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I recently took out my weatherstripping and much to my surprise my T-Tops were in pretty bad shape. I sanded and brushed out most of the rust and there was still some mild surface rust but nothing major, just some areas where it wasn't easy to get and scraping it off was the best i could try and do. I then put Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer over it. I haven't found any great reviews for it as it isnt a converter but rather I guess a reformer. I have attached a picture of the before and after. Does anyone have any advice on what to do? Should I leave it and put new weatherstripping in or sand it out and put something else in? Thanks!
after you get down to the last layer of rust, try navel jelly. it will handle multiple layers, but you got to reapply as you scrape off. your 2nd photo isnt coming thru very clear, but from what I can tell you have more wire brushing to do before hitting it with navel jelly.
its my opinion that all rust should be removed, down to bare shiny metal. don't believe the POR15 claims. again, my opinion, and also how I remove any rust on any car that I plan to keep.
its my opinion that all rust should be removed, down to bare shiny metal. don't believe the POR15 claims. again, my opinion, and also how I remove any rust on any car that I plan to keep.
I agree you gotta get the the rust off if you care about it.
thats a tough spot b/c theres multiple metal layers in that area i would bet theres more rust on the other areas if you were to take the headliner down
remove rust as best as you can grind wirebrush or sandblast then use all metal to fill in pits then light coat of glaze, in areas you cant get to use por15 on both sides
ive tried all the spray on rust stoppers eastwood rustoleum ect por15 was the only one that didnt make it come back now idk how long it will stay like that but por15 holds it back better than the spray can rust stoppers
ZRC is pretty good at holding back/preventing new rust on repaired galv/galvanneal metals. It will somewhat bleed into crevices and creeps into scale (almost like a penetrating oil). It's not 100% protection but (as nothing is over time until someone invents a stainless steel spay coating), it is good stuff though. Can usually be picked up at a local welder supply (eg: AirGas) for about $12-15 per 12 oz can.
its my opinion that all rust should be removed, down to bare shiny metal. don't believe the POR15 claims. again, my opinion, and also how I remove any rust on any car that I plan to keep.
Used a Lot of por on mine but sandlblasted it 100% first. 10+ yrs looks the same as the day i sprayed it.
Just painting on top of rust I dont see how that would be effective.
If it were me and keeping that car long term replace the rotten metal before the whole winshield channel needs replacing. Otherise patch it up get some new weatherstrip and drive it.
From looking at pics you have done a good job. This all depends on your skill set. The only true way to get rid of rust is to cut it out and replace with new metal. I think you would be okay with installing your new weather strip using a good adhesive. But remember the rust could come back. Again if you are keeping this car I would cut the rusty metal out and replace with new metal. That's the only way you won't have a problem down the road.
From looking at pics you have done a good job. This all depends on your skill set. The only true way to get rid of rust is to cut it out and replace with new metal. I think you would be okay with installing your new weather strip using a good adhesive. But remember the rust could come back. Again if you are keeping this car I would cut the rusty metal out and replace with new metal. That's the only way you won't have a problem down the road.
This. That is the only correct way of doing it. Anything else is a hack job. I can't believe people buy these third gens after reading all the hack work being done to them on here.
A good body shop mocks people that do these things.
10-03-2019, 06:55 PM
