rattle can paint job
#1
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rattle can paint job
this is my rattle can paint job its gloss white not near completed but wanted to show you guys the car was black. i did my own body work on the whole side im not an expert this is my first time. painted door , fender , and some of the quarter panel did not paint the bumper ground effects kit since it isnt the correct one. just testing the waters here
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Car: 1984 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
Engine: V8 5.0L HO (L69)
Transmission: B&W T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 limited slip
Re: rattle can paint job
I see the "paint", but where is the "job" part ?
I know we sound a bit mean, but these cars already have a hard time getting out of their "red-neck" beater image, time to give them more respect.
Plus rattle can paints often are incompatible with other paints due to the solvents used...
I know we sound a bit mean, but these cars already have a hard time getting out of their "red-neck" beater image, time to give them more respect.
Plus rattle can paints often are incompatible with other paints due to the solvents used...
#9
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Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L V6
Transmission: 700R4
Re: rattle can paint job
But honestly, what kind of feedback were you expecting? I can understand wanting to make it look better than before but at least TRY and make it look good. I'm assuming going for the white wall tire look was unintentional?
#10
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Car: 89 rs, 86 Trans Am
Engine: RS-V6... Trans Am-LG4
Transmission: RS-T5... Trans Am 700r4
Re: rattle can paint job
I like seeing people who can go above and beyond the norm and do great work with rattle can paint
I hope for your sake this is a work in progress thread and you realize you have a long way to go
I hope for your sake this is a work in progress thread and you realize you have a long way to go
#11
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Re: rattle can paint job
Normally I'd say "hey, it's an improvement" when people do their own paint, but in this case, unless the car was originally another color and then rattle-canned black before you rattle-canned it white, it's a major downgrade/future death sentence for the car.
#12
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Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
Re: rattle can paint job
The impatience of this younger generation is killing these cars. Must have results now! They can not wait to save up even 1000 bucks to go get maaco's cheapest
#13
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Re: rattle can paint job
Wow a lot of bad reviews ok ill just prime it off after sanding with 180 and I'm not a younger generation I'm 28 I was just curious with the rattle can but I guess it's not worth it .
#14
Re: rattle can paint job
I don't know how everyone uses this paint with such bad results.... granted, I used it on the belly of my car (not on the top), but it still came out better than yours (No disrespect).
Here is 4 cans of white rustolem on my belly (before I sanded it down and sprayed zero rust and truck bedliner)
WHITE RUSTOLEUM
As you can see in this pic, the rustoleum isn't vary strong and chiped off right where the bolt went in to hold the fuel filter to the chassis.
Last edited by blakecharles; 10-30-2012 at 05:46 PM.
#15
Re: rattle can paint job
I would not recommend using this stuff (rustol), but it could have come out much better. I still sanded it back off and used zero rust and bedliner
ZERO RUST + POR15
ZERO RUST + POR15
Last edited by blakecharles; 10-30-2012 at 05:42 PM.
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Car: 89 rs, 86 Trans Am
Engine: RS-V6... Trans Am-LG4
Transmission: RS-T5... Trans Am 700r4
Re: rattle can paint job
it is possible to rattle can a car and have it turn out good, but it takes a stupid amount of paint, because it doesn't go on thick enough to stand up to sanding and buffing.
I did do it, and I wish I hadn't. I wasted so much money on the expensive metallic paint in a can (lacquer, not enamel)
Before
after
looked good for a while, but the paint dulled fast and it was too thin to stand up repeated buffing, so I eventually stripped it off (PITA) and repainted it the right way
if you are thinking "they look the same..." the lacquer was never capable of looking like this..
I did do it, and I wish I hadn't. I wasted so much money on the expensive metallic paint in a can (lacquer, not enamel)
Before
after
looked good for a while, but the paint dulled fast and it was too thin to stand up repeated buffing, so I eventually stripped it off (PITA) and repainted it the right way
if you are thinking "they look the same..." the lacquer was never capable of looking like this..
Last edited by 58mark; 10-30-2012 at 05:45 PM.
#18
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Car: '02 Z06
Engine: L33 5.7
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Stock IRS
Re: rattle can paint job
I spray painted my first car when I was 16, learned my lesson back then. I tried painting my current Iroc with actual paint, guns and a big tank of air. Took a lot of time and prep and for my first job, it didn't turn out so well either. I already sanded down the hood to attempt it again but now I am playing around with vinyl wrapping.
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Car: 89 rs, 86 Trans Am
Engine: RS-V6... Trans Am-LG4
Transmission: RS-T5... Trans Am 700r4
Re: rattle can paint job
depends on what you use, but yes, those cans get expensive, I bet I went though 12-15 of them to paint my car
#22
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: rattle can paint job
These "rattle can" threads seem to always end up the same way.
To those out there considering this,please just do "yourself" a favor and at least save for a Maaco paint job.
I worked very hard and saved for almost two years to have the money for mine.(I went with something a little different than a Maaco)
This is my moms car after a $700.00 Maaco paint job. Before the clear coat was pealing badly and the paint looked trashed.
To those out there considering this,please just do "yourself" a favor and at least save for a Maaco paint job.
I worked very hard and saved for almost two years to have the money for mine.(I went with something a little different than a Maaco)
This is my moms car after a $700.00 Maaco paint job. Before the clear coat was pealing badly and the paint looked trashed.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; 10-30-2012 at 11:24 PM.
#23
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Re: rattle can paint job
How much was the good paint job after that ? My original color I purple orchard I'm thinking about just painting it the same color or better since I have the 25th anniversary model
#24
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Car: 89 rs, 86 Trans Am
Engine: RS-V6... Trans Am-LG4
Transmission: RS-T5... Trans Am 700r4
Re: rattle can paint job
I did it myself in my garage, but I probably spent between 500 and 750 on primer, base coat and clear. Then there is sandpaper, compound, buffing pads, ect that you also have to factor in, not to mention the cost the gun, compressor, and other tools it takes.
#25
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Re: rattle can paint job
I like it!!! The antenna is white, the side marker is white, the door handle and lock are white. Be sure to paint the rims white and get the wide white sidewall tires on the car and you can say you're going for the white out look since everybody else is trying to black out their cars.
#26
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Car: 1987 T/A WS6 T-Tops/92 RS
Engine: LB9/3.1
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73/3.23
Re: rattle can paint job
I like it!!! The antenna is white, the side marker is white, the door handle and lock are white. Be sure to paint the rims white and get the wide white sidewall tires on the car and you can say you're going for the white out look since everybody else is trying to black out their cars.
My paint is far from perfect, but does not look bad for almost 26 years old so guess what???? I'm going to leave it till I can get a nice pro paint job done so she looks show room. It's stuff like this that keeps the 3rd gen stigma alive and well.
#28
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Re: rattle can paint job
I honestly don't believe it came out bad this is my first attempt at body work and sprayed that side to test how well the bodywork was done and I'm happy with it . I did mask the door handle and keyhole and side marker. The tire I didn't because I have new tires in the side . Anyway this is how it looks now ill sand it down and do all the body work to the whole car an paint it with real automotive paint . The card color was Hawian orchard so I think I'll paint it a metallic purple . Anyway here's what it looks like without dust etc.
#31
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Car: 89 rs, 86 Trans Am
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Re: rattle can paint job
ok, here's the deal... no insults, I promise
you're lucky that you picked white. It's the easiest, most forgiving color
Spray thick enough that you can wet sand with 400, 800, and then buff with a wool pad on a variable speed buffer
If you want something that stands out a little consider a back half two tone. the roof, hatch, and part of the quarter panels could be black, grey, or even purple. Might be cool. if you think about that, whatever color you pick should have matching stripes
I came very close to doing that with my car, and I kind of wish I had
.
you're lucky that you picked white. It's the easiest, most forgiving color
Spray thick enough that you can wet sand with 400, 800, and then buff with a wool pad on a variable speed buffer
If you want something that stands out a little consider a back half two tone. the roof, hatch, and part of the quarter panels could be black, grey, or even purple. Might be cool. if you think about that, whatever color you pick should have matching stripes
I came very close to doing that with my car, and I kind of wish I had
.
#32
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: Th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73's
Re: rattle can paint job
Haters gon hate. If it looks better, roll with it til you can do it right. But yeah it probably won't last long. I rattle canned my spoiler(white) and it it looked good for about 6 months.
#33
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Car: 92 RS
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Re: rattle can paint job
it looks ok, but head out to Lampasas, next to the Mexican restaurant, they do good work and I think they are competitively priced. that's where we had my daughters 91 painted. we got the friend price.
#35
Re: rattle can paint job
A few things to keep in mind when throwing out alternative ideas to rattlecan paint jobs are that not everyone owns or has access to an air compressor and equipment. Also, if someone has never worked with the equipment the end results may be a more expensive, but not necessarily more appealing. Sure you can buff or sand out most mistakes, but I doubt many of you would want to turn your car over to any random kid walking through Walmart for final paint. Also you never know someone's financial state. Now that many companies consider "full time" to be thirty hours a week and minimum wage jobs are common, sometimes even $400 in materials cost may take several months to save. The reality is people who have hundreds to thousands of dollars per month of extra income more than likely weren't considering rattlecanning anything to begin with. I've done at least 5 rattlecan paint jobs through the years so if here are a few tips if it's your only option.
Before starting do all your bodywork. Treat it like a thousand dollar job because no paint will look good over bad bodywork, but if you've got your prep work done and intend to rattlecan on some paint this should help.
1) Find a paint you like the flow of and that has good adhesion. Rustoleum has one of the fastest flow rates and by far the longest dry time that I've tried. Also know that dry to the touