Gummie

I did the J65/PBR rear brake conversion a while ago but never replaced the old cables with newer ones. I recently bought new cables (the rear two, not the front one) but it looks like they're about an inch too long. I installed them today and tightened the cable adjuster all the way. I only start to feel some tension when I have the parking break lever pulled up about 4/5 of the way up and it does nothing to stop the car from rolling. Is there any place that sells the crimp on ends to parking break cables? I could easily just crimp new ends onto the cable adjuster side about an inch down and cut off the excess to fix the problem.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts/ideas.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The e-brake cables are from CarQuest (P/N BRK 8788, 1st design, 1434 mm). The original GM cable is discontinued (GM P/N 10164125). I had to use a Dremel to slightly enlarge the retangular slot on the caliper end of the cable to make it fit the parking brake lever. Two minutes work.

JamesC

Gummie

These are brand new cables designed for the J65 option code purchased from NAPA (the closest CarQuest is a decent drive away). I had to enlarge the holes a little on the caliper end just as you have to do with the CarQuest cables. Everything went great until I pulled the e-break lever and only felt tension in the very top of the pull. Since the cables work in every other way (outer sleeve is the correct length, right end on the caliper side, etc) and are already paid for/installed I wanted to try to salvage them instead of going through the hassle of buying/installing another set. New ends, if you can purchase them, would be the perfect solution. I could crimp them onto the cable a little bit closer than the current ends and everything would work perfectly. The only problem is that I don’t know where you could buy the ends from. Maybe a custom cycle shop or something along those lines. Maybe some company even custom makes cables like these and could sell me a set.

I’m well aware of the CarQuest cables but I assumed that the NAPA ones would be the same thing. The damage is done and I would like to try to salvage what I have.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Have you tried adjusting the cable tension adjustment under the car in the trans tunnel? Your '88 will have this, '91 and newer will not. Piece of cake, read how to do it in this link, pics and all. I had to do it to my '88 when I did my swap, odds are you need to do the same thing:

Yahoo! Photos - taramiller72's Photos - Camaro Rearend Install

Don't hack up your new parts just yet.

Ed

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

JamesC

Gummie

Already tightened it all the way I really need to be able to tighten it down an extra 1/2" or so but there isn't enough room on the bolt (it's not long enough).

I found two solutions to the problem. The first comes from sail boating. Since they have to make a lot of custom cables, they have a tool that can do what I want. I forgot the name but it starts with an s. The downside is that the tool alone is about $140 so that's out. Seeking to save myself some money I went to the local custom shop and asked if they had any ideas. I found out that there’s a company out there selling parking break cables that you cut to the length you need, both sleeve and actual cable, for hotrodding purposes. They have some sort of fastening system that works well and requires no special tools. I had them order me a set and as soon as I have them in my hands (wednesday) I will be sure to post more info (brand name, pictures, etc). They’re 50 state legal, which has to mean something. Hopefully they will work. If not I will just return them and make the drive over to CarQuest.

My problem still bothers me some. There are only so many companies out there that make parking break cables - I’m surprised that the NAPA cables are different than the CarQuest cables.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

So you need to be able to move the adjuster lever up even further? Try this: Go to Lowe's and in the big drawers of their fastener department, they will have some steel sleeves of various lengths and diameters. Slip one of those over the bolt between your nut and lever and that should work unless you see something I don't. Good luck!

Which cable company is that? Lokar? Just curious.

Ed

Gummie

That's a great idea Ed but I'm not sure that it will work. Allow me to explain.

I have about an inch worth of thread left on the adjuster bolt. The bracket that the two cables attach to is hitting the spot where the thread comes to an end and the cable begins. This isn't letting me tighten the bolt any further. I could always drill the bracket out but I don’t want one of the ends to rest on the cable that goes to the parking brake handle because I’m afraid it would eventually wear through.

To steal your picture:



As for the company, I’m not 100% sure and the invoice is less than helpful. I will find out on Wednesday when the parts arrive and will post more info. If you can think of more possible fixes in the mean time be sure to post them

Gummie

Bump with more info.

link: http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/..._concables.htm

No need for me to take pictures if they're already online. I purchased the universal with the black sleeve. This looks like the ideal solution because I can route the cables however I want. Whoever installed the exhaust for the PO did a horrible job running the pipe and the cable constantly comes into contact with it. The only problem is that the ends terminate with beads, not the loops I need for the PBR cables. I think that I can make it work by making my own clevis or by buying theirs and making the hole bigger.

12boogie

Gummie, do this with your Lokar universal adapter block.

Gummie

Excellent post

I've got a few questions for you though. How did you secure the two cables to the car? Just drill through the tunnel and install bolts? Also, does this mean that the fitting box has the same thread as the current adjuster bolt? Looks like a nice install but a bit of a PITA to get set up right.

12boogie

The cables are secured to the undercarraige at various increments using Earls cushioned tubing clamps and short self taping sheet metal screws.

I drilled out the center thread of the adapter blockso the factory cable slip-fits into it and the adjuster nut went on behind it holding just as it did on the factory cable wing.

Gummie

Cool. Drilling out the thread makes a lot of sense for adjustability. Thanks for the info One final question: what rear brakes do you have and how did you get the cables to work there?

12boogie

Not stock.
Rears are Wilwood 4piston 12.19x.81 2pc rotors with internal LS1 style drum parking brake.
I use Wilwood Clevis adapters from Lokar.

Fronts are Wilwood 6piston 12.90"x1.25" 2pc rotors with aluminum hubs,alum brackets and alum hubcenttric pressfit wheel spacers. Hubs also fitted with 1.2" x 2.970" ARP racing studs


PS; Hi Ed, Its Dean (obviously now- playing the ol' name change game again and again)

Gummie

Haha, hi Dean. I've read a quite a few posts of yours in my searching of the forum and you generally post awesome info.

Do you know anything about their clevises for other vehicles? I'm thinking about buying a pair of the explorer/corvette style and drilling them out (if necessary) to try to make them work with my PBR calipers. Just trying to figure out if there's enough material there to work with or if I should just start off by trying to make my own out of some sheet metal.

12boogie

Here is a top view of my clevis. Mine is a hook style with a cotterpin going through the clevis. The actuator lever is a hook that the pinned clevis is slipped onto then pinned. It looks kind of like it could slip off, but it can't.

I am not familiar with any of the other style E-brake clevis'. I have Ford 84-86 SVO (Mustang) rear calipers on my Chev truck with a Currie 9" also with Lokar cables and Clevis' and that are identical to this other than the SVO caliper has a hole that the cotter pin inserts into on the actuator lever rather than a hook style pictures in red markings.

12boogie

Here's a shot of my truck rears with the Mustang SVO calipers. Same Clevis' as the ones I used in the above pic of my Camaro.

Gummie

The PBR style look exactly like your red outline. I guess I will give that style a shot before I try to hack the vette version. Thanks for being willing to go and take pictures of the SVO calipers for me.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

There he is..hello Dean.. thanks for the help there Boogie man.

Ed

12boogie

We all get it done together.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

OK, someone clear this up for me...how the heck does the cable end fit in to the clevis? I've been looking into them for the LS1 cables and I don't see how the cable end can fit through the hole in the clevis and still be retained. Is there a slot for the cable or something?

I'm missing something here but I don't know what yet..help.

Ed