Saculia

iTrader: (1)

I am about to perform my very first paint job. I have been laboring intensely over the last few weeks: disassembling, cleaning, sanding, masking etc and now I am about ready to start spraying.
I have made a primitive paint booth in my garage and am about to start shooting some epoxy primer. I purchased an inexpensive HVLP spray gun set from TCP global and am planning on using the 1.4mm fluid tip gun to shoot the epoxy primer.
The gun comes with a small plastic strainer inside that inserts into the hole where the cup screws on. It also comes with an inline filter which I am planning on using along with the wall mounted moisture trap filter that I have purchased separately.
I noticed that the gun has some oily residue inside and was wondering what the best way of removing that oil would be prior to spraying with it? Would spraying pre-mixed primer during the adjustment procedure remove the oil, or do I have to shoot some solvent through the gun first? Also, would solvents, such as acetone damage the plastic strainer inside the gun, or is that specially formulated to withstand organic solvents.
I am planning on praying 2 to 3 coats of epoxy primer, block sanding it smooth with some 400 to 600 grit sandpaper. Re-cleaning and spraying 2 to 3 coats of arctic white base coat, color sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper, wiping down again and then spraying 3 coats of clear cote, followed by a final wet sanding with 2000 grit and then buffing and polishing. All cure times will be observed between sanding.
I have done a bit of reading on this, but as this is my very first paint job I am looking for advice. Any tips and constructive suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Run some lacquer thinner through it. The plastic strainer should be fine as it is meant to handle the solvents in the paint.

ZsTransAm

I think you'll find the 1.4 tip on the spray gun to be too small. Thats a good tip for sealer, base, and clear but primer is mean to be sprayed out of a much bigger tipped gun. I want to say 1.8 - 2.0 is recommended but its been awhile since I actually looked.

I'd take the gun apart and clean it in lacquer thinner. If theres even a little oil left in the gun you'll be risking problems in the paint. Clean the gun out thoroughly with lacquer thinner after every step (primer, sealer, base, and clear). When you're done blow the gun dry.

400 then 600 grit should work but you should read the tech sheet for the paint and see what it says. Different brands have different recommendations.

It would be best if you had someone with experience paint this for you but if you are really set on painting this yourself then I strongly recommend several test panels to get you used to painting. Maybe you could buy a fender from a junkyard and spray it a few times. When I first started painting white was the trickiest color for me. Sure, it hides bad bodywork and sand scratches but its also makes it hard to see if the paint is going on heavy enough but not too heavy (especially in the poor lighting of a garage) so its easy for a beginner to get runs and dry spray. Practice your gun distance, speed, overlap, and tapering.

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

Any new gun should always be cleaned with solvent first. They leave oil in it to preserve it.
The 1.4 tip is small, but usable. Might make it difficult to get the primer "wet" enough. The paint usually recommends an appropriate tip in the instructions, prob 1.8.
Most paints I'm familiar with don't recommend sanding between color an clear. Usually the clear goes on a fresh layer of color after 15 minutes or so. The sanding is done after the clear. The more clear you put down ,the more room for sanding out mistakes.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Thanks of the advise. Do you recommend I send between the epoxy primer and the base coat?
I plan on practicing a bit before spraying the car. The instructions for the DTM epoxy primer I have from Eastwood calls for a 1.4mm - 1.8mm fluid tip in the tech sheet. I have both, but read that for epoxies 1.8 might be a bit too large and that I should spray with the smallest tip possible for that application, hence the 1.4mm. I was under the impression that a 1.8mm tip would be used for spraying high build primer, but not epoxies. Please, chime in on this.
I will disassemble the guns and clean them thoroughly with lacquer thinner.

Thanks

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

The ppg epoxy I used recommends 1.4-1.6, I used 1.4 and it worked fine, but maybe a little thinner than it could be, but it worked.
Sanding depends on the epoxy, follow the instructions. The ppg dplf I use says to let flash for at least 24 hrs and sanding not needed if covered within 7 days I think. If you leave it longer than that, you ave to scuff it. You don't usually sand the epoxy primer smooth, if the surface needs more smoothing, a surfacer/sealer should be used before color coat.

haps

iTrader: (4)

Sand it regardless of the brand and regardless of the duration. In fact you should be blocking it. Sand it smooth as a baby's **** with 400-600 before base. If you don't break through the epoxy, there's no need for sealer, it's just another coat that attracts dirt.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advise. I was planning on applying 3 coats of epoxy primer, waiting 2-3 days, block-sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper, then cleaning and applying 3 coats of base coat, followed by 3 coats of clear and color sanding the clear.
I am hoping to be done some time near the end of next week so that I can start putting it all back together.

