Working with plexiglass
07-04-2001 | 12:14 PM
#1
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From: Festus, MO, USA
Working with plexiglass
I'm building a custom center console out of plexiglass and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it. Particularly cutting it. I tried the score and pop method and the jig saw and had bad results with both. Thanks
07-04-2001 | 04:37 PM
#2
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From: Tulsa, OK
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">A good quality Carbide Tipped Triple Chip saw blade is preferred when cutting Plexiglas. This reduces the amount of chipout on the opposite side of
the material and produces a smooth edge.
A Router can be used to cut Plexiglas as well. The Router should be at least 1.5 HP or better and with changeable collets for a 0.5" Shank quality 2
flute Carbide bit. This reduces the vibration and chattering when cutting and will produce a more smooth edge.
Since Plexiglas is an acrylic plastic (polymer), heat generated by the saw blade or router bit when cutting will melt the material and create a glazed
imperfection viewed from the face if you do not maintain a steady rate of cut. It is best that when cutting you do a rough cut first, then do the finished
size cut to reduce stress on the cutting blade and equipment.
</font>
the material and produces a smooth edge.
A Router can be used to cut Plexiglas as well. The Router should be at least 1.5 HP or better and with changeable collets for a 0.5" Shank quality 2
flute Carbide bit. This reduces the vibration and chattering when cutting and will produce a more smooth edge.
Since Plexiglas is an acrylic plastic (polymer), heat generated by the saw blade or router bit when cutting will melt the material and create a glazed
imperfection viewed from the face if you do not maintain a steady rate of cut. It is best that when cutting you do a rough cut first, then do the finished
size cut to reduce stress on the cutting blade and equipment.
</font>
07-04-2001 | 04:39 PM
#3
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From: Tulsa, OK
In addition, leave all the protective paper on it until you're finished working it, and lubricate the saw blade with oil or water while you're cutting to help keep down the heat and produce a smooth cut.
07-05-2001 | 11:06 AM
#4
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Posts: 333
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From: Taxachusetts
When ever I play with plexi I leave the paper on and spray WD-40 at all times. If you do this and stop if it starts heating up you can get a flawless cut with minor buffing in the end. Router is the only way to go to get a good cut also.
07-05-2001 | 10:36 PM
#5
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From: Lakeland, Florida
Car: 91 RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
I have to agree with the replies here. You could also use a roto-zip to cut the plexi. Always cut about a 1/16" to 1/8" larger than what you need. Then come back with a sanding block or belt sander and finish things up.
To make the cut edges real nice....
Sand with 220 grit sandpaper and then take a flame torch and run it along the cuts. This will give you a shiny edge. I'm not talking about a cutting torch, just one of those propane one you can hold in your hand. You want a long yellow flame and just run it along the edges.
It does a real nice job.
To make the cut edges real nice....
Sand with 220 grit sandpaper and then take a flame torch and run it along the cuts. This will give you a shiny edge. I'm not talking about a cutting torch, just one of those propane one you can hold in your hand. You want a long yellow flame and just run it along the edges.
It does a real nice job.
07-05-2001 | 11:15 PM
#6
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: San Antonio, Tx
Car: 2001 Camaro Z28/1995 Camaro Z28
Engine: just a little 5.7(LS1-320/340 RW)
Transmission: SMOOOOOOTH T-56/Auto. . .
Axle/Gears: 3.42 and 2.73
In addition to keeping the paper on, I used a Dremel tool to cut mine for my cupholders... see tech article 
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