Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I know all of the physical differences in size of the LS1 and C5 front brake setups. 12.75" VS 12". C5 calipers are a little stronger. The larger brake rotors allow for more torque for stopping because they are farther out. I know all of that.

My question is is what are the braking differences between the LS1 and C5 brake setups? C5 should be a little better, but how much better? Are we talking a stopping difference of 5' or 20'? Do the C5 brakes run dramatically cooler? Does anyone know of a braking table for those year corvettes?

Desert86Roc

Dont know if anyone has actual numbers, but I went from stock to LS1, and felt a nice difference. I then went from LS1 to C5, and let me tell you....dramatic difference. Of course I opted for ceramic pads and slotted cross drilled rotors too, so that could account for some of the difference.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I have been looking for a while for this info. the numbers for a corvette for 70-0 braking distances with a c5 packaging has been in the mid to low 150's.
Still looking for the C4 data, or the 98+ F-body data.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Found more C5 data. This is from a few different magazines I found.
60-0 in 105-108'
70'-0 in 148-156'
100-0 in 292-312'


C4 I am seeing
60-0 in 110-125'
80-0 in 218'
70-0 in 158-172


C6 I am getting:
100'-0 in 281'
80'-0 in 198'
70'-0 in 146'
60'-0 in 98-110''

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

98+ F-body cars I am getting
60'-0 in 129' The article that I found this in had the corvete C5 braking 60'-0 in 123' !! This seems high for a corvette judging from all of the other numbers I found


04 GTO
60'-0 in 134'

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

So I guess after finding out all of that I would only get the c5's if you already have 17"+ wheels or found a sweet deal on the C5's and where running autocross or the like.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Going from stock to either one you will see a whale of a difference. Going from LS1 to C5 you wouldn't see much at all. Installing drilled rotors and better pads will cause a difference though. The C5 is a stronger caliper so if you can go with those, do it.

Ed

FIRECHICKEN

iTrader: (3)

I remember the first time I laid into the new C5 binders I installed after the brake in period. I beleive a bruised my brain it stopped so hard. It was like throwing out and anchor. These brakes can easily lock the tires. Now to get an adjustable prop valve to dial in the rears.

Trust Ed he know his shiznitt!!!!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

What brakes did you have before/to start with?

FIRECHICKEN

iTrader: (3)

I had the POS stock iron crappers. I was going to install a 13" track kit from Baer I had but I decided to go with the 05 Z06 calipers with the PC red paint and ease of parts replacements. I did use baers aluminum hubs though and the braided lines. I have more stopping powere than go power now. Oh well.

Comp788

How much different are the Bear hubs from the Wilwood hubs?

FIRECHICKEN

iTrader: (3)

I can't really tell you anyhting about the Willwood hubs. I can tell you that the Baer hubs are modeled after the 1LE hubs. They are made from a super light weight material, aluminum I am thinking. Also Baer custom made their wheel studs for these hubs. You cannot get any replacements anywhere else. It has larger bearings than the stockers too. That is why I used them.

Comp788

So they are probably using the 1LE bearings just like the Wilwoods. Are they the 12mm wheels studs? I will be changing mine to 1/2" studs. If they are light weight material I am sure that they are aluminum. I was looking at making some Billet hubs but the guy at Brembo said to use a forged aluminum hub as it will be stronger then Billet.

Thanks for the reply also.

P.S. How do you like your busa? I love my 05

FIRECHICKEN

iTrader: (3)

Yes, They use 1LE bearings. Yes, the studs are 12mm threads but the Knurl is larger than stock studs. Unfortunately the studs only come in stock length so you only get about 5-7 threads. If you have the money I would just get a hub made from a set of 1LE rotors and install ARP studs in a longer length. There might be some caliper clearence issues with the 1Le hubs but nothing some spacer can't handle.

The BUSA scares the shiznit out of me still. I have only had her 1 1/2 seasons so far. I went from a 600 Katana to the Limited Edition Busa I have now. YOU GOTTA RESPECT THE BIKE!!!!! Just knowing you are faster than anyhting else on the road is good enough for now, no reason to die proving it. I have had it to just shy of 160 though. Holy crap was that a rush.


Later

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

How much are teh Baer hubs?

Comp788

Thanks for the input. I am looking at options now. I'll let you know what I find out when it is all figured out.

Well sounds as if your ahead of the game with your Busa. Half the battle it to know up front to respect the bike!! I have had mine over 165 twice. Once in the day time and the other at night. Both times were insane. I also made some laps at the local raceway down the 1/4 mile. It went 10.39 @ 142 mph in stock trim. It will go faster I am just gun shy of higher RPM launches at the track. If I want to go fast I'll just take out my dragster.

Ride safe!

FIRECHICKEN

iTrader: (3)

I do not know how much the Hubs would be by their self. Nor do I know if they even sell them that way. I procured mine from a used Track kit. I took the pieces I wanted and used C5 stuff for the rest.


10.39 is pretty good. I think they are rated at 9.94 with a pro rider. I heard of ratchet strapping down the front suspension so the bike won't want to wheelie as much on the hard launches. I never raced mine yet. Just a little stop light to stop light with the euro exotics and the suped up ricers around here. Man those twin turbo Mercedes are quick.

Keep the shiney sides up!!

Comp788

I have done a couple of mods (exhaust & power commander) since my trip to the track. I am sure that it will dip into the 9's now. But it is just mostly to commute to work and go play on the weekends with. I have read a buch on Hayabusa.org about mods to make it fly but it has plenty of power for me. I did exhaust first but then it had a very minor miss. So I put the power commander on it and it was back to not missing a beat.