I thought it would help to share info re: rattles in these 3d gen interiors. Mine is a 1992 firebird convertible.

When I got it I was annoyed by the rattling dash. I bought a large roll of the foam tape that you use when you put a cap on your pickup truck. It is sticky on one side. I then took all the panels on the dash off and lined all the contact points with the sticky tape. Everything now fits snug, I have no dash rattles whatsoever, and the whole thing took about 90 minutes. Success!

Now I want to work backwards in the car, from the console back to the taillights. Has anyone else found areas that are prone to or known to be rattle traps? It's hard to find them when you're driving...

Thanks in advance.

Dan
1967 Firebird convertible
1992 Firebird convertible

 

DOORS!!! my shake and rattle like crazy. there are also some rattles in the interior pannels. good luck you'll need it.

 

Mainly squeaking from the convertible top frame, air coming in around the window, and that annoying button on the parking brake handle (easy to fix but only short-term if used much).

 

If u want to do something about things like doors and panels, get SFC's, they will improve handling too.

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Looking For:

87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.

[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited November 28, 2000).]

 

doors and window mainly

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1986 SC, 2.8L, newly rebuilt 700R4, 3.42 Posi. 132K miles and counting, K&N air filters.

 

nice tip Bird67!! thanks

 

Use some foam padding around the spare tire and jack. Use some of that sticky tape around the rear speaker brackets.

 

whats was that about fixing the parking brake handle? mine is driving me crazy and I've tried a number of things that didn't work, also, anyone heard of the hatch struts rattling? I already took out my spare and jack but I still have one hell of a rattle right at 1700 RPM and I know it is in the rear right corner, but I don't know what it is. any suggestions? oh yeah, I've got the rear cargo cover if that helps, thats the only thing left to take out

 

Bird67, thats exactly what I was ABOUT to do... I've gotten as far as buying the roll of padding but haven't done anything with it, just sitting around right now... but I've got a different bird now and its got different rattles.. mainly the T-TOPS. The windows like to rattle alot when they're only PARTIALLY down and the door locks rattle like a mother!

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'91 Firebird
305/TBI(L03)/700R4/T-tops
Mods: Catco high flow cat - B&M Shift kit - TA tail light conversion - K&N - White faced guages on the way
Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P8200R - Pioneer 6x9's - Kenwood 8" Tube

'87 Firebird
LB8/700R4/220K
Twas a good car until the accident.
Firebird parts

 

I found that just disassembling the interior and reassembling it correctly fixed most of the rattles in my Formula. The dash on our Iroc rattled like a SOB, found half the dash bolts were loose.

 

I just did this but to fix your windows from rattling you take off your door panel and that top black plastic trim comes off with is. Then you will see to metal pieces with felt on them. Replace them. the felt wears out and it starts to rattle. Make sure it is REAL TIGHT against the glass when reinstalling them. Also while your there with everything off replace the OUTER window seal. This also has felt that wears out and so does the seal letting rain in to rust out your doors. After you do this your windows wont rattle any more. It worked great for me! Just thought I's share this

 

where can you get those velvet things?

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aka:15 year old camaro freak
owner of a 91 z28 5.7l camaro
Cross Drilled Brakes, KYB's,AFPR, 3.73 Gears, Trans Go Shift Kit, 2k Stall, B&M Rachet Shifter, Borla Adjustable Cat Back, Hypertech Chip, Hooker Headers.
more to come....
My 91 Z28

 

My convertible top squeaks and groans and cracks. It really sucks. I put in SFC's and they helped about 20% but it is still bad.Anyone got a fix? Also, what is the fix for the parking brake handle. Mine buzzes right along. Thanks for the help....bob

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91 camaro RS L03 convert,
t-5, ultimate TBI mods,TBI spacer,SLP 1 5/8 headers,
3"cat back, 3.42 torsen posi,alston SFC's,Global West LCA relocation brackets

 

I cut and put electrical tape on the button on the part inside the handle. If you do it right, you can get it so that the tape doesn't show and doesn't bunch up or come off when you push the button. It seals the gap and stops the rattle. Holds up for a while, and is easy enough to fix if it eventually wear out.

 

I rode in a new Tahoe the other day and it was the best ride of my life. Not because of the seats, not because of the TV in it, but because it was soooo quiet. I mean there was NO wind noise, NO annoying rattles. Then I got back and went in my car and almost cried because every thing was rattling and making noise. Does anybody know of a way to get your car back to its original quality?

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yellow 86 Camaro LG4
Pioneer head unit
Kenwood speakers
Infinity Beta Digital 300 amp
2 Infinity Perfect 12s

 

When my car got real bad I had my friends in th eback seat with a roll of duct tape when they heard a rattle they put tape on It. I thought it was maybe like 2 panels that needed to be tightened.

I spent the rest of the weekend completly dissasembling and reasslembling my interior.
Also soon I will be getting some dyno mat to put all over my car when I re-do the carpet.