Yenipenny

First, always read the spec sheets for the product you are using.
Most, but not all, epoxy primers are not supposed to be sanded. I'm not aware of any brand of basecoat that recommends sanding before the clear except in those cases where you have waited past the window to apply the clear. Even then, they will say "scuff and shoot another coat of basecoat before applying clear".

Scuffing is not the same thing as block sanding. If you need to block sand, you should do so with urethane(high build) primer.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

I have read the spec sheet for the epoxy primer. It states that it can be wet sanded after 24 hours and dry sanded after 2 to 3 days. If 5 or more days elapse before top-coating, the instructions state that it should be scuff sanded.
I am a novice at this and as such don't anticipate to have the best paint spraying technique. Hence the questions of sanding as means of achieving the smoothest finish possible.

haps

iTrader: (4)

As this is an educational forum, please post a link to the epoxy primers that specify that sanding is not required. I just might learn a thing or two. Here are the two I use. Evercoat Eurofil and Mar Hyde, each one specifying that they should be sanded before top coating.

Sac, look at it this way, when you prime the car, you will inevitably get dirt in it. There's no better time to sand it out. Also, sanding the base is not necessary, unless there is dirt in it that needs to be removed. Metallics will require a base respray after sanding, solids MAY not.

Yenipenny

Both of the primers you link are urethane primers, NOT epoxy. Big difference. Urethane primers must always be sanded.

haps

iTrader: (4)

I lump primers with a catalyst into the "epoxy primer" category as they are a two part process. Please detail the difference between the two. A unsanded "primer" I would call a sealer.

Yenipenny

Sorry, Bro. Your "lump" definition and the correct industry definition don't match.
I recommend you search this site and the Camaros.net site for articles by MartinSr on the various types of primers and paints.

Here is a link I found for you. Read and learn the info, then we can talk.

http://www.autobodystore.com/ms7.shtml

haps

iTrader: (4)

Ah, the "you're wrong but I don't know the answer either, search the internet" response. Well done.,

Yenipenny

Why should I spoon feed you when MartinSr has spent many hours compiling his "Basics" series. If you are too stubborn to learn, I can't/won't help you.
I'm done.

haps

iTrader: (4)

If you intend to disagree with someone, it's best to have specific facts to back up your argument rather than generic internet links. I have no idea who MartinSr is, nor am I aware of his credibility. I see you edited your post to provide one more specific and I'm grateful for it. My "epoxy primer" blanket term simply doesn't jive. Post up some links of epoxy primers that you've used, I'd be curious to see what everyone is using.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, here is a link to the instructions for the epoxy primer I have purchased to use on my car:
http://www.eastwood.com/images/pdf/50242%20INST.pdf
http://www.eastwood.com/gray-epoxy-primer-eastwood.html

ZsTransAm

I read the tech sheet on it just now. Interesting stuff - it sounds more like sealer than primer to me, but with the corrosion protection of primer. The biggest advantage to real primer is that you can sand it to fix the minor imperfections in your bodywork. I don't know if this will work for you or not but I'm interested to hear how it turns out.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Ok gusy, here it goes:
I shot my first coat of epoxy primer yesterday. Needless to say, it did not turn out perfect. Got some runs due to lousy painting technique. The rear quarters, passenger fender, and driver door turned out good. However, I got some major runs on the driver fender and passenger door. I am planning on wet sending the runs toning with 400 grit sandpaper and spraying one more coat of epoxy tomorrow.
I went ahead and ordered a gallon of high build urethane primer surfacer that I am going to shoot over the epoxy. This way I can cover up minor imperfections and sand the body nice and smooth prior to shooting the base coat and clear. Hopefully by then my technique with the spray gun will improve a little. Will try to take my time with this.
Keep the suggestions coming.

