I finished up last night just in time for it to rain..........so I turned the car over this morning to let all the water drain out. I'm not letting that happen again, but it's not the end of the world. Gotta move some things so it'll fir in the garage now.

This took 4 days to build, mostly because I was being lazy, working very slowly, and making frequent trips to the hardware store.

I need to get back to work before it starts raining again, but I'll be back to discuss any tools/material/details/dimensions you guys would like.












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thats awesome man! i really want to do a rotissery resto on my car someday... it needs it lol....well... the undercarriage does haha

 

I'm even spoiled enough to have a 4-post lift in my garage.......but working overhead sucks and I want the floor of this car to be perfect. I don't want to NOT be able to drive the car in rain/snow/cold weather. Even though I don't have to drive it in bad weather, I don't want rust worry to be a reason.

 

Looks great. Could maybe use some triangulation from one or more of the end X pieces to the lengthwise lower ties.

 

subscribed

 

Done. It's the only thing I didn't finish last night.

It also fits in my garage next to my lift, on it's side too!

Pics uploading now.

 

Subscribed!

 

 

 

Good job. Now we can rest easier about your safety and some rust not being your biggest problem. BTW I want your garage. And lift. And welder. Probably a bunch of other stuff too!

 

Awesome!

 

Wow thats a first ive seen it out of wood. Now anyone can afford to make one and redo their car. I was gonna make one out of spare box tube I had from my old car trailer I cut up. I think you have given me the inspiration to do so. thanks

 

Never thought about building one out of wood. Looks great!

 

WOW, I must admit when reading this title I thought "F$#^#$ IDIOT".... looks good... very resourceful....no where near as sketchy as I thought it was gonna be...

 

I just added up my receipts and the total build cost is $200.

I had some of the lumber already but not everything. Hardware from ACE cost the most!

The casters came from Harbor Freight and were half of what Menards wanted.

 

Here's what the rotisserie was built for:

 

Truly impressive.

Is what I see
-- rear wheel wells have already been tubbed,
-- GFX brackets on the sill panels
-- welding repair around the front unibody frame rails


What are the long range plans?

Good luck, and keep us posted on the progress.

 

One of the best information posts of a long time! Harbor Freight has some good deals every now and then!

$200? Just plain inexpensive!

 

subscribed

 

The rust repair is documented here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...-repair-w.html

I bought the car because it had the fewest rust issues I could find. Here's some rust repair I did on the '86Z I'd previously been building. I bought the '91 that's on the rotisserie to replace the '86 that had too much rust.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ower-rust.html

The car was already mini-tubbed when I bought it. Not a bad install, but I need to fix/finish a few areas still.

It's a '91 so the GFX mounting brackets are stock AFAIK.

PLANS:

LS1/T56/Currie 9" - I parted a '99Z that the LS1/T56 and plastic fuel tank came from. I already had the 9" in the '86.

I want this car to be something I'm not afraid to drive anytime. I want it to have all the comforts and luxuries that a lot of people leave off their cars. I'm talking about GOOD A/C, heat, power antenna, remote start, cruise control.......stuff lie that.

But for now I'm in the tough stretch, doing all the work that actually matters but will never be seen. The floors of this car have to stand up to Chicago salt abuse, and not rust.

I've been grinding away on the floor to get as much surface rust off as possible before I start with the POR-15. Only rusty areas will get it, then the entire borrow will get the rustoluem paint.

 

I know, that's what I paid for the car too......

Also I'm the only person that was involved in building the rotisserie, just myself. I'm 148lbs so I'm sure anyone can do it!

 

You are definitely used to working by yourself, that's why every move is planned ahead of time. Admiration here from Texas!

 

Car has been sideways for 2 days now and all is well. It's been raining everyday here in Chicago so I'm very glad it fits in the garage.

 

They sure do, and the reviews are always helpful. The 20% off coupon is nice also.

I also bought a paint gun there to spray the bottom with:

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-h...gun-47016.html



Here's the castors that are on the rotisserie:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-1-2-h...ter-41524.html

 

Paint gun aside, since I'm sure you'll find other good uses for it...
Since you've got this much EFFORT into repair/restoration of the
bottom, have you considered Lizard-Skin? It might be a bit pricey,
but it looks like a really good product. (Power Block programs on
Spike use it a lot...)
I found that wherever the original GM gray primer was still intact,
it's a very tough epoxy finish, so I left it in place, cleaned & sprayed
over it. (I used a bed-liner spray -- brain-cramp can remember
what brand on the under-carriage, and an epoxy black for the fender
wells, which should be easy to clean.

Awesome work, kudos on keeping the breed alive.


PS
I just checked the other threads...
--The workmanship is outstanding, but for all the time & effort, you could have come
south & picked up a lot of less cancerous beater from which to start...
(can't find the LOL smiley while editing)
I get parts from a guy in Fla. who turns a lot of these, and usually has 2 or 3 available.
-- The visual quality of my welds is due more to my skill w/ a Harbor Freight
grinder, than the Lincoln Weld-Pak 100. (Again LOL..., and Kudos)

 

That gun got great reviews! $15! I might get one just for paint projects!
We have a Harbor Freight store about 20 minutes from my house, need to go and look!


l_dis_trvlr, you ever get yours out on the street yet?

