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I have front end damage with my 1989 5.7L Trans Am. State Farm will cover. See attached. I live in Batavia, IL. I hope a body shop can return this rare bird to it’s former glory.
With that damage and the cost of a great body shop I'd be blown away if they didn't total it. They don't value old/collector cars like we do.
I'm a bit south of you so I cant really help with a shop but if you are serious about fixing that I'd start buying parts yourself and be ready when and if you find somebody that will take it on. I assume it would need to be put on a frame rack, judging by the core support damage, if only to check it. The rest of the front end is bolt on stuff you can do yourself if you are scrappy with a screwdriver.
What happened anyway? Looks like you ran under the back of a semi trailer!
With that damage and the cost of a great body shop I'd be blown away if they didn't total it. They don't value old/collector cars like we do.
I'm a bit south of you so I cant really help with a shop but if you are serious about fixing that I'd start buying parts yourself and be ready when and if you find somebody that will take it on. I assume it would need to be put on a frame rack, judging by the core support damage, if only to check it. The rest of the front end is bolt on stuff you can do yourself if you are scrappy with a screwdriver.
What happened anyway? Looks like you ran under the back of a semi trailer!
It looks like I may have found a body shop, south suburbs. I am having it towed there for State Farm adjuster and body shop to work together on final quote. Stay tuned. I am trying to stay positive. Damage appears NOT to have reached any suspension or engine. Early estimate is about $7,300. Hit rear end of suv. SUV had no major damage at all.
It looks like I may have found a body shop, south suburbs. I am having it towed there for State Farm adjuster and body shop to work together on final quote. Stay tuned. I am trying to stay positive. Damage appears NOT to have reached any suspension or engine. Early estimate is about $7,300. Hit rear end of suv. SUV had no major damage at all.
State Farm is simply going to look at Blue Book and give you some percentage of that value. They will not give you any more unless you have an appraisal dated before the accident with proof of value. And not any appraisal will do, it has to be done by a legitimate appraiser with all the right credentials. And even after I played by their rules and got a proper appraisal, they still capped the value to some arbitrary number at a fraction of the appraisal.
You might be able to talk them into considering sale prices of comparables, but their idea of a comparable is not going to be your idea of a comparable. Prepare to be disappointed.
Most collision repair shops are not going to touch that car. If they do, then you will probably have to find the parts for them. Be prepared for that reality and be a help to yourself and start looking for parts.
State Farm is simply going to look at Blue Book and give you some percentage of that value. They will not give you any more unless you have an appraisal dated before the accident with proof of value. And not any appraisal will do, it has to be done by a legitimate appraiser with all the right credentials. And even after I played by their rules and got a proper appraisal, they still capped the value to some arbitrary number at a fraction of the appraisal.
You might be able to talk them into considering sale prices of comparables, but their idea of a comparable is not going to be your idea of a comparable. Prepare to be disappointed.
Most collision repair shops are not going to touch that car. If they do, then you will probably have to find the parts for them. Be prepared for that reality and be a help to yourself and start looking for parts.
Long story short, SF will do all they can to squirm out of paying anything close to cost of damages.
every. Time.
I've had no problems with state farm with my new vehicles, but I would never trust them to handle my third gen. I did Hagarty agreed value and while I hope to never have to use it, I can go places and know I'll be made whole should something happen.
State Farm is best equipped to handle run of the mill vehicles. Because most vehicles the same age are worn, broken, or otherwise devalued, the "available" values listed are lower than what the vehicle is worth, so it's challenging. They struggled to find comps for a stolen vehicle of mine, found typical rusty examples listed for sale, I replied back with clear pics of the rust-free and the offer changed a lot.
Find your best comps to establish value first and don't hurry.
With the shop, they won't want to put time into finding parts. Do some legwork to find them. We know parts from KY are better than WI, so call, use online and make it work out. Ask what is available and what's not available. This is a "tax" of sorts on owning vintage steel. If they play the "can't find it" angle and you can find excellent parts or new GM, so be it.
This sucks, but I agree w the prior statements about getting the parts. I'd source everything. There are tons of places to get parts. I stick w parts from the south west. Get good used vs reproduction parts. I'd get parts or a parts car. The parts shipped will be really expensive. Hoods are super expensive to ship. I would get a new rad support vs having it bent back. Your average body shop can't, won't and shouldn't touch this. Seek out someone who specializes in restorations and rebuilds. There are people that do this, you need to find them. Look for people w older cars and pick their brain. Hard core car people always have a bit of a network of resources. It really comes down to finding out how to tap those resources. When I had my car painted there were collision guys and actual restoration guys, that's who did the work, he had contacts for some parts and fabricators and interior guys. My point is if you can't find a shop ask some of these other places. Someone will have info on who can do this.
09-04-2024, 06:53 PM
