Hi Guy’s

Ok huge amounts of confusion here let me start with the story. I’ve got a standard 1991 3.1 Firebird with the standard single piston caliper brake set up. When I bought the car both steering and breaking have been straight. But over the last year I’ve noticed a slight constant pull to the left whilst driving. Concurrent with that under medium to heavy breaking the car pulls back to the right and then breaks in a straight line. The cars not been crashed and I’m sure everything is ok with the suspension and steering, and both tires are wearing normally across the whole width.
On looking at the breaks I’ve noticed that the drivers (Left) side disc has quite a grove running round the circumference. When I took the car for it’s M.O.T. the garage people said that the flexible break pipe on that side was twisted also and could be a source for the uneven breaking. My car is only used for six out of the twelve months due to the British weather and I’m wondering if corrosion in the piston could be a contributing factor as well due to a lack of use.

Finding both rotors quite corroded last year gave me the idea of changing the breaks for new units (Caliper, rotors, bearings, pads, flexible hoses etc) as I’m slowly replacing all old parts on the car for new anyway. So if the problem lies in these parts I’m hoping this might clear it. If anyone has any other ideas about what the above problem could be I’d be grateful to hear.

Anyway, I’ve looked through a few sites selling break parts and I’m confused about the difference in a rotor or caliper being 1LE or not 1LE whats the difference? Are the parts interchangeable? One site sells rotors that are “Front w/ ILE” but sells calipers that are “Original GM front disc brake calipers for 1982-92 Firebird except 1LE, Y84, and 1989 20th Anniversary models” Does this mean that you need to buy only 1LE rotors and calipers, or are they interchangeable?

Although I can do minor mechanics I’m no wizard and would just like to do a simple swap taking my old breaks off and putting new ones on, If anyone knows of any companies that provide a full break kit and can ship to the uk I’d love to know.

All the best Speed.

 

The typical brake system is single piston iron calipers with 10.5 inch rotors. The 1LE front is dual piston alum calipers with 11.7 in rotors. Not interchangeable without modification to the front spindles. The rears are single piston alum calipers with, I believe, the 11.7 in rotors. Not interchangeable without modification. Note Spohn banner on this site for the 1LE front kit. Check the following link for pics and info:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=246768

JamesC

 

If you have a 6-cyl car, you don't have 1LE. So it's not an issue. Don't even worry about it. If something has a choice "1LE" and "all except 1LE", go for "all except". It will often be labelled something like "high-perf" or "optional". Doesn't matter, your car doesn't have anything optional; it'll be the single-piston front calipers, and drum rears.

The brake pull is the flexible hose on the left. It's rusted inside, and fluid pressure can't escape in between brake uses, so the left brake stays mostly applied all the time. And, fluid can't get through quickly when you do apply the brakes, so the right brake works much better at first, so the car pulls to the right, until enough fluid eeeeks through the blockage to make the left one start working.

In general, the brakes on these cars are REALLY REALLY EASY to work on. I don't know of anyone that sells a "kit"; but on this side of the pond, new (not rebuilt!) calipers are less than $20 apiece, from every corner parts store (they're so cheap because they're the same calipers that fit virtually all other GM cars and trucks from the late 60s to the early 90s). You can get high-quality rotors for about $75, and braided stainless steel brake line kits from Earl's (those are the ones to get, rather than the Russell) are about $70 or so. You should be able to order all that stuff from Summit. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...AR%2D28A180ERL Wheel bearings and grease seals shouldn't be too hard to obtain, they fit alot of other cars (not just American ones) in addition to these.

 

Hi RB83L69 & JamesC,

Thanks a lot for the help that’s eased my worries a little. I know most people would prefer to change to the 1LE set up or better as I’m sure these are the best to go for, but as my car is used so little and it only ever does 15mph (cruising!) I’d like to keep it as original as possible. So the factory breaks are the ones I’m going to stick with.
Now I know what I’m looking for, I’ve not got time to check out the site you recommended RB so I’ll have a look tomorrow but thanks for that anyway.

You guy’s don’t know how lucky you are for buying parts over there. We really are ripped off over here, if I wanted to by breaks for my other car (discs, calipers, pads etc) I’d be looking at spending nearly $1400! In your money.

Anyway glad I’ve got a bit of the states over here, all the best and thanks again.

Speed.