ResIpsa

iTrader: (1)

This is a work in progress and additional info and pics will be uploaded shortly...

I recently purchased a 1991/1992 style Hawks spoiler for my 1987 Formula and wanted to post a install guide to clarify some questions I initially had and give some tips and tricks that I discovered along the way.


Disclaimer: This is just my experience. For all I know I may have the installation method completely different than anticipated. With that said here are the main points with installation.


1. After you install the spoiler (remove the stock aero wing) you will have five holes in your deck lid that will need to be filled and painted.



2. You will need to cut off the factory spoiler tabs that are spot welded to the metal window trim. Or in the alternative you need to source some base model window trim . The spoiler does not attach the same way the factory 1987 spoiler attaches. REPEAT: The spoiler does not attach the same way the 1987 spoiler attaches.




3. The tips of the aftermarket spoiler are held on in a very counterintuitive fashion. They are not intended to be attached to the factory mounting tabs (which other thread suggest and would be impossible if you already cut them off). Rather, a little J shaped bracket is supposed to be screwed towards the end of the tip in a recess molded in the spoiler. The little J bracket then clips onto the metal molding surrounding the trunk glass. Although I came up with a more simplified method of using the J clips which I will post later.






4. You can get by by only drilling 2 holes to mount the spoiler but if you want to do it properly it takes 4. The 2 rear holes ( from the spoiler base) may match up with factory holes in the hatch. The other 2 will require cutting the top sheet metal to allow the bolts to sit flush.




Notice the cuts I had to make to the factory hole for access for the bolt.



This side lined up pretty good.

5. The spoiler probably will not fit perfectly. But keep in mind they probably didn’t fit perfectly from the factory. It will require sanding to get a better fit and fitment will most likely be a compromise of what looks best.


6. Your rear spoiler mounted brake light will not fit without extensive fabrication. If I remember correctly, the 91/92 used a center high mounted brake light on the hatch glass.

Removing the old spoiler.

First, you’re going to have to remove the plastic trim pieces on the backside of the hatch. If you have the optional roll out hatch cover that fits into the little notches on the hatch trim do not drill out the rivets (I only say this because I incorrectly believed they held the trim piece to the hatch and drilled them out). Those rivets only hold on a reinforcement plate for the hatch cover.

From this point the bolts that hold on the factory spoiler will be accessible.

************Now is the time to turn back if you have any doubts!

Remember, our cars are old and that spoiler is old. In my case the bolts were fused with the studs in the spoiler and I ended up ripping the studs free inside the spoiler. So essentially the studs would rotate in place with a chunk of the spoiler fiberglass surrounding them.

Once both bolts are removed or you have ripped the studs free you can lift the back of the spoiler and start guiding it forward. The outside edges of the spoiler has plastic tabs that fit inside the metal tabs that are spot welded to the trim on the hatch glass. If you’re trying to save the spoiler be gentle. Slowly push the spoiler/tabs in the direction of the front of the car.

6a: Positioning the spoiler and marking locations to drill.


Now that the old spoiler is removed you can try and position the new spoiler on the hatch before cutting off the metal tabs. If your spoiler was like mine, you’ll see that it is impossible to make it lineup correctly on the hatch. I think this is the stage where people start to become a little unsure/confused about this install.


Now let’s look at the directions and supplied hardware for clarity.




Now that everything is crystal clear I can end this post.

Just kidding.

Tip one:


The instructions tell you to use Playdough or silly putty in the bolt holes on the spoiler to mark where you need to drill the holes. However, I found this to be a little difficult. First of all, I had no idea how much putty to use and it always seem to move around as I tried to position the spoiler.


I found that using felt paper was much easier. I Purchased the felt paper at Walmart and cut 2 pieces large enough to cover the spoiler base and extend to the end of the hatch. Then I used some spray adhesive to attach the felt paper to the bottom of the spoiler pedestals. The trick is to find an adhesive that is tacky and holds but it’s not permanent.


With the felt paper attached I marked the holes and then flip the spoiler over and laid it down on the hatch. When the spoiler is positioned where you want it take painters tape and firmly tape down the felt paper to the hatch. Then simply lift the spoiler up off the felt paper and your bolt holes are clearly marked.

ResIpsa

iTrader: (1)

Sorry. I forgot to take a picture of this step... just imagine the spoiler resting on the hatch on the felt.

ResIpsa

iTrader: (1)

So apparently, there’s a 12 picture limit to each post. So I’ll start breaking up this guide.

Tip 2: (This one is simple but you’ll thank me)

Use longer bolts than the ones provided. The spoiler is thick enough to accept bolts almost twice as long as the ones provided. Because you’ll be constantly attaching and removing the spoiler during the fitting process longer bolts will make your life so much easier. Otherwise you’re constantly be fighting to get the threads to engage the spoiler with one hand while you’re balancing the hatch and trying to stabilize the spoiler with the other hand.

Tip 3:

Place a floormat over the top of the automatic latching mechanism of the hatch. There is nothing more frustrating Then getting ready to try and slide a bolt in when you accidentally bring the hatch to low and the auto close mechanism engages.

Then when you go around to pop the trunk the hatch flies open because the new spoiler is so much lighter than the old one.

ResIpsa

iTrader: (1)

Tip 4:

I was a little skeptical about the idea of screwing the metal J hook bracket into the fiberglass. According to the instructions you would then need to hook the J hook on the top edge of the hatch glass trim and (preferably with a friend) slide the hook down ( with the spoiler) until the base was in position.

In my case, this would require grinding the remaining metal from the front spot welded spoiler tab.

However, on my spoiler the driver side tip was molded in such a fashion that it was already pressed down against the hatch. That said, no J hook would be necessary for that side.

My passenger side was different, that tip was about an inch off the glass. I still was not sold on the screwing in the J hook and sliding it down idea.

Here’s what I did.

ResIpsa

iTrader: (1)

I grabbed some carbon fiber fabric I had lying around (I’m sure you do as well?) and some five minute quickset epoxy.

I suppose you could use a thin metal plate as well. But the idea is to create a notch that you slide the J bracket into. When you close the hatch the body will prevent the bracket from sliding out. I applied some adhesive backed felt to the inside of the J hook for a tighter fit.

ResIpsa

iTrader: (1)

Tip 5:

Don't feel obligated to use the small round felt pieces that are supposed to be attached to the base around the bolt holes. In my case I laid everything up without the small felt pieces and I found that installing them threw everything off. I chose not to install them. However, I will use some RTV sealant to waterproof everything before final install.

Tip 6:

For final install make sure to use the most corrosion resistant fasteners you can get a hold of. That means bolts, washers, and lock washers. Also use plenty of anti-seize for final installation.

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

I had previously swapped the entire hatch for one from a '92 GTA so when I eventually had to replace the OE wing the Hawks version just dropped on after removing the clips. I did make gaskets for beneath the bases to make the appearance/fit better.
I used a couple of pieces of thin closed cell black foam and it worked great.

ResIpsa

iTrader: (1)

Did you cover the entire base/pedestal or just the bolt holes?

And anyone else with tips please post. Especially any tips on sanding or adjusting the spoiler to get it to fit better. I am not a body guy so I really can't give many tips on that subject.

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

The gaskets covered the entire base.

91banditt2

iTrader: (1)

Looks like it's been a year since Reslpsa has posted here, Was wondering how this spoiler has held up for the past couple years.