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T-top area rust ....

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Old 12-20-2000, 09:52 PM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 2.77
T-top area rust ....

I have some rust around the t-top area that I tried to at least get rid of, then let a body shop handle the rest. My primary goal was to try to stop it from getting worse. They used to leak and what I should have done was take some pictures, but regardless ... my main concern is the ridges that hold the seals in. Some spots that were rusted I had to grind down parts of the ridge down. Is this something that can be replaced or recontructed? The rust isn't bad at all, just in a few spots. I don't want to half-a$$ anything here ... just want it done right. Has anyone had rust in this area fixed before? What was done and how much did it run?

I'll try to post some pics tomorrow (it'll have primer where the rust was - or at least hope was - but you should get a better idea of what I'm talkig about).



------------------
The Camaro Shrine
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'88 Camaro IROC-Z 350 TPI
'98 Grand Prix GTP 3.8L SC

"Yea, though I walk through the valley of rice,
I shall fear no Turbo; for Torque art with me."
- Cullan Hooley
Old 12-21-2000, 10:21 AM
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Car: 1988 IROC-Z
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Axle/Gears: BW 2.77
Well, as my luck would have it, my camera ran out of juice in the middle of taking photos. Luckily, I had just enough to take the one of the other side (passenger) and enough to download it to the PC. This should tell you enough ... I hope.



I circled one of the problem areas. As you can see, the rust was to the point where it went through by those pinholes there. The arrows pointing inward to where there is gap in the layers of metal. In another section of the area, rust was forming in there. I did what I could with a wire brush, but I don't know how to resolve rust in that area. Also, the dashed line. That is what a couple of areas look like after grinding down the lip ...
Old 12-22-2000, 12:56 PM
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I have an idea. I'm getting some of that OSPHO stuff to put on the rust spots to ensure the rust is GONE! This "acid" stuff apparently destroys the rust. Then use LPS3 to coat the areas in between the metal to seal. Then on the lip, I'll have that recontructed w/ some sheet metal and braze, fill with All-Metal ... see I hope I have it all figured out
Old 12-22-2000, 09:07 PM
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Sounds like you have the right idea. I never had that problem (knock on wood) on the body itself where you do, just on the middle t-bar. I was able to take out the metal piece on top of it that has tracks on it for the stripping and grind all the rust off it, paint and clear it. Good luck and let me know what happens. John

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84 Firebird with Trans am ground effects- 350 4bbl GM crate motor (LM1), T-Tops, automatic, K&N filter, 180* thermostat, ram-air hood scoop, flowmaster muffler, Accel cap & rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires. Coming soon: new interior (grey), rear end work, subframe connectors, polyurethane bushings
Old 09-27-2001, 11:42 AM
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I have the same problem. did you have success? I need advice.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Allan:
Well, as my luck would have it, my camera ran out of juice in the middle of taking photos. Luckily, I had just enough to take the one of the other side (passenger) and enough to download it to the PC. This should tell you enough ... I hope.



I circled one of the problem areas. As you can see, the rust was to the point where it went through by those pinholes there. The arrows pointing inward to where there is gap in the layers of metal. In another section of the area, rust was forming in there. I did what I could with a wire brush, but I don't know how to resolve rust in that area. Also, the dashed line. That is what a couple of areas look like after grinding down the lip ...
</font>
Old 09-28-2001, 10:01 AM
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I sanded everything down until it was smooth then POR15'd it.
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