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aka:15 year old camaro freak
owner of a 91 z28 5.7l camaro
Cross Drilled Brakes, KYB's,AFPR, 3.73 Gears, Trans Go Shift Kit, 2k Stall, B&M Rachet Shifter, Borla Adjustable Cat Back, Hypertech Chip, Hooker Headers.
more to come....
My 91 Z28

 

I just finished re-doing my interior in my 91RS.I layed dynamat on everything I could;floorpan,door,rear cargo,sail panels,etc. All the tight spots(inside doors,behind upper dash,between metal panels in the rear)I sprayed rubberized undercoating.I also sprayed the undercoating in the wheel wells pretty good and under the cargo area. Then I took rolls of foam padding and put them behind all the plastic panels when I put the interior back together to make the parts snug.The big panels along the rear sides got sprayed on the inside with the rubberized coating also.When I got finished... Wow!! What a difference. Made the car much more quieter and got rid of ALL my rattles.I also got that sense of solidness in the car. The only bad thing is that the dynamat is pretty expensive.I get mine cheap since I manage a car audio shop.But even at dealer cost,that stuff isn't cheap when lining the whole car.I doubled it up around the tranny tunnel and along the firewall.

 

rspeed,
that is exactly what I am planning for when I get new carpet!

Glad to see that it helps! My car isnt all that bad, but it does have its moments! I look forward to the results now!

Thanks!

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http://kiztope.50megs.com
92 Rs 3.1/T-5
KYB Shocks and Struts, Blue Streak cap and rotor, neato new radiator!, RapidFire plugs

An overhead console!!
Clarion Head Unit,
Pioneer 6x9's,Cerwin Vega Plate 4x6's
.....
Its slowly but surely coming along....

AIM : Theonekiztope
ICQ: 8787542
Planetarion: 3GFB kiztope of kiztopia-Camera-92RS-A (33:6:14(?))

"No one knows until they learn" Leon Calrinsky (99)

 

I have a 90 RS convertible and have annoying rattles as well. I did the foam tape thing as well and it helped. Also remove the screws and apply some weatherstripping adhesive (yellow colored) to them before re-assembly. It will help keep them from coming loose as easily. Use the Dynemat material sparingly. It is fairly heavy and only takes a small strips to kill the resonant frequencies of a panel. I have a Alston SFC welded in and a 3-point Edelbrock STB, which I modified into a 4-point. I tied it into the front radiator support. I don't know what to do about the annoying top rattles though. Good luck, Lon.

 

Here's a great tip! I've been chasing mysterious rattles in my doors for years and finally found the source. There is a gap between the reinforcing beams and the door skin. These two can begin to bump against each other causing a rattle when the door is closed. It gives the door that cheap, clapped-out sound (as if the entire "guts" are loose).

The fix: buy a couple of cans of that spray-in foam insulation (available at "home improvement" stores). There are two kinds - latex and another kind. A popular brand is "Great Stuff". The latex cleans up much more easily, but I think the other kind actually does a better job of expanding and filling cracks (it's tougher, too). It's some bad *** stuff, though. Don't get it on anything you don't want it on - you'll play hell getting it off (including your hands).

Pull the door panels and inject this into the holes in the reinforcing beams (there is one toward each end). Keep going until it starts to come out the ends or sides. There is also a beam along the top edge of the door. It's hard to get to, but try to lay a bead along the bottom edge to the extent you can. Whatever you do, make sure to not get any of this stuff on your window glass!. Inject it with the window up, and let it dry before lowering the window. I strongly recommend practicing on something else to get a feel of how this stuff handles and behaves. Inside your door isn't the place to learn. It keeps oozing and expanding long after releasing the trigger, so you have to anticipate that, or else.

This makes a dramatic difference in the "solidness" of the doors! It's amazing! They close with the most impressive "thud". This even quietens the outside handle mechanism! It's far cheaper and easier than Dynomat.

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'87 IROC 5.7l TPI - original owner!

 

I am almost finished a complete redo of my interior. I figured look at all this foam **** under the carpet, beyhind the panels, etc I bet I could chop 50lbs off my cars weight. I think I probably did. It RATTLES LIKE A BITCH! It also creeks like crazy it sounds like a submarine with all sorts of pressure on the metal. However I have figured out a way of fixing the rattles without changing anything!!! Underneath your heater controls look for a "+" button which usually says volume beside it. Press that a dozen times and all your rattles dissapear! For the mean time this has been working but I think I am going to have to do something about this.

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Karsten
86 IROC-ZZ4... too much to list.

 

I cured most of my problems in the door by cutting two inches sections of vac line, splicing them down the center, and applying them to the rods that control the locks, etc.

JamesC

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I replaced my driver side door weatherstripping and it made a HUGE difference. My doors would rattle all the time, especially when I hit a bump in the road. The new weatherstripping helps to take up space inside your door jamb area so it keeps the door from moving around. You all should replace your door stripping ASAP. It is not very hard to do and does a lot for your sanity.

 

OK want 2 know what really works for my t-top rattle?

I just folded up a speeding ticket shaved it in there and no more rattle. Now to get one for the other side