, the Superlights that were used in this post. Or the Dynalights, that is used in the kit from summit racing that CRace46 (dean???) mentioned...thanks
I know this post was long dead. But What is better, the Superlights that were used in this post. Or the Dynalights, that is used in the kit from summit racing that CRace46 (dean???) mentioned...thanks
It also depends on the piston bore you choose. You could have a single piston floater but if the piston is too large you'll have too much brake in the rear. In other words the model has almost nothing to do with the braking ability and instead focus on the correct piston diameter.
Having 12" superlite 1.75" bore upfront AND rear is going to require too much proportioning like Colt already said he's ended up with . The only time you'd want a setup like his is if you've got a lot of rear traction like a dragster or old can-am style road racer.
Colt, what piston bore did you go with? I've got 1.75" that I'm putting up front but with 13" rotors I have a feeling I'm either going to end up removing the power assist OR move the pedal ratio. I could also go to a smaller diameter piston but that's not how I opperate . Besides, you never know when you'll be installing slicks on all 4 corners .
#57
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Originally posted by JPrevost
Colt, what piston bore did you go with? I've got 1.75" that I'm putting up front but with 13" rotors I have a feeling I'm either going to end up removing the power assist OR move the pedal ratio. I could also go to a smaller diameter piston but that's not how I opperate . Besides, you never know when you'll be installing slicks on all 4 corners .
Colt, what piston bore did you go with? I've got 1.75" that I'm putting up front but with 13" rotors I have a feeling I'm either going to end up removing the power assist OR move the pedal ratio. I could also go to a smaller diameter piston but that's not how I opperate . Besides, you never know when you'll be installing slicks on all 4 corners .
Tom
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I'm working on a front kit now with forged Superlites with a 1.75" diameter pistons although I did consider the 1.38" pistons.
Ed
Ed
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Originally posted by ebmiller88
I'm working on a front kit now with forged Superlites with a 1.75" diameter pistons although I did consider the 1.38" pistons.
Ed
I'm working on a front kit now with forged Superlites with a 1.75" diameter pistons although I did consider the 1.38" pistons.
Ed
What is your plan if you don't mind me asking. I've designed a very detailed spreadsheet in Excel that I could send you. It's got everything you'd ever want, even sheets full of quick lookup data like friction of different pads etc. I was going to public domain it but I can't find a good host for my website.
Also, which superlites?
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
C5 rotors with 1.75" Forged Billet SLs running Hawk HPS pads at the moment, just a test rig so far.
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...-FSL/index.asp
I'd love that file to look at...ebmiller88@aol.com
Ed
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-...-FSL/index.asp
I'd love that file to look at...ebmiller88@aol.com
Ed
#61
Originally posted by JPrevost
Depends on the tires you're running at each corner and the front brakes.
It also depends on the piston bore you choose.
Depends on the tires you're running at each corner and the front brakes.
It also depends on the piston bore you choose.
As for braking. Fist thing im doing is a wilwood prop valve. (i have pbr rears, if i get them working really well, i may not upgrade, but as it stands, they're not very useful) after i sort out the parts already on my car i will upgrade the front to a copy of Spohn's (money is a factor for me, so i cant afford steve's prices when i know i can have the same for cheaper). Piston bored has not been decided. Would there be a piston bore you would suggest With that wheel,tire combo? keeping in mind that i may upgrade the rears as well if there is a large improvement to be made. With that known what would you suggest for both front and rear?
Anyhelp is appriciated.
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Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Do NOT go with the 1.38" for the fronts- I would highly recommend against it. The 1.75's will give you better pressure on the fronts and you will still have to turn down the 1.38"s on the rear with an adj prop valve.
#63
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Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I based my decision based on a few conversations with Dean and other input from others. The 1.75" bore I chose equals 44.45mm. C4 and C5 caliper pistons are 1.5" in diameter, 38.1mm; LS1s are 1.75" in diameter, 44.45mm. IMO, this caliper will work great with the J50 master and either a 1LE or adjustable prop valve, assuming a PBR rear caliper setup. I hope to have it ready for display at the NFME in Memphis in May:
http://www.fbody-event.org/
Ed
http://www.fbody-event.org/
Ed
Last edited by ebmiller88; 03-29-2005 at 05:39 AM.
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Car: 91 Red Sled
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Originally posted by RTFC
Do NOT go with the 1.38" for the fronts- I would highly recommend against it. The 1.75's will give you better pressure on the fronts and you will still have to turn down the 1.38"s on the rear with an adj prop valve.
Do NOT go with the 1.38" for the fronts- I would highly recommend against it. The 1.75's will give you better pressure on the fronts and you will still have to turn down the 1.38"s on the rear with an adj prop valve.
I can't recommend any brake setup because it's a preference thing more than anything. Some people like no pedal force, some like it firm. If you pick some middle grounds on the caliper and rotor you can ALWAYS adjust the feel/ability of the system with different pads.
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Car: Agood2.8,
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Originally posted by JPrevost
How can you say that when you don't even know what size rotor or pad he'd be using?
I can't recommend any brake setup because it's a preference thing more than anything. Some people like no pedal force, some like it firm. If you pick some middle grounds on the caliper and rotor you can ALWAYS adjust the feel/ability of the system with different pads.
How can you say that when you don't even know what size rotor or pad he'd be using?
I can't recommend any brake setup because it's a preference thing more than anything. Some people like no pedal force, some like it firm. If you pick some middle grounds on the caliper and rotor you can ALWAYS adjust the feel/ability of the system with different pads.
point 1-
I am running 13" front rotors, you basically can't get larger.
I am running 12" rear rotors.
Leverage alone makes the fronts more powerful.
point2-
I am running SL-6 (6 piston front calipers) with the same pad surface area as the 4piston superlites.
The 1.75" 4pot superlites have more pressure than my 6pot calipers believe it or not (calculate the piston volume and you will see)
The1.38" superlite calipers have much piston volume which will really reduce pressure bias to the fronts.
Superlite 4 piston 1.75/1.75= 9.60 sq inches
Superlite 6 piston 1.62/1.12/1.12= 8.04 sq inches
Superlite 4 piston 1.38/1.38= 5.98 sq inches
So even with larger leverage front rotors compared to the rears, I still have too much rear brake and need to either increase front pressure, or decrease rear pressure.(in my case, decrease rear becasuse I am not changing calipers)
Now as for pedal feel-
That has nothing to do with the calipers piston size, its got to do with what MC bore you choose, pad surface area, and pad material or compound. I am actualy very pleased with the feel of my stock drum brake MC (I believe its the 13/16" bore, the larger I think is a 7/8" bore from the factory the increase pedal pressure and feel)I thought for certain that the pedal would be too sensitive and I would HAVE to got to a larger bore, but this one works good enough that a change is not needed for now. When this one someday goes out, or if I had my choice when building a new system, I would opt for the larger bore MC but the wife drives this car and she LOVES the feel of them right now with reduced pressure after driving this car for about 12 years with the factory brakes Its not always my choice, its her car.
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