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I've had it with t-tops

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Old 10-14-2001, 02:21 PM
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Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
I've had it with t-tops

I went to a body shop who specializes in custom work. I requested a quote on a conversion from a t-top to a HARD-TOP. The bodyman had never had such a request before. Anyone out there either heard of it, tried it or contemplating it ?

It can't be all that difficult (although the bodyshop guy sure groaned over the idea). Find a hardtop and weld it in ? Ok, I'm not a body guy so what do I know.

Any ideas ? Comments ?

Thx, RP.
Old 10-14-2001, 04:06 PM
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Engine: sbc 307
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Whats wrong with your t-tops?
Old 10-14-2001, 04:38 PM
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Yeah really? If they leak a little they can be adjusted.

------------------
1992 Camaro Z-28 custom 25th anniversary, 5.7 TPI auto, 2.73 posi, t-tops, arctic white with 92' medium mettalic gray stripes with black border stripe.

1967 Pontiac Catalina 2 door fastback, 400 v-8, auto, cameo white, dark red interior

1987 Olds Cutlass, 350 Rocket, auto, dark gray/light gray interior
Old 10-14-2001, 06:27 PM
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Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
My t-roofs are pretty good actually. I have the Lexan type that weigh in at about 3 lbs apiece. They are darker and cut out more light too which works for me....

I was considering a hard-top because the car creaks so much. It doesn't leak by the way -- it used to but I tracked these down and using my trusty black gasket goop fixed the 'holes'.

This is my third 3rd gen car and I swore I would never get a t-roof car again because the body moves so much. Especially after you add power, look out the windshield may come loose, b-panels crease, and the dash creaks... especially after I dial up my KYBs.

So I figured I would either a) get a good set of sub-frames or b) have a hard-top welded in.

Your thoughts ?

RP.
Old 10-14-2001, 06:31 PM
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Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Just get a set of sub frame connectors.
Old 10-14-2001, 06:35 PM
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Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
Well I'm glad you brought up the sub-frames. I was looking at a set from Edelbrock, then another set from Jamex, yet another from Global West. I have no idea what is the best brand for these cars ? Have any of you guys installed sub-frames connectors ? Did they make the t-tops and dash stop creaking ?

thx.
Old 10-14-2001, 06:41 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird Vert
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The Spohn ones are the best I have ever seen.
Old 10-14-2001, 07:40 PM
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Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
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Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
Yeah dude, SFCs are the way to go. You'll pay thousands to get your car converted to a hardtop, and it still won't be as strong as an original hard top. SFCs will make a much bigger difference.

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Old 10-14-2001, 09:51 PM
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Engine: Pontiac 400
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RP, go with SFC's.

To convert a top, i've replaced a t-top roof on a car that got flattened by a tree, you need to esentially take the car apart.
windshield out
Interior out
doors off
hood off
fenders off
dash out
hatch off

The only way to do it is have a used roof that was cut off correctly.

This is to do it right. At the factory seams/welds. I'm sure a hard top could be welded on over your t-top roof, but it would do nothing for stuctural srength, and quite pointless.

Hard tops without SFC's creek a lot too, but corner better than t-top cars. SFC's are pretty much mandatory with cars our age, but especially t-top cars. SFC's will cure a lot of understeer. It will feel like a new car.

------------------
Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
Painter @ Chevy dealer
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Old 10-14-2001, 11:12 PM
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i second that
Old 10-15-2001, 08:33 AM
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Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
I second the SFC's from Spohn,I got them and they are great.
Old 10-15-2001, 09:24 AM
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I was going to go with south side Machine SFC's until I saw the spohn version of them. They make a lot more sense because they are built in a t-shape. They connect to the center of the car too. That means more stability.
Old 10-15-2001, 09:30 PM
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Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
Another reason for creaks, and groans from your body. Is, believe it or not! Loose door hinges. Once the doors of Third gen F body cars are closed. They become a significant body stiffener. If you don't believe it. Drive your car slowly over a speed bump with both doors open. After I did my hinges. Much of the body noise stopped. Also my T tops stopped leaking when parked.
Old 10-16-2001, 07:08 PM
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
I had it with them too ................ so I bought a Hardtop this time

------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA

The Minnesota F-body Club

[This message has been edited by Matt87GTA (edited October 16, 2001).]
Old 10-16-2001, 08:04 PM
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The problem with basically every hard top I have seen is that nice little crack right along the upper back part along the roof. All the hrd tops i have seen have tha tnice little crack
Old 10-16-2001, 09:03 PM
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Mine only has that crack on the driver side and it is less than 1/2 an inch long................ for now

------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA

The Minnesota F-body Club

[This message has been edited by Matt87GTA (edited October 16, 2001).]
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