Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
My driver side door is a bit too far forward, not sure why. There is about a 1/2 inch gap between the rear of the door and the body. Looking at the hinges there does not seem to be a horizontal adjustment. I know the pins are shot, they will be replaced in the spring, if they are the cause than so be it. Pictures included. I added a picture of both sides to show the difference.
She's probably not really worth the effort I intend to put in, but I love her just the same.
She's probably not really worth the effort I intend to put in, but I love her just the same.
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 859
Likes: 5
From: Birmingham Alabama
Car: 1991 Firebird convertible
Engine: LQ4 ls 6.0
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 342 Limited slip
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
Yes this can be done by loosening the bolts on the door hinges the top ones will be on the out side on the top hinge and the bottom hinge will have two bolts on the inside behinde the kick panel and one on the outside just lossen them and move the door back where you want it
#3
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
Good to know. It looked like there was no horizontal adjustment and I was afraid to loosen em without knowing for sure.
EDIT: I loosened them and no luck sliding the door towards the rear at all. There seems to be a plate welded on the inside that the bolts slide through, no moving that. Suppose I will wait and do a pin and see where that gets me.
Thanks
EDIT: I loosened them and no luck sliding the door towards the rear at all. There seems to be a plate welded on the inside that the bolts slide through, no moving that. Suppose I will wait and do a pin and see where that gets me.
Thanks
Last edited by Green89IROC305; 12-01-2013 at 01:56 AM.
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 859
Likes: 5
From: Birmingham Alabama
Car: 1991 Firebird convertible
Engine: LQ4 ls 6.0
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 342 Limited slip
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
if you are talking about the lower hinge bolt the one that goes from the outside to the inside then yes there is a backing plate that the bolt goes through I have had to pull the door and slot the hole so it will move back
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
Perhaps I am unclear on something.
On the top hinge there are 3 bolts going from the outside in.
On the lower hinge there are 2 bolts going from the inside out and 1 going from the outside in. All three of these go through the plate on the inside of the car.
After I read your post, I loosened the all the bolts and attempted to pull the door towards the back of the car with no luck.
The plate seems to prevent the bolts from moving, which is probably its intention. If I need to remove the door and modify something to slide it than perhaps during warmer times I will attempt it.
Although door almost seems like it is resting higher than it should be when closed.
While I was messing with the door I checked some things on the passenger side which does not seem to have a gap issue.
The hinge placements appear to be exact from both sides, both lower hinges are recessed about a 1/8-1/4 inch towards the front, while the upper hinges are flush with the body. I have no other way to describe this, I hope its clear.
The biggest thing I see is that the ground effects on the driver side are incredibly rubbed/worn in the middle where the passenger side is not. This could be due to a bad pin I suppose, but does a pin align a door when closed?.
I am thinking that someone previously may have attempted to lift the car by the middle pinch weld causing the middle to rise a bit. I removed the effects a while back hoping some debris was in there but it was pretty clean.
Edit:I think I may have found the culprit. Seems it was either bottomed out or improperly lifted. In the middle the pinch weld is bent up, in addition there are 2 indentations in the body near the bent pinch weld.
The indentations were hidden by the ground effects. I just pulled them off again and noticed them.
On the top hinge there are 3 bolts going from the outside in.
On the lower hinge there are 2 bolts going from the inside out and 1 going from the outside in. All three of these go through the plate on the inside of the car.
After I read your post, I loosened the all the bolts and attempted to pull the door towards the back of the car with no luck.
The plate seems to prevent the bolts from moving, which is probably its intention. If I need to remove the door and modify something to slide it than perhaps during warmer times I will attempt it.
Although door almost seems like it is resting higher than it should be when closed.
While I was messing with the door I checked some things on the passenger side which does not seem to have a gap issue.
The hinge placements appear to be exact from both sides, both lower hinges are recessed about a 1/8-1/4 inch towards the front, while the upper hinges are flush with the body. I have no other way to describe this, I hope its clear.
The biggest thing I see is that the ground effects on the driver side are incredibly rubbed/worn in the middle where the passenger side is not. This could be due to a bad pin I suppose, but does a pin align a door when closed?.
I am thinking that someone previously may have attempted to lift the car by the middle pinch weld causing the middle to rise a bit. I removed the effects a while back hoping some debris was in there but it was pretty clean.
Edit:I think I may have found the culprit. Seems it was either bottomed out or improperly lifted. In the middle the pinch weld is bent up, in addition there are 2 indentations in the body near the bent pinch weld.
The indentations were hidden by the ground effects. I just pulled them off again and noticed them.
Last edited by Green89IROC305; 12-01-2013 at 03:32 AM.
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 3
From: Short Summer, VT
Car: 1985 Trans Am T-Top
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi 1LE 10 bolt
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
Most door and fender alignment problems are caused by improper jacking of our cars.
Always look under the car first.
Always look under the car first.
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 859
Likes: 5
From: Birmingham Alabama
Car: 1991 Firebird convertible
Engine: LQ4 ls 6.0
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 342 Limited slip
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
Perhaps I am unclear on something.
