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Body Work gone wrong... Then right? Rear Fender Repair

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Old 07-06-2014 | 04:02 PM
  #1  
midias's Avatar
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From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Body Work gone wrong... Then right? Rear Fender Repair

This is my first attempt at major body work and I only own a flux welder. I still need to wet sand and buff to get rid of the orange peel so be gentle.


I had a long weekend so I decided to fix the two quarter sized rust bubbles in my paint on my rear fender/ quarter panel. Unfortunately the rust hole kept growing and I found a bunch of bondo in the fender. So I grew a set and cut all of the bad areas out.

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The inner fender was toast and also needed repair so I made cardboard templates and started welding.

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Then I coated it with POR 15 epoxy paint.

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After a bunch of measuring and paper templates I cut out my donor piece from an extra fender the previous owner gave me

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Then I traced it on the body and cut the car to match

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Tack welded it in place and was fairly pleased with the fit

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After a pathetic excuse for flux welding I had it in place

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Then I ground it flat

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Little body filler to get it smooth

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Last edited by midias; 07-06-2014 at 10:27 PM.
Old 07-06-2014 | 04:03 PM
  #2  
midias's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: Body Work gone wrong... Then Right, Rear Fender Repair

Primer

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and paint. I know there is orange peel. I need to let it cure then wetsand it then polish

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All together I am really pleased for my first attempt at body work

Last edited by midias; 07-06-2014 at 10:27 PM.
Old 07-06-2014 | 06:37 PM
  #3  
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From: Jackson NJ
Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8 4.10 gears
Re: Body Work gone wrong...

thats not bad!!! come and fix mine , i have rust in the same spot. im sure nobody would be able to know unless they read this
Old 07-06-2014 | 07:46 PM
  #4  
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From: On TGO
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: Built 355 to install
Transmission: Built turbo 350
Re: Body Work gone wrong...

Originally Posted by midias
Body Work gone wrong...

On the contrary, It looks like it went pretty dang well for a first time !
Old 07-06-2014 | 08:09 PM
  #5  
midias's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,437
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From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: Body Work gone wrong...

Originally Posted by punkmaster98
thats not bad!!! come and fix mine , i have rust in the same spot. im sure nobody would be able to know unless they read this
Thanks a lot I am really proud about my work

Originally Posted by Restrorob
On the contrary, It looks like it went pretty dang well for a first time !
Thank you, I was more referring to the starting state but I am glad people think I did a decent job. Body work scares me but I am too broke (married) to get someone to do it for me.

Now I know why the previous owner gave me the new body panel.
Old 07-06-2014 | 08:58 PM
  #6  
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Car: '84 Firebird TA & '87 Camaro LT
Engine: 350 V-8 & V-6
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 & 3.42
Re: Body Work gone wrong... Then right?

Outstanding! Impressed with what you did for a first effort. Want to come work on mine?
Old 07-07-2014 | 09:12 AM
  #7  
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From: Short Summer, VT
Car: 1985 Trans Am T-Top
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi 1LE 10 bolt
Re: Body Work gone wrong... Then right? Rear Fender Repair

Looks like you did pretty well, but did you use weld thru primer on the back of the repair patch and surrounding. If not, it will be rusting pretty fast, bubbling the weld seam.
Old 07-07-2014 | 09:24 AM
  #8  
midias's Avatar
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Supreme Member
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,437
Likes: 210
From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: Body Work gone wrong... Then right? Rear Fender Repair

Originally Posted by stealtht/a
Looks like you did pretty well, but did you use weld thru primer on the back of the repair patch and surrounding. If not, it will be rusting pretty fast, bubbling the weld seam.
I did and I sealed everything with seam sealer like the factory panels.

Hopefully not driving it in the winter will also keep the rust away.
Old 07-07-2014 | 09:45 AM
  #9  
WTR388's Avatar
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From: Atlantic Canada
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Re: Body Work gone wrong... Then right? Rear Fender Repair

Nice work... Proof you can flux weld body panels, I've heard it so many times it can't be done... Did it to my A-pillars not too long ago.

I HATE body work. I've spent my free time the last 2 weeks or so sanding, sanding and sanding... Next 3 nights after work I'll be sanding lol.
Old 07-07-2014 | 05:04 PM
  #10  
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From: Bad Roads, MA
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3:27 9-bolt
Re: Body Work gone wrong... Then right? Rear Fender Repair

What, you couldn't cut in the whole new panel?! Just kidding, nice work! All I have is a flux welder too. You did much better than me. I keep burning right through this paper thin metal.
Old 07-07-2014 | 07:02 PM
  #11  
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From: Atlantic Canada
Car: 87 Trans Am
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Re: Body Work gone wrong... Then right? Rear Fender Repair

Originally Posted by sleepsinshed
What, you couldn't cut in the whole new panel?! Just kidding, nice work! All I have is a flux welder too. You did much better than me. I keep burning right through this paper thin metal.
My heat was very low, I believe the lowest or second lowest setting. Wire feed was also fairly slow. Using a Lincoln 140.
Old 07-07-2014 | 09:06 PM
  #12  
midias's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,437
Likes: 210
From: Henrietta NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am L69
Engine: Sniper EFI Powered 355
Transmission: WC T5 w/ Steel Support Plate
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 Bolt Posi
Re: Body Work gone wrong... Then right? Rear Fender Repair

I though about it but I got scared.

I used lowest power on my lincoln flux HD The key for sheet metal is to keep tacking then connect them when the tacks are a 1/4" apart. At least it worked for me.

Also watch this. Remember angle and distance make the weld cooler. Straight in and close = hotter.


Last edited by midias; 07-09-2014 at 10:24 AM.
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