Trunk Hatch Stuck Open?
#1
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Trunk Hatch Stuck Open?
I have a 91 RS Camaro Convertible. The other day, I was working on my car and I opened the trunk to get some tools. When I went to go close the trunk, maybe 30 mins later, the trunk locked into place but the electronic motor didn't lower down. In fact, it made no sound at all. There have been times in the past when this has happened, and all I had to do was unlock the trunk, press down in the center of the locking mechanism with a key, and it would lower itself and come back up. (kind of reseting it and then it would work when I tried to close it again) Now, I try and put my key (or finger) down into the latch, and it doesn't make a sound or move at all. Any ideas? (please be detailed!)
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
#3
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Sounds like either one of two things:
1) Your hatch motor finally died. Replace it with one from a wrecking yard. '91 and '92 use a different style then earlier years.
2) You have a wiring connector that keeps coming loose, or a short in a wire. Since you've had an intermittent problem in the past, I would check for this first.
1) Your hatch motor finally died. Replace it with one from a wrecking yard. '91 and '92 use a different style then earlier years.
2) You have a wiring connector that keeps coming loose, or a short in a wire. Since you've had an intermittent problem in the past, I would check for this first.
#4
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
mine did that, there is a relay in there, when you take the rear panel off, you will see it, disconnect it, and check for the connectors for corrosion.
#5
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Dude, I've had the same problem... You need to first check the fuse (labeled "LID"), then if thats ok, remove the panel in the hatch and take a look at the wiring. See if everything seems to be hooked up. If the wiring isn't your problem then unbolt it from your hatch, diconnect the wires and go sit somewhere and take it apart, piece by piece. Some common problems are : 1) The motor is dead, which can be expensive to replace. 2) the switch is bad (looks like a small black box) 3) it could be that the cheap clear plastic housing is cracked 4) The cheap plastic gears could be stripped 5) The cheap plastic pieces that help guide the assembly up and down in the tracks could be broken.
In my experience, I've had to replace the motor, (which came from the dealership with a new plastic housing for $90) and the switch ($20). Note also that I'm dealing with a hatch assembly from a 1991 camaro and there are different types of assemblies for other model years. Also, if you do start to take it apart, you may want to buy some white lithium grease from advance auto or some place like that so you can re-grease it while putting it back together.
I'm no expert, this is just my two cents worth. Hope this helps.
In my experience, I've had to replace the motor, (which came from the dealership with a new plastic housing for $90) and the switch ($20). Note also that I'm dealing with a hatch assembly from a 1991 camaro and there are different types of assemblies for other model years. Also, if you do start to take it apart, you may want to buy some white lithium grease from advance auto or some place like that so you can re-grease it while putting it back together.
I'm no expert, this is just my two cents worth. Hope this helps.
#6
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Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
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Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
I have an extra one here if you want it, its the smaller one for the a 92. I am not sure if this is true for ALL 91's but I owned an early 91 Formula and it had the earlier style large metal pull down. I snagged a pulldown from a 92, thought it would work, but it did not. so make sure...
e-mail me if you have the smaller one or if you want pix. i really have no need for it... Now that I think 'bout it I will have to find it... I assume it works, never tried it..
okfoz@yahoo.com
John
e-mail me if you have the smaller one or if you want pix. i really have no need for it... Now that I think 'bout it I will have to find it... I assume it works, never tried it..
okfoz@yahoo.com
John
#7
Hatch Motor
I have an 87 Formula 350 and this happens a lot. I think it's basically an alignment problem due to the deterioration of the slide guides because I can always get it to work by jacking the mechanism around. You have to be careful closing the hatch - every time! And if it slams closed on you in cold weather this will screw it up.
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#8
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Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
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Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
here is the difference between the early and late hatch pull downs. the one on the left came out of a 92, the one on the right is the early style...
hope that helps
hope that helps
#10
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Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
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Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
I had to make a set.
there is someone out there who makes replacement ones, but I do not remember where.
John
there is someone out there who makes replacement ones, but I do not remember where.
John
#13
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Posts: 14,242
Received 170 Likes
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Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
thanks "guy"...errr...um I mean Lon... :sillylol:
John
John
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