On the top hinge there are 3 bolts going from the outside in.
On the lower hinge there are 2 bolts going from the inside out and 1 going from the outside in. All three of these go through the plate on the inside of the car.
After I read your post, I loosened the all the bolts and attempted to pull the door towards the back of the car with no luck.
The plate seems to prevent the bolts from moving, which is probably its intention. If I need to remove the door and modify something to slide it than perhaps during warmer times I will attempt it.
Although door almost seems like it is resting higher than it should be when closed.
While I was messing with the door I checked some things on the passenger side which does not seem to have a gap issue.
The hinge placements appear to be exact from both sides, both lower hinges are recessed about a 1/8-1/4 inch towards the front, while the upper hinges are flush with the body. I have no other way to describe this, I hope its clear.
The biggest thing I see is that the ground effects on the driver side are incredibly rubbed/worn in the middle where the passenger side is not. This could be due to a bad pin I suppose, but does a pin align a door when closed?.
I am thinking that someone previously may have attempted to lift the car by the middle pinch weld causing the middle to rise a bit. I removed the effects a while back hoping some debris was in there but it was pretty clean.
Edit:I think I may have found the culprit. Seems it was either bottomed out or improperly lifted. In the middle the pinch weld is bent up, in addition there are 2 indentations in the body near the bent pinch weld.
The indentations were hidden by the ground effects. I just pulled them off again and noticed them.
On the top hinge there are 3 bolts going from the outside in.
On the lower hinge there are 2 bolts going from the inside out and 1 going from the outside in. All three of these go through the plate on the inside of the car.
After I read your post, I loosened the all the bolts and attempted to pull the door towards the back of the car with no luck.
The plate seems to prevent the bolts from moving, which is probably its intention. If I need to remove the door and modify something to slide it than perhaps during warmer times I will attempt it.
Although door almost seems like it is resting higher than it should be when closed.
While I was messing with the door I checked some things on the passenger side which does not seem to have a gap issue.
The hinge placements appear to be exact from both sides, both lower hinges are recessed about a 1/8-1/4 inch towards the front, while the upper hinges are flush with the body. I have no other way to describe this, I hope its clear.
The biggest thing I see is that the ground effects on the driver side are incredibly rubbed/worn in the middle where the passenger side is not. This could be due to a bad pin I suppose, but does a pin align a door when closed?.
I am thinking that someone previously may have attempted to lift the car by the middle pinch weld causing the middle to rise a bit. I removed the effects a while back hoping some debris was in there but it was pretty clean.
Edit:I think I may have found the culprit. Seems it was either bottomed out or improperly lifted. In the middle the pinch weld is bent up, in addition there are 2 indentations in the body near the bent pinch weld.
The indentations were hidden by the ground effects. I just pulled them off again and noticed them.
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#8
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,240
Likes: 6
From: LeRoy, NY
Car: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon GT
Engine: 2.7L V6
Transmission: 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.41
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
Obviously some people don't seem to understand the issue...
OP, there is NO FRONT TO REAR ADJUSTMENT for the doors unless you remove the hinge from the door and put a shim in.
Your fender needs to be pushed forwards if the straightening of the pinch welds doesn't help the issue. The quarter panel is also non-adjustable (since it's welded to the rest of the body).
OP, there is NO FRONT TO REAR ADJUSTMENT for the doors unless you remove the hinge from the door and put a shim in.
Your fender needs to be pushed forwards if the straightening of the pinch welds doesn't help the issue. The quarter panel is also non-adjustable (since it's welded to the rest of the body).
#9
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 463
Likes: 9
From: Milford, OH
Car: 91 Z28 - using 87 electricals
Engine: 383 HSR EBL
Transmission: 700R4 - Stage 3 Fixed Pressure
Axle/Gears: GM 3.08 POSI
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
Appreciate all the responses. I am honestly just resigned to the fact that the door will never be back to original and thats ok I suppose.
Cheers guys.
Cheers guys.
#10
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,320
Likes: 350
From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
If the pins/bushings on the hinge are shot.There is no point in trying to adjust the door.Any alignment you make (if any) will be undone upon replacing the pin/bushings.
As Maverick pointed out.There is NO adjust at the hinges, they are welded to the doors & the bolt holes are NOT slotted.
Only adjustments (besides fender) are the striker & with a door alignment tool sold by a member (TDS), but you can fab this tool w/ a little creativity.Tool mostly aligns the door at the dr. jamb end.
As Maverick pointed out.There is NO adjust at the hinges, they are welded to the doors & the bolt holes are NOT slotted.
Only adjustments (besides fender) are the striker & with a door alignment tool sold by a member (TDS), but you can fab this tool w/ a little creativity.Tool mostly aligns the door at the dr. jamb end.
#11
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 11,927
Likes: 932
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Any way to align the rear of the door to the body?
It's been awhile but IIRC, the panel that the door hinge bolts to, has a hole on the upper hinge and a hole on the lower hinge that needs to be drilled bigger to allow the forward (to fender) and rearward (to quarter panel)door adjustment.
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