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Hatch struts

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Old 07-11-2001, 09:38 AM
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Hatch struts

does anyone have any idea why the hydraulic struts for the rear hatch only seem to last for about 6 months?
Old 07-11-2001, 09:53 AM
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Jza
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'cause that sucker is like 200 lbs!

j/k. actually, mine are still good since i replaced the originals, and i replaced them with ultra-cheapie $20 parts-america dampers.

are you slamming or pulling the hatch down real quick? too fast and you'll start blowing seals inside the damper. I think that's why they went to the motorized hatch later. 4th gens don't have the motorized hatch, but they use shorter dampers that only extend about 8 inches. so they can probably stand to be slammed.
Old 07-11-2001, 10:02 AM
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that damn thing is heavy...

Old 07-14-2001, 08:33 AM
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The hatch struts I got have a lifetime warranty. So even if they do last six months at least you won't be spending more money for new ones. Something to think about....
Old 07-14-2001, 02:30 PM
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my struts are still the original ones and still open the hatch by themselves and eveyrhting. guess im just lucky.
Old 07-14-2001, 06:06 PM
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Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
If the GM struts for the rear hatch are anything like the ones for the hood they have very little longevity. I got new ones from Pep Boys with a Lifetime warranty. It is much stronger than the GM ones. They probably have more pressure to them. BTW, it is pneumatic, not hydraulic. If you have the rear window defroster grid I suggest a modification to these aftermarket struts. I cut a slot in a star washer, to make it look like a "C". Then slipped it under the clip where the rear most connector attaches. It just seemed a little loose before and probably wouldn't make as good of contact. The GM one has the terminal welded on so it isn't a problem, (aside from being too weak to last that is). Good luck, Lon.

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