Thanks

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have the right idea, but maybe you won't need the additional surfacer. The epoxy you used sounds like it is already a surfacer as well, so you may not need more than that if you can sand out a respray the epoxy.

coltonfox34

New Paint Job

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I use proform epoxy:

http://www.proformproducts.com/en/pr...013&category=8

I shoot it with a 1.4 tip. I'm shooting it as a base epoxy, so I don't reduce it. It leaves an eggshell finish. When reducing it and using as sealer, you are obviously not required to sand it before topcoat.

From the label:

"IF USED AS A SEALER:
1. Apply 1 wet coat to achieve a dry film of 0.5 mils DFT.
2. Allow 20 - 30 minutes flash time before applying topcoat
"

However, since no car on the planet is straight I use it as an epoxy to seal the metal. I find my low spots, rough with 80 grit and do my filler. Sand everything with 220 then use a high build URETHANE 2k primer over that. Such as:

http://www.5starxtreme.com/auto-body...acer-buff.aspx

This mixes 4:1:1 and is very high build, but sands easy. I'll block the car with this. Fills in all my sanding scratches.

Once it's straight, finish sand with 400 and shoot color.


What are the differences between epoxy and 2k urethane?

Epoxy is harder, has better adhesion for direct to metal application, and it is isocyanate free. However it's harder making it difficult to sand, and each coat is very thin making it not useful to fill anything other than 180-220 grit sandpaper scratches.

2k urethane is soft, and very thick. I shoot it with a 1.8 tip. It fills deep scratches and pinholes in body filler, however it has isocynates which obviously requires a special respirator or air supply mask.

Chemically epoxies and urethanes are both polymers, however urethane polymers are made by a chemical reaction between isocyanate and polyol.


-- Joe

haps

iTrader: (4)

Now that is an explanation. Thanks Joe. I do wonder why one would even bother with it since there are urethanes out there that can be applied directly to metal. Why mess with another product?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

The real answer is "always done it that way". If you have a system that works, the risks involved with experimenting with another process is not worth it.

One could use a urethane DTM primer as a base etch, and do high build after that. Epoxy has some fairly impressive adhesion qualities which is why most people that use it have been doing so forever. A lot of times a rock chip will take out the paint but leave the epoxy behind so you don't get rust. Probably why it's so popular for industrial applications.

-- Joe

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

I finished wetsanding the runs from my first coat of epoxy. Hopefully tonight I will get to shoot one or two more coats of epoxy.
My 2K high build primer is coming in on Thrursday and hopefully I will get to shoot that Thursday night. If all goes well, I might get to shooting my arctic white bc/cc this weekend. Can't wait. This is just for the body of the car.
I have disassembled the car as much as possible, so the hood, bumpers headlights, rear wing, hatch will be painted after that. Unfortunately I don't have enough room in my garage to do everything at once.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Why are you wet sanding the runs out? I just dry sand 'em out with a hard block.

Make sure you scuff the whole body good to take down the edge before shooting your high build, or you're gonna have break through in spots when you sand that out. 220-320 is a reasonable profile for high build. You'll notice that the top film of the epoxy is dark and grainy. This is because the solvent moves to the outside edge of the epoxy when flashing. You want to take that off. Just kiss it with 220-320.

Even if you reduced the epoxy as a sealer, and have a flatter profile you want to scuff it if it's been a day or two before you get high build. When they say "may be coated after 60 minutes" they mean after 60 minutes but on the same day.

Do you know how to adjust your gun? If you got runs in the epoxy, you are in for some special fun when you shoot color. Turn the fluid **** down and make sure you have a 6" pattern from 6-8" from the panel. You should be spraying 40-45psi at the gun, which is 8-10psi at the cap.

Shoot the high build with the 1.8 tip. Start with a wide pattern then your second coat can be more like 5-6". Do not reduce it. You want it as thick as possible, so when you block it you fix all goofyness in the body.

Block it dry. Use 100% solvent to highlight an area before your final block. This will reveal any weirdness you cannot feel. Guide coat is useful for giant dents and body lines, but your fingers will find all the small low spots.