 

I figured it'd be just fine for shooting the bottom of the car.

 

The car was only $200 and was already mini-tubbed so I couldn't pass it up. Chicago winters KILL floors so this one was in good shape compared to others I'd seen.

I'm going to start by pressure washing it today.

 

Wow... I was skeptical, but it looks like you really thought this one out. Curious if you looked into what the steel would have cost to weld one up?

Also jealous of your 4-post lift.

 

Rotisserie looks great! I was also dreading seeing some half-***, dangerous hack job when I first started reading this. I wish my garage was large enough for something like this. Having a 6' ceiling sucks. Don't forget to add subframe connectors while its on there.

One thing though, having a manual transmission means you can't have a remote starter for 2 reasons - 1 you're supposed to leave it in gear when parked, and 2 there is a switch on the clutch pedal that won't let you start the car till the clutch pedal is fully depressed.

 

You should be using your parking brake with a manual transmission, and yes a remote start can be installed safely. Here's an example:


If you don't follow the correct sequence, the vehicle won't remote start. Also since I'm building the harness, adding the remote start provision will be much easier than installing one on an existing vehicle.

 

Here's another good explanation:

http://www.mobileedgeonline.com/can-...-transmission/

 

I love this thread!

Well thought out for all the naysayers!

 

Yes, I did not mention the parking brake should be set. If the engine is cranked while the car is in gear, it will still lurch even if the parking brake is on. I was always taught to leave it in gear as well, especially on hills.

While the method in the video should work safely, I still think its a risk. I only have on-street parking where I live, and if my camaro were to move at all when the starter cranks, it will hit one of my neighbor's cars. With a brand new Nissan Juke on one side, and a 2012 Chevy Pickup on the other, I can't afford it.

And not being able to get in your car without disabling the remote starter is a bummer. Just my

 

@robguitargod1,

Way to go, man! That's how it's done.

Don't forget about the cover sheets for those TPS reports.

There are many ways to set up a remote starting system with a manual transmission. It sure is nice when it's cold outside and the HVAC controls are already set to heat or cool depending on the time of year.

 

I agree with the cold mornings. I've installed a couple remote start systems over the years and do like them, don't get me wrong. My camaro gets garaged over the winter though. I've spent too much time patching rust holes to expose it to another PA winter. It also gives me several months to install upgrades and mods.

 

Spiffy!

 

Nice job! You were the guy that bought that red '89, G92, 5 speed from Wisconsin, right?

 

Do you think you could post a list of the lumber sizes and nut and bolt sizes? The would be awesome.

 

That's right! See this pic I posted eariler........well that's the car:



I've LITERALLY driven the car 5 times since I bought it, and I hate myself for letting it sit. The only time I'm in it is to move it off the lift so I can work on something else. 88K original miles, and all it does is sit because I have so many other cars to work on.

It's unofficially for sale........I'd just rather someone enjoy her. Here's how she sits today:

 

I sure could! There's not much to it really. 24 bolts total. Let me get to my workout, then I'll get a list together.

 

I'll get the word out to some local guys who might be interested in it. If I wasn't so full up on 3rd gens, I'd come look it over myself.

 

The 4X4 for the X frames are 8' long

Overall length for the long 2X6's is 187" (just under 16')

2x4's are used as braces and to build the castor mounts.

Each bumper mounting location has 3 large holes and 1 smaller hole. For the front the bigger holes use 7/16" X 3" bolts, and the smaller holes use 5/16" X 3" bolts.

For the rear the lengths are 6" for everything because they have to go through more wood to space the 2X12 far enough from the rear of the body.

The wood I used is:

3 - 2X12X8'
4 - 4x4x8'
2 - 2x6x16'
various 2x4's

You also need a 1"x3' threaded rod and 1"x3' pipe for it to spin in. The nuts are 7/8" and you'll also want a washer and lock washer front and back.

Last you'll need 2 - 3/16" steel plates and 4 - 7/16" bolts to hold the plates to the 2x12's. The threaded rod is welded to the steel plate of course.

 

Nice job.

 

Nice work! I'm thinking this could be made knock-down for storing.

When you rotate the car is it hard to do? One man job? How do you get it to stay in one position once it's rotated? Don't know to find the balance point so that it would rotate easily.

 

Thanks. It's going to be a great project. Won't be able to finish as fast as you though. Lol

 

Rotating is very easy. All I do is get the outer nuts tightened enough so that the car stays in whatever position I put it in while it's being rotated. That of course makes it a little more difficult to rotate, but it's nothing. Once I get the car positioned where I want it, I just tighten down the nuts.

I'd like to add a locking pin, but this way works perfectly. The cars been sideways for days now, so it's not going anywhere.

I'll have to make a short video of the car being rotated.

 

Should only take you a day at most. I kept screwing off so it took me longer.

I only used a chop saw and circular saw too.

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I am curious about your four-post lift. Can you tell us what brand/model it is, and how happy are you with it? would you buy the same one again?

I also think this thread might be worthy of becoming a sticky.