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need help converting to -3an brake line!!

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Old 04-10-2005, 09:37 PM
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need help converting to -3an brake line!!

I'm replacing the hard brake lines on the rear of my 89 iroc. I'm looking for an adapter that I can use to adapt a -3an from the tee that attaches to the rear end housing. I think it will be a male 10mm x1.0 to -3an fitting male but im not sure. Has anyone ever done this? Have any ideas or part numbers? I seen many fittings that have those specs but they don't specify if they are for the european bubble flare lines that we have. Please help me out!!!
Old 04-11-2005, 06:20 AM
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What are you actually doing? It sounds to me like you're doing WAY more work than you need to be.

The correct way to do this, is to buy made-up brake line sets from Earl's, and be done with it.
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Old 04-11-2005, 07:45 PM
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Im doing this because i put in a mosier 12-bolt and 93-97 brakes and backing plates and none of the factory setup is the correct length. So my plan is to use the stock rubber hose with the tee on it, put two of those adapters into the tee, run a female to female -3an line to a square banjo fitting directly on the caliper. This will also eliminate the use of the rubber lines that used to go to the calipers from the hard line.(Since now the calipers are in a different location than stock.
Old 04-11-2005, 10:24 PM
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You can not run that long of sections of braided lines in your brake system without seeing a dramatic drop in pedal pressure. Even braided lines are not as firm as hardlines. You will need to route hardlines off the center tee-block towards the calipers then route as small of length braided lines from that point on to the calipers.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=283554
Old 04-12-2005, 06:18 PM
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I am curious to know why there is a pressure drop? Did you read that somewhere or know from personal experience. No one has ever told me that so im glad you did. At what length is it "too long" to run braided?
Old 04-13-2005, 11:02 PM
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I could see that. A braided steel line is still rubber so it will flex a bit, just not nearly as much as plain rubber line. This will be more noticeable in longer lengths of hosing. You're best off buying a Earl's brake line kit and making your own hardlines. I had to remake my own hardlines on my '98 rear since I was converting it from a 4-channel ABS setup to our stock setup for lines (the T-block). Just do that. Go to a parts store and find the brake line that will fit into the T-block, and get whatever length you need.
Old 04-13-2005, 11:08 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but teflon-lined hose must be used with brake fluid as well?
Old 04-14-2005, 02:49 AM
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Originally posted by irocz43
I am curious to know why there is a pressure drop? Did you read that somewhere or know from personal experience. No one has ever told me that so im glad you did. At what length is it "too long" to run braided?
Any brake expert can confirm its a very well knwn fact that if you were to try and setup a car with a system entirely made up of only steel braided lines (no hardlines) that the pedal pressure would feel like mush. Its the garden hose effect, too much soft lines will allow swell and absorb pedal pressure.

Braided lines replacing factory rubber lines show a significant improvement in pedal pressure, but they still don't hold a firm anti-swell property that hardlines do. Allowing for "normal" lengths of softlines is acceptable and manditory with any vehicle, just do not plan on replacing any section of hardlines with braided or you are going back in reverse when trying to improve pedal feel.
Old 04-14-2005, 11:23 PM
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
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I agree with what your saying, but can tell you from personal experience when I first bolted my 9" in, all I had locally was a 48" section of -3 and 36" section of the same to go from my T to the calipers until I could get the rights ones....under the gun so to speak so did what I had to.

I drove it this way for quite awhile, dont know if it's the fact I added a vacuum canister, but my brakes have never been better. No mushy pedal, just firm brakes that stop better than anything I've ever had on teh car before, might be becasue I now have 11" rear rotors, but no mush from the long braided.

So from experience, you'll be fine running the braided from the T to the calipers, I would'nt and do not suggest plumbing the ntire brake system that way however.
Old 04-15-2005, 07:50 AM
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Yeah thats the only braided im running is from the T to the Calipers. I Still have the hard line comming all the way back. Where are you at in Iowa IHI? Im in the quad cities
Old 04-15-2005, 01:47 PM
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Waterloo up here. Pass through your area twice a year for World Series in Cordova and then ET finals there as well.

That's the way my car is also, all factory lines everywhere except off the T on rear end housing, from the T it's all braided and man it sure is nice to work on if your ever have to disassemble anything.
Old 04-17-2005, 10:27 PM
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I just did this to mine, i put in a Stragn 12 bolt with 97 Z28 brakes 11.5" rotors. Left the stock brake line comming from the master cylinder to the back T, then ran 3/16s brake line from wheel to wheel, connected to the calipers with an earls 10" brake line, used -3an tube nuts on the 3/16s line, very easy to do.. As i said 3/16s brake line, cut and bend to length, slip on the -3an tube nut and sleeve, flare the end using a double flaring tool and connect. easy as 1-2-3.. All my fittings were purchased from Aeroquip.. To connect the 3/16s line to the T all u need are two 10mm to -3an converstions, put 10mm ends in either end of the T obviously and connect the -3an side to either the right or left brake line.





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