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have to push the brake to the floor for the breaks to work

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Old 04-17-2006, 12:25 PM
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Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
have to push the brake to the floor for the breaks to work

is this common, ok here are a couple things that happened in the last week or so.

changed cam to 240/246 duration 112 lobe separation .520/.542 lift with 1.6 rockers.

changed to lowering springs so rotors/pads/caliper were off the car and break line was moved around to get new struts in.

the rotors/pads/calipers have less then 500 miles.

my brother opened the cap on the brake fluid under the hood, and now you push on it sounds like air is in there, will this affect the breaks?

thanks for any help, it wasnt like this about 2 weeks ago.
Old 04-17-2006, 12:31 PM
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Air in the Lines, also you may need a vacuum cannister to help out with that cam.
Old 04-17-2006, 12:48 PM
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Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
yah you can't have air in the lines the idea of a hydraulic system is #1 fluids are incompressible, #2 equil pressure throughout the system.

With air in the lines you lose the 2 most important parts.

Same idea with air pockets in antifreeze/water air doesn't do the job quite like the fluids do hehe.

G/l and btw it's probably a good idea to change your brake fluid as brake fluid absorbs water over time and frankly my 1992 without being changed yet looks super nasty and is next up on my list.
Old 04-17-2006, 02:01 PM
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Car: 86 Monte Carlo
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Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
is it a big job to bleed the brakes and change the fluid?
Old 04-17-2006, 02:52 PM
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Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
easy job and can take 1 to two people depending how you do it.
on the caliper itself there is a little nipple to bleed the fluid. you loosen the nipple up push the brake to the floor and then have your buddy (who you paid with a 6pack right?) tighten the nipple back up. after it's tight pump the peddle some more push and hold to the floor. buddy loosens nipple while you keep pushing when it brake hits the floor have him tighten back up.

few things to keep in mind you start at the caliper FURTHEST from the master cylinder and move close from there. so it would be pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.

pump the brake till it's nice and firm. and once ou hold it do not let off the brake untill you buddy tightens the nipple back up

KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR FLUID.

don't move on to the next caliiper untill the one you are bleeding quits spitting air out. you will know the difference air in the lines will sputter out and spray everywhere. pure fluid will just run in a nice stream that holds together better then taking a ****. don't stop till it is a steady stream comming out.


the one person method works but isn't as easy and takes a lot more time. if you have to do it that way I can explain it though but this is the preffered way.
Old 04-17-2006, 03:13 PM
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As he stated "KEEP AN EYE ON YOUR FLUID" never let the masted cylinder even come close to emptying or you are in a world of hurt.
Old 04-17-2006, 04:16 PM
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Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
ill have my brother or a friend help me.

it sounds easy enough, just unloosen the niple on the calipers pump the brakes til steady stream of fluid comes out, keep the brake to the floor until he tightens it back up, and move onto the next one.

about the fluid getting low, is this brake fluid container under the hood that i should check to see if it gets low?

also if it goes, can i just take off the cap and fill it up? isnt that how i got air in there in the first place...
Old 04-17-2006, 10:04 PM
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Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
little backwards here

while the nipple is tight pump up the brakes till firm. once firm push hard. while your pushing have him loosen the nipple and your pedal will go to the floor. hold it till he tightens the nipple back up.

if you let that pedal come off the floor while the nipple is loose you suck air into the lines which is what you are trying to avoid.

pump then hold the brakes to the floor.
friend loosens the nipple. don't have to take it off just make it loose.
pedal goes to floor hold it there.
friend tightens the nipple
once tight let off floor

you keep repeating over till the fluid comes out in a steady stream then move on to the next caliper

yes the brake fluid thing under the hood next to the brake booster is what you check for fluid. you go through it quick so keep an eye out.
Old 04-18-2006, 09:44 AM
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Car: 86 Monte Carlo
Engine: Blown 489
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" 370s
ok so just pump the brakes til they are firm, then hold to the floor, THEN he will unloosen the niple, he leaves it unloosen til there is a steady flow of brake fluid.

thanks man, im handicap when it comes to brakes, lol. need it explained pretty clearly.
Old 04-18-2006, 08:53 PM
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Car: 2005 BMW 545i
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Transmission: 6spd auto
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he leaves it loose till the brake goes to the floor once you touch the floor with the brakes he tightens it up then you let off the brake pump up again hold he loosens it foot goes to floor.
do that over and over till fluid comes out smooth
you will prolly have to do it more then once. and don't worry I was more fairly much a car retard more so then your showing at one point. and a little bit of a ***** at that. but don't let those here know that
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