racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Ok, I just finished a major upgrade on my car... major as in pretty much everything in my sig. Now, my problem is that the car pulls to the right when I brake. It was wet out for the test drive today and the only wheel that kept locking up was the passenger side rear. I also hear a clunking sound every time I get on the brakes. Any ideas on what might be the problem? I really don't want to start autocrossing next year and mess up my line every time I get on the brakes.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

the first things that come to mind are bad control arm bushings (the clunking sound) or the brakes need to be bled, which might explain only one wheel locking up.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Usually the sign of a collapsing brake line.

JamesC

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I have UMI poly/rod end LCA's (maybe 200 miles on them) and the A-arm bushings never made any noise before new rear.

Can't be that because all the flexible brake lines were just replaced with Earl's braided lines and the hard lines don't look that rusty.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

New doesn't mean perfect.

JamesC

gunner53227

My car pulled one way also. For me it was the front rotors were a little loose, after time the bearings get some play in them. I could jack my car up and wiggle my wheel and you could hear a clunk. I did not buy new bearing or anything like that, but I took it apart a put new grease in the bearings. It has been working good ever since.

Also check your swaybar endlinks to make sure they did not break.

noahTHEpurdy

iTrader: (1)

Did you just recently swap in a 4th gen rear?

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I swapped in the new rear on Saturday and took it for a test drive on Sunday and heard the noise and noticed the car pulled to the right. However, it is not a 4th gen rear. It's just a 9-bolt 3.27 geared disk brake 3rd gen unit.

Saber

iTrader: (2)

Did your car originally come with disks before you swapped in the new rear? If it did and you swapped out the prop valves correctly than it sounds like a one of your rubber lines is on its way out.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Old (original) rear end:
10-bolt 2.73 drum posi

New (used) rear end:
9-bolt 3.27 disk posi

There are no rubber brake lines anywhere on my car. Everything was replaced with brand new Earl's braided brake lines.

The endlinks are fine.

I'll take another look at them tomorrow morning to see if something looks odd.

CrimsonDragon

Try bleeding your brakes first. If it still pulls then chances are it is your left caliper that is the problem. Your right caliper is stronger thereby pulling to the right.

Saber

iTrader: (2)

did you change the prop valve?

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I haven't changed the prop valve yet. I have two of them to choose from when I get to it, but I just wanted to get the car on the road since it is getting to be about that time when it has to be put away.

I went out this morning and had a friend help me put it on jack stands and then put it in gear and hit the brakes. Turns out one of the pads on the passenger side rear caliper is rubbing against the rotor even when the brakes are not applied. I also noticed that when she slammed on the brakes, the brake pads would slide a little bit and make the clunk sound when the pads hit against the caliper. Another thing I noticed is that the entire rear end was rotating/twisting a little every time the brakes were applied. Is this because the calipers are on opposite sides of the rear end?

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

I dunno if a stuck piston inside the caliper would cause this issue, but maybe. Someone else may be able to confirm if so.

BTW, change out that prop valve, whats the point of swaping to disk and not utilizing all thier potential???

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

i talked to a guy and he said not only the porp valve but master cy on back needs to be swapped

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Check the following:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...fferences.html

JamesC

Saber

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you might need a new caliper, from what i gather you have the old iron ones on there which i dont know if you can rebuild them like the PBRS. ANd you should change the prop valve also.

krisb410

iTrader: (9)

Those calipers are cheap anyways, just go buy a re-maned loaded one.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Based on the context in the link you have shared, it sounds as though I will not need to change out my master cylinder due to the fact that my car is an 87, and not an 82-84 Camaro in which the post dictates.

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I noticed that after driving aggressively my brake fluid reservoir leaks. Is it because the fluid heats up and expands out of the reservoir, or is it just a bad seal? I don't want my new J&M strut mount ruined from the brake fluid dripping on it... I don't think that is covered in the lifetime warranty.

I'm actually beginning to wonder if I should hold off on the prop valve. I'm beginning to think about upgrading to LS1 front brakes and ditching the rear I just installed for a rear from an LS1 car. Anyone have input on about how much that would/should cost and how drastic the difference is?

Saber

iTrader: (2)

You can use the same prop valve for a ls1 car also. Im pretty sure the disk prop valve did not change. You might need an LS1 MC though if you put on LS1 brakes. It wont hurt to change the prop valve, especially if you have one already, or you can go with an adjustable. I would say the Prop valve is your problem, but it could also be a crappy caliper which needs to be replaced. Again, its not going to hurt to change that prop valve, took me about an hour to swap it out and bleed the brakes. And as for your resivour leaking is the gasket sealed completly? even when the fluid heats up it should not expand out of the resivour all over your strut mount. Thats not right.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I'll be putting the car away probably within the week because of all the snow us northern folk get. It isn't really the snow, more so the salt. Anyway, I am thinking of putting LS1 brakes on the front in the spring so I plan on swapping the prop valve then. If I don't for some reason get LS1 front brakes I still plan on changing the prop valve at that time.

I'm thinking I didn't bleed the brakes right because I tried to do a brake stand today and the car just wouldn't stay still. It kept going forward slowly.

Saber

iTrader: (2)

There could be air in the lines. We always overlook the small things lol.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Oh I forgot to comment on the leaking of the brake fluid reservoir. I think it is that big gasket seal thing that covers the entire bottom of the cover. Every time I take off the cover I find it partially submerged in the fluid. I guess I'll stop by Autozone and pick up a new one for $5.99... it's nice having it across the street from school.

djamel

I think there is some loose caliper on the left side thus pulling your car to the right. You need to replace it with a new caliper and your prop valves seems to have a problem.

JohnBlazeLTZ

Not sure if the design is similar to my Caprice but sometimes if one of the front dics brake lugs is too tight and the other is too loose...my Cappy will pull to one of the sides. Usually I will have to go back and re-tighten them as close as possible to each other and the problem goes away.

FYRCHKN

I'm having the same exact problem. Last Saturday I swapped the 9 bolt back into my car since gas has dropped below $2. Sunday I took it for a drive and it pulls to the right while cruising down the road, but stops straight when I hit the brakes. The day before it drove perfectly straight with the 10 bolt.

I had it under the car for about a month back in the spring with no issues other than a little whine.

gregsz-28

iTrader: (1)

this might help... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...ulls-side.html