redbird_400

Ok I took one out of a Camaro and put it in my Bird. I you look at it, it has 3 bolts connecting it to the metal. If the brace that holds this thing on is to high when you press the trunk release or unlock it with a key the lock releases moves up then the lock catches and the whole thing closes and locks itself up again.

If the brace that hold this deal on is to low. First it doesnt close properly, usally you here a click but there is no click and it does lock. If you hit the trunk release it unlocks the motor does not move. It doesnt move because it doesnt go all the way down and click in the first place. Then what you have to do is press the button to force it down then back up.

Another rig on this and this is where you guys can realy help even if you have no clue what I'm talking about with the to high or low deal. Ok if you look at your lock you see the part that pulls the hatch down. Ok does this thing fit in tight or is it loose?
I mean can you rattle it around? Mine you sure can. This leads me to belive there is a piece missing. Ok there are some rails that hold the moveing part in so it just doent fall apart. In beetween these rails there is about a centimeter of clearence. I put two allen wrenchs in here to accomidate and make it fit tightly. If they arnt in there the piece that holds down the whole hatch sits to far to the front of the car and does not catch the ring part on the hatch itself.

IF you know how this is sopose to work any tips pics. OR just tell me what your hatch lock looks like and even if it rattles.

Thanx

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89 Formula Firebird
Red with T-tops
5.0 305 FI
Soon to be a 400sb.

OldBlue

mine is SOLLLIIID cant do anything to it

redbird_400

That means there is some piece missing from mine. This piece fits inside the rails that slide up and down to hold it straight.
HA Im using allen wrenchs.

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89 Formula Firebird
Red with T-tops
5.0 305 FI
Soon to be a 400sb.

redbird_400

If anyone knows what does that two prong connection deal does? It connects when shut the hatch.

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89 Formula Firebird
Red with T-tops
5.0 305 FI
Soon to be a 400sb.

FiReBReTHa

tell it its a horrible son, and you never wanted it.....

mines busted too. gotta get new one, when i go to stage three of stereo,

i have ghetto paper stuffed where those white rails used to be so it doesnt rattle, (LOLOLOL,) no option when next to sub.....

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91 FireBird 305 V-8
Edelbrock Catback, Custom Alarm. Fourth Gen Console. i have six cupholders. all for starbucks!
Go|)Created The Earth, And Then Turned Up The Bass.
Here's My Audio Install!

"Honda's FOR ME TO POOP ON!" -Triumph...

89 4Mula 350 Tbi

Hey guys i have a cheap and easy solution to this one. Mine broke it didnt wanna close the hatch anymore so when i saw that the dealer watned 300 dollars for one i said no way and i figured somethin out. What i did was disconnecte the motor from the hatch and rail part then i had a friend go inside and see how far down the thing had to go so i drilled a hole throught the rail and stuck a grade eight bolt through it . No more problems at all . If you need more info email me at bandit2@hot-shot.com

1989 Firebird Formula 350 TBI 700 with shift kit. and some more

redbird_400

Well I dont want to disable it all together and damn $300.00? I can buy wrecked car for that and pull hella parts out of it.

So there are originaly sopose to be some white rails in there that hold this thing straight? I might just go to home depot and get some square metal rails and drive them in there. IF anyone can tell me what these things are original sopose to look like (the rail or missing piece of mine) that would be cool.

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89 Formula Firebird
Red with T-tops
5.0 305 FI
Soon to be a 400sb.

deadbird

I think this is what your're looking for

http://www.angelcities.com/members/gtaz/webpost/4.jpg

They appear to be nylon guides/tracks that the housing slide up & down in & hold it steady.

Here's a few more pics that aren't as useful but,, well, here they are...

http://www.angelcities.com/members/gtaz/webpost/1.jpg
http://www.angelcities.com/members/gtaz/webpost/1.jpg
http://www.angelcities.com/members/gtaz/webpost/1.jpg

Just some of how the unit is mounted.

The 2 prong thing you're referring to,, is it a moveable black plastic piece on the hatch & 4 copper colored rectangles on the trim? if so that's the contact for the 3rd brake light if there is one mounted on the rear deck wing.

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• my Formula Homepage
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"Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach
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[This message has been edited by deadbird (edited October 09, 2001).]

Kat

iTrader: (4)

That is for the center brake light

Kat

redbird_400

Yeah it must be the brake light, right. Thats why I didnt do anything when I disconnected it. That first pic. helps alot those nylon plastic pieces are most likely better that sticking my tools in there.

Do you think I can get them from pepboys highlow, possibly by ordering them?

>thanks again for the pic. that Rocks

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89 Formula Firebird
Red with T-tops
5.0 305 FI
Soon to be a 400sb.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

There are two reasons for the latch portion of the pull-down assy being loose. First the clear plastic motor housing breaks at the screw mount locations. If it isn't broken too badly it can be reinforced with thin aluminum strips and epoxy. The clear motor housing is also available from GM. The second reason is the plastic guides (as deadbird shows with green arrows) have broken. These are injection molded pieces of c**p made with the absolute minimum amount of material possible and always break. Unfortunatly GM didn't even assign a p/n for these. They prefer to sell you the entire hatch pull-down assy for around $400. I took the initiative to fabricate new hatch guides from solid nylon. They are a lot stronger than the OEM ones they replace. I sell a set of four guides and a new push nut along with detailed illustrated instructions for $20. Good luck, Lon.

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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040

http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

redbird_400

20 dollars and thire made of plastic?

I just went to home depot and found a $5.00 metal rod that 3 feet tall. I can jam this in here and put a bolt throught it to hold it on. That and a little greese should straighten her right out. Havent tried it yet but I'll do it today.

The only problem now is what makes it lock up by itself after opening. Does anyone else's do this after hitting the hatch release? I dont know why the motor goes back up after hitting that button, thats not right.


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89 Formula Firebird
Red with T-tops
5.0 305 FI
Soon to be a 400sb.

[This message has been edited by redbird_400 (edited October 09, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by redbird_400 (edited October 09, 2001).]

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

If you knew how many machining steps are involved you'd understand. It's not the cost of the material, but the labor to machine and deburr them.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

In case anyone wanted to see a pic of the nylon replacement guide kit I make for the hatch pull-down assy's. I'm selling them for $12.50. E-mail me if interested.

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/topdownso...view=t&.last=1

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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040

http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

Ken88GTA

I have been looking for those! You have mail!

Ken