-- Joe

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Joe, thanks for the advise. I ended up wet sanding the epoxy because it had been only 24 hours after I sprayed it on and because I wanted to minimize the amount of dust I was generating.
I will "kiss it" as you call it with some 320 grit sandpaper before respraying with epoxy.
I did attempt to adjust my gun as you are saying. My gun calls for 29 PSI at the inlet (with the trigger squeezed), which will be about 10 PSI at the cap. I sprayed against a piece of masking paper from about 6" away and I got about a 6" cigar shaped pattern, that was a little "moon-shaped" on the right side. Don't know if that is due to a bit too much material being sprayed. Will have to tweak it a bit, but I am still quite a novice at this. I think I may have gotten a bit too close to the car, or held the trigger too long when I got the runs. Most of the car turned out OK, only the passenger door and driver fender were runny. Some places it was a bit too thin. Being inconsistent with the spray gun is what the majority of my issue is.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I wish you took some pictures. Too close often leaves a molted look, big pinholes where the solvent escaped from. A big run or sag is usually too much fluid or going too slow. I'm sure you will get the hang of it. I'm still not a gun wizard, which is why I prefer to do single stage jobs I can fix mistakes in. I'd rather have a 9.5 single stage paint job than a 7.0 bc/cc.

I just did 2 wet coats of high build 2k urethane. It's 90 degrees in the shop. The stuff was flashing in like 3 minutes!


-- Joe

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Just finished spraying a couple of coats of epoxy primer. Went on much better than the first coat I sprayed. I got only one minor run due to being too ambitious in trying to get the little bit of a pillar that tucks under the passenger side fender. I will try to post some pictures tomorrow. Will give it a light 320 grit sanding on Thursday and then shoot the high build primer.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Sounds good. You are on your way to success!

-- Joe

haps

iTrader: (4)

Joe, do you use a sealer before color? If so, why? Regarding processes, I've been using the same one for years with nary a problem. Base metal, etch prime, urethane, polyester (if the substrate is really wavy) urethane, base, clear, clear, clear. I change up the primer step sometimes, but this is somewhat typical. I'm always up for something new if the benefits outweigh the drawbacks. Curious of your process.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

No, I don't see why you would. I 'seal' the body using epoxy as it's waterproof and has good adhesion. I don't reduce it though as I'm going to sand it anyway. I they do my body work. I like to 'seal' the filler with more epoxy or in places where I broke through to metal sanding. Then high build and block it.

So it's:

Epoxy on bare metal mixed 1:1
Filler
Epoxy mixed 1:1
Block with 220
Spot urethane over body work, mixed 4:1:1
Block with 220, then 320
Urethane over whole car, mixed 4:1:1
Block with 500
Paint

The second epoxy could be skipped but the high build urethane shouldn't go on bare metal on spots larger than a nickel so it's cheap insurance if I broke through on large areas like a door.

Some guys will shoot urethane overly reduced as a sealer, and put a topcoat over it in 60 minutes. I like to let the urethane shrink for a few days, then sand it before my color coats.


-- Joe

camarotucker

iTrader: (2)

Sealer is used to give a neutral base for the color to be sprayed on.

Eg., on your final blocking you break through your primer and expose small areas of glaze, filler, and bare metal. Even though you broke through the primer you are still confident that the area is ready for color. You epoxy the bare metal. You now have different colors within the same panel, white (glaze), yellow (filler), light grey (high build primer), and dark grey (epoxy). The sealer is used to seal the different colors and give the color (base coats) a neutral background.

It is plausible that if you don't use sealer that your color coats would be splotchy over the different colors that are under it. Some colors would be more susceptible to this than others. Silvers, yellows, candies, come to mind.

You do not have to use sealer. I use it and highly recommend its use. All show car paint jobs will use it. Some collision shops may try to not use it. Generally, the argument is that it is added cost to the job. What they do to avoid its use is, either use epoxy as a sealer, spray additional color (base) coats, use nothing, have problems and have reworks. Did they use sealer? No, but did they save anything? No, and in all reality spent more money than having used it in the first place.

Sealer is generally offered in three colors, white, gray (light), black. Grey is the most used. The color of sealer will change the overall final color of the car. As an eg. you could make a red brighter by using a white sealer vs. grey. On the opposite side you could make a red darker by using black vs. grey. Since the o.p. stated their color choice as "Artic White" I would recommend a white sealer.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

What your saying is the same thing we're doing, laying down a full coat and blocking it to 500 before painting. The difference is I'm not reducing it as a "sealer". The coverage and consistency is the same with no break through. I just don't see the point in reducing it since your sanding it anyway.

