Homemade Line Lock
#2
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Actually, it's in the line to the front brakes, isn't it? So it can lock the front brakes (at least on a rear wheel drive car) so you can spin the rears while not moving? (to warm the tires, generate smoke, tear up tires, whatever )
#4
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,682
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From: Orange, CA
Car: '90 Trans Am-12.45@110.71
Engine: 355 w/AFR 195's Elem. 400/430 HP/TQ
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 3.73
If you can find a solenoid that has a fluid passage that you can hook the brake lines to then all you need is a button to operate it.
#5
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
You can buy the sam biondo line lock for $40 from summit. It's just the line lock, no fittings, wiring, switch, etc. You don't have to worry about wiring in a light, your brake light will come on when you use it.
#6
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Amsterdam , NY
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: vee eight
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 4.10 gears
just buy a kit, i knw my grandfather made one for my dad i forget what the valve was from . i just got the hurst kit and it works great , it totally wrecks my tires and now i dont use it since the tires are so soft.
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#10
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From: Menominee MI
alright i'll do that...just get the hole hurst control install kit then? so you can just hook it up under the hood, that sounds easier...does it hook into the front or back lines? i guess i'm just a little confused on how it works...i thought it just totally shuts off fluid to the rear lines, but i guess not...
#11
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Minnesota
Car: 86 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 305 LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I believe it works by building up more pressure to the front brakes so you can build RPMs when youre on the line without moving(get a better launch). and also so you can spin the debris off the tires when you warm them up while pre-staging without doing a brake stand. Then you just hit the button or switch when you want it off (when you launch) so you have no pressure.
edit: this is off of Jeg's "Used primarily for drag racing to provide positive locking action to the front wheels of race cars, reducing the chance of ''Rolling the Lights'' and producing more effective burn outs for heating up the tires."
edit: this is off of Jeg's "Used primarily for drag racing to provide positive locking action to the front wheels of race cars, reducing the chance of ''Rolling the Lights'' and producing more effective burn outs for heating up the tires."
Last edited by JDubya18; 09-21-2005 at 02:29 PM.
#12
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From: Menominee MI
oh cool...so it will give me added brake pressure...thats a plus...right now, my car just wants to go, and brakes are having a problem holding it...when it sits there at idle, its wierd it just like surges and lunges and just wants to jump...it gets annoying trying to sit there and hold the brake...i think a higher stall torque converter will lessen that too, because the converter will absorb more of the low rpm power..
#13
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
No it doesn't give you more brake pressure. The line lock only keeps the front brakes from releasing after you release the pedal.
#14
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Yeah, Apeiron is right. It is a very simple system once you know what it does. you can picture it in your head easily.
When you press the pedal all the brakes close.....
You push the button, and release the pedal.....
The pressure from the back brakes leaves as allways, but the little solenoid up front is shut and won't let the front brakes let go. Thats it. Rear is free to spin, front stays put.
When you press the pedal all the brakes close.....
You push the button, and release the pedal.....
The pressure from the back brakes leaves as allways, but the little solenoid up front is shut and won't let the front brakes let go. Thats it. Rear is free to spin, front stays put.
#15
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From: Menominee MI
i see..thats just the thing i didn't understand it...but i got it now...press the pedal, fills the calipers all up with fluid, then the solenoid traps the fluid just in the front ones, while the pressure is released from the back brakes...allowing for a nice smokey burnout...
one more question, does it matter where you put it? is there better places to put it or what?
one more question, does it matter where you put it? is there better places to put it or what?
#16
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
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From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Do you meen in the system? or on the car?
With relation to the car, you can put it anywhere. But longer lines usually meen more places for stuff to go wrong. Under the hood is best. Close to the brake booster.
As for in relation to the brake system, yes there is a certain location that it must be installed.
Inbetween the booster and the main front brake line. Just make sure the rear brake lines are not effected and you will be fine.
It comes with instructions. It is all very straight forward.
With relation to the car, you can put it anywhere. But longer lines usually meen more places for stuff to go wrong. Under the hood is best. Close to the brake booster.
As for in relation to the brake system, yes there is a certain location that it must be installed.
Inbetween the booster and the main front brake line. Just make sure the rear brake lines are not effected and you will be fine.
It comes with instructions. It is all very straight forward.
#18
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From: Amsterdam , NY
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: vee eight
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 4.10 gears
the hurst costs the most but is rebuildable , and is probably the best for you to get if you dont really know whats involved, you could do it much cheaper if you got just the valve but then you need to know some stuff and have some parts to finish it off.
#19
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
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From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
I really have no idea what is the best one is. There is not really much involved so I dunno if there is a "best".
I have personally used HURST before and seen it is cars, street cars. That is what I am going to go with.
I have personally used HURST before and seen it is cars, street cars. That is what I am going to go with.
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