Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

I got my car new in 1989, black. I waxed it constantly and took great care of it. But that year the paint from GM was garbage and the clear coat started to peel off, etc. So several years ago I had it repainted GM grey and the guy did a great job, or so I thought. Now the clear is coming off in sheets and the paint is trash. Plus before I move to my house, brat kids with their wacky mother kept parking next to my firebird and swung the doors into it, etc. So it has some dings, etc.

Anyway I see I can either rent or purchase a soda blaster and want to take this baby down to bare metal. There is rust on the front fenders so I may replace them going forward. I want to bring her back to her old glory, Black. I know it is the hardest color to paint, etc.

I guess what I am looking for is input on what type of paint and primer to use and any additional tips.

I painted a JEEP CJ snow camo many years ago and used PPG. I really liked their products then and figure that's the way to go. Just want to know what would make the car shine with a black finish like it did when I first got it so many years ago.

Thanks in advance. I am so close to getting back on the road, after 10 years. Just need to get a title replacement, it was purged by the state and I cant find my old title. That part SUCKS!!!

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

Black is THE HARDEST color to do. It will show and amplify any and every imperfection.

PPG is good stuff.

Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Fireball. I know it is a pain in the neck to paint but is looks so damn good if done right. Just toying with the idea. Cost so much to have a pro do it these days.

I am going to practice on my grand am and my 99 TJ, both need touch up work on the fenders, etc.

Fireball

iTrader: (2)

You're a brave man for trying black for your first paint job. For a black paint job, i'd hit it with an etching primer after blasting, then hit with several coats of high-build primer and blocksand the crap out of it. Guidecoats are highly recommended.

fyrebird68

iTrader: (1)

I enjoy painting, but I am slow at it. Probably because I am particular about disassembly, dents, taping off, etc. Also, I don't have a permanent place to do it, so it's a set-it-up-then-tear-it-down process.

Use several coats of epoxy primer. Block each one; a guide coat does help, but I have developed a pretty good feel for the low spots.

Use a good sealer over the final block; it evens out the color application. Wipe well with degreaser to prevent fisheyes. Be sure to wipe the degreaser off! (rookie mistake).

PPG makes a great product. Be sure to stick with their line all the way through, primer, sealer, BC and CC. No danger of chemical reaction that way.

You can overcome the orange peel threat by being open to finish sanding after the clear coat. Extra coats of clear gives you room to flatten it out with 1500-2000 paper, and then cutting to a high gloss.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Black is the easiest color to paint, but shows the most imperfections in poor body work.

If given a straight car, almost anyone can paint black. It's the lighter colors that need a good eye for proper coverage and overlap.

-- Joe

Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

Sounds good. This is a project in the making. I don't know if I will actually paint it myself. I need a garage first! I will keep everyone updated. I am just trying to get her on the road again, then start the long process of cleaning her up and big her back to the former glory when I first bought her.

Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

I have heard both sides of this on painting black. I painted a JEEP years ago and it came out pretty good, considering it was my first, and was done outside on a nice non windy day. I got lucky!

But this is different because I want it the best it can be. For now, just get it back on the road and go from there. Thanks!

Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

I have some slight rust on the lower door panels and front fenders. I am thinking of just replacing the fenders to make a paint job easier. But the rust on the lower doors is a small concern. I don't want to bondo it, I would like it done right. I am also looking at soda blasting it, then coat it with WD-40 until ready to prime. Just want to come up with the right list and proper procedures if I am to take this on. Input on this site is VERY helpful.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Rust means your metal has disappeared. After blasting it, you will have pits that must be filled in with filler. Just how it is.

I glass balsted mine, but anyway use eastwood 'afterblast' on it after blasting it so it doesn't flash rust. (goes on with a rag) Then epoxy. Epoxy will seal it which will let you run it around until it's ready to be filled and leveled.

-- Joe

Hawkeye1980

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the helpful tips. I will brave this AFTER and if I am allow to by my town to build a garage next year. House first, fun and sanity 2nd these days.....

But a garage is just plain COOL anyway!