-- Joe

haps

iTrader: (4)

I concur. Why apply yet another coat of primer, thereby increasing your film build, if you've blocked a previous coat without breaking the surface? For those of us painting in our garages with less than a sterile environment, it's just another coat of paint that attracts dirt. I've been doing this a long time and I can say honestly that I've never seen a failed paint application that could be attributed to the lack of sealer.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

I ended up sanding the epoxy primer last night and broke through to bare metal around a couple of the edges. Wasn't much, only about a hair, but am planning on putting on another coat of epoxy prior to spraying the high build primer. If am going to shoot the high build within an hour of applying the epoxy, do I need to sand the epoxy again, presuming I don't get any runs?
Things are moving slowly due to being under the weather for a couple of days. But I am hoping to get color on by Sunday if this goes well.

Thanks

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Yes, but i'd wait a little more than an hour.

Remind me. Are you doing body work or is the car straight? Normally I'll epoxy, then do my body work, then spot prime over the body work and block it back down to the epoxy (faint break through), then I'll prime the whole thing, block it with 500, and paint.

If your priming over the epoxy without sanding, just wait an hour or more and make sure you lay down enough primer so that when you block it you don't break through to the eggshell finish of the epoxy.

The car I'm doing right now is about the worst I've seen in terms of dings, dents, waves, etc. However it had ZERO rot. I had it mediablasted because there was a few spots where the paint chipped and it was pitted, and I saw some filler failing so I figured 'start fresh'. When it came out of the mediablaster I had realized the car was like 80% filler. Again, no rot, just dings and dents EVERYWHERE!


-- Joe

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

The car is straight as an arrow for the most part. I just had to fix a couple of minor door dings. Also, there were some cracks at the corners of roof and b-pillars that I had to have welded. These are the spots that would require the high build primer to smoothen out. I used a very thin layer of bondo at these locations and then epoxy primered over the bondo. I didn't brake through the epoxy at those locations when I was sanding the epoxy.

sammy52401

You shouldn't have to sand the epoxy primer, if you read the label you only need to sand if it sits for 48 hours before you top coat, if your top coating the same day you will be fine. Also you don't have to sand your base coat, spray your base with its recommended flash time, for as many coats as you like 3-4, then clear. Wet sand the clear. For best results start wet sanding with 1000-1500 and work your way to 2500-3000. It's a lot more work but you'll have a better finish

sammy52401

And definitely use a primer sealer before you start spraying your base coat.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

If his urethane primer is blocked and even, with zero breakthrough and 100% coverage, why would you want to add more film thickness of a sealer coat, risk runs, before his basecoat?

People get so caught up in the step by step process they were told for 8 hours a day in school that they lose sight of the technical reasons behind it. You don't need a 'sealer coat' (overly reduced primer) unless you need to cover up breakthrough that will cause the final coat to look blotched.

-- Joe

sammy52401

sealer coat will keep any imperfections in the previous substrate from coming through into the base coat, unless your 100% sure you have no imperfections in your previous steps, i would use a sealer.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Reduced primer (sealer) does nothing other than to provide a consistent color coat. It won't fill in scratches, won't fix bad sanding lines. All it does is attempt to cover the difference between colors of primers, epoxy, fillers, etc.

I totally agree that in some circumstances, you absolutely have to lay down a fresh coat before your topcoat. But only if you need to hide something.

-- Joe

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Edit:

One situation where a sealer is useful is when you are using an extreme high build urethane primer, such as g2 featherfill (by evercoat), and a non catalized basecoat and you are concerned about the primer sucking up the basecoat.

Rather than lay down 4 coats of base to get coverage, a reduced sealer/epoxy over the high build is a good idea. Finish sand the primer with 320, reduce our your epoxy to a sealer, lay it down, and follow the wet-wet instructions for basecoat. (usually 25-60 minutes).

-- Joe

camarotucker

iTrader: (2)

Sealer is its own product, Eg. PPG 3025 (3021 white). It has a 1 mil film thickness. Basecoat would be .5 mil per coat. With a minimum application of at least two base coats (additional) in absence of sealer claims of additional mil thickness could be dismissed. On a technical level it helps with solvent penetration and in PPG's words "gloss retention", in lemans terms, splotchy. I have never final blocked a car and not had a breakthrough.

Epoxy primer is considered non-sandable unless specifically ordered as "sanding". Epoxy tends to be difficult to sand, clogs paper, and is time consuming. Obviously, if you have a run sand it out. I would recommend only spraying one coat Epoxy then switching to a high build primer for blocking.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Just a quick update on the project.
I applied one more coat of epoxy and 2 coats of the high build primer 4:1:1.
About an hour and a half to two hours went between applying the epoxy and applying the high build primer.
I block sanded the high build primer with 320 and for the most part went great, except for a couple of places where I sanded all the way down to the epoxy and on a couple of edges I broke through the epoxy to bare metal. I got too ambitious trying to get rid of some sanding lines.
Needless to say, the car and masking paper got covered in sanding dust. Now I am planning to take the car out, blow the dust off and re-clean / re-mask everything again. Shoot one coat of epoxy followed by 2 more coats of high build primer mixed 4:1:1. Block sand with 500. Clean again and spray paint.
Hopefully the next round of priming will be done this week and it would be fantastic if I can get color on by the weekend. However, progress has been slow. I have been trying not to rush things and do the best I can. In addition to trying to gain experience with the HVLP spray gun, hand-sanding has been a learning experience as well. Minimizing sanding lines and scratches has been a challenge and also being careful not to sand too deep has been an issue. I will figure out how to attach some photos when I am done with this.

I have yet to touch the hood, headlights, bumper covers and rear spoiler. The old paint on the hood is pealing quite badly. I am planning on taking that down to bare metal. Spraying epoxy and shooting paint on top of that. The hood is dent free and other than the pealing paint is perfect. Any thoughts on spraying base coat on top of epoxy without applying high build primer and sanding the surface smooth in between?
The body had far more imperfections and deep scratches and that's why I decided to go with the high build primer on it.

Thanks for all suggestions.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Just a quick update on the project.
I applied one more coat of epoxy and 2 coats of the high build primer 4:1:1.
About an hour and a half to two hours went between applying the epoxy and applying the high build primer.
I block sanded the high build primer with 320 and for the most part went great, except for a couple of places where I sanded all the way down to the epoxy and on a couple of edges I broke through the epoxy to bare metal. I got too ambitious trying to get rid of some sanding lines.
Needless to say, the car and masking paper got covered in sanding dust. Now I am planning to take the car out, blow the dust off and re-clean / re-mask everything again. Shoot one coat of epoxy followed by 2 more coats of high build primer mixed 4:1:1. Block sand with 500. Clean again and spray paint.
Hopefully the next round of priming will be done this week and it would be fantastic if I can get color on by the weekend. However, progress has been slow. I have been trying not to rush things and do the best I can. In addition to trying to gain experience with the HVLP spray gun, hand-sanding has been a learning experience as well. Minimizing sanding lines and scratches has been a challenge and also being careful not to sand too deep has been an issue. I will figure out how to attach some photos when I am done with this.

I have yet to touch the hood, headlights, bumper covers and rear spoiler. The old paint on the hood is pealing quite badly. I am planning on taking that down to bare metal. Spraying epoxy and shooting paint on top of that. The hood is dent free and other than the pealing paint is perfect. Any thoughts on spraying base coat on top of epoxy without applying high build primer and sanding the surface smooth in between?
The body had far more imperfections and deep scratches and that's why I decided to go with the high build primer on it.

Thanks for all suggestions.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

If it's straight and you don't need to block any more (I know you broke through), you can reduce some epoxy shoot that, wait 60 minutes and shoot your color.

-- Joe

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Joe, I might do that. However, there are still a couple of low spots on the passenger front fender, where I repaired small dent. Do you recommend shooting that area with high build, sanding, and shooting the entire car with 20% reduced epoxy? Would you explain the advantage of using reduced epoxy over non-reduced in this case, other than saving a little bit of primer?
One other question, if you don't mind? Do you foresee any issue with the car having been sanded only with 320 grit sandpaper as opposed to 500? Would the base coat be able to fill those 320 grit scratches?

Thanks in advance.