Hi Guys,

Just replaced the passengerside bushings and gear.
head over to the driver side, opend up the motor.

the way gear is mounted is different then the passengerside.

How can I get the gear out?

thanks

 

You have to remove the motor for access to the bushings.

 

so you mean: remove the left part a seen on the photo. The part where the dail is on?

after I have removed that, any tips what to do then or will it be obvious what to do?

thanks

 

Nevermind!

got it, works👍🏻

thanks!!

 

Well,

I got the bushings replaced, but while pulling out the motor, the ground en plus contact fell out and now the motor doesn’t work anymore...

Conclusion: the two small springs jumped away.

I found one and tried to put everything back together. But man, what a hell of a job.

two questions:

If I don’t have both sprongs, are there any other options / hacks to make sure the contacts push against the motorshaft?

I’m going to electronicstore to see if they have small springs. Anybody tips on how to slide the motor back without the two contacts jumping out of their position.

thanks

 

I should have mentioned that the brushes will pop out... sorry. You definitely need both springs, without the motor won't work. I always use very thin filament, bend a little on one end and hold the brushes VERY carefully in their position. Then I slide the motor in until its against the brushes, then release the filament and push it slightly forward and then to the side to get it out. It's tedious, but I have done dozens of these motors for buddys with that method. Works well when you know how to do it.

 

You don't really need to remove the motor. The gear/shaft can be finagled with a bit of care.

 

Thanks and no problem.

I’m glad that it can be solved by putting back the springs underneath the brushes. Makes perfect sence.

do you have a photo of the filamen you use.
and could you explain more in ‘dummy style’ 😬

thanks!

 

I use thin ish wire paperclips bent in a U shape to hold the brushes inplace while motor shaft is slid back in. Don't forget there is a little ballbearing on the bottom of the motor shaft to keep endplay in check.

 

Great and thanks for the tip!

regarding the ballbearing, could explain little bit more?

thanks!

👍🏻

 

It's just a very tiny little metal ball, this one: http://www.top-downsolutions.com/Bod...d-ball-bearing
And, a paperclip does the same as my filament. I don't even know where I got it from, maybe it is for flowers or something.

 

Great!

okidoki, to start with the goodpart. I managed to ‘Macgyver’ two brushlocks with paperclips. For anybody in the future, here is the picture:





But...I’ve got the job done, tested the motor not yet mounted on the light assembly and it worked. Got it mounted and well...it doesn’t work that good.

when getting light up by twisting the dial, it feels like there is a resitance? The other dial on passenger I can turn with two fingers. This one I need to use force...the headlight will come down, but Up only a few inches...

I have a bad feeling that indeed the ballbearing is gone. But before i continu, can anybody explain where this bearing is situated. I have read TDS explanation but can’t get my head around it😬

thanks!

 

ah....

this is ‘the end of the worm drive, right?
and right should be the small bearing, right?

😎

 

Problem solved!

Indeed, the bearing was gone!
found a replacement, little bit grease and placed it back.

after that it still ‘locked up’

so as tds mentions, release the lock nut and turn the screw. Once you feel the slightest resitance, you’re done. Tighten the lock nut et voila...

my headlights are working again!

thanks everybody for the help🤘🏻

 

Too late to save the time in this case, but I promise you can replace the pellets without removing the top halves of the motors. There's no need to remove the electric motor from the assembly.

 

I've tried doing that a couple of times but never could get it.
may have a go with a spare setup some time

 

At first I had to scratch my head a little, had never taken that side apart before. I thought the motor would have to come off, but REALLY didn't want to mess with the brushes. After fiddling with it for a minute or two I was able to get it out without removing the motor. Couldn't tell you exactly what the trick was, but I can tell you the headlight motor assembly in that pic never was any further apart than the photo shows and it works like new now.

 

Hello Donald. I had the same issue with my driver side headlight motor. Could not get the out. The passenger side one came out super easy, but the driver side no.
Did the same as you by separating the worm gear from the big gear. Seems like this is an issue with the driver side actuators. I even tried putting the big gear in with the worm gear back in and the
big gear would not go in. Worm gear had to be slid out to get the big gear in. I did the same as you by using paper clips to hold the brushed in to get the motor back in place.

 

And keep in mind of the small metal aan the end of the wormgear😎 That gave me a hard time wondering why the motor would stop after 2 or 3 times.

cheers

Don

 

Hard to believe how frequently this has come up lately. As I've pointed out before there is a lip on one edge of the gear. On one motor, the lip is on top of the worm gear, the opposite motor it's underneath. That's why it comes right out on one, and interferes on the other. But it doesn't matter, just keep fiddling and it will pull out eventually. I've done the job, and I've never removed the electric half of the motor, it's simply not necessary. It's just a bit of a puzzle getting it out without disassembling the other half of the assembly. Kind of like the game with all the little silver ***** you need to position in all the right holes, or a Rubik's Cube.

 

Hello Drew. Thanks for showing us that. I did not look close at the lip. Now I know why it was so difficult. Probably would be good to modify that gear by
taking a dremel tool and extending the tooth slot past the lip so that in a future bushing change, the gear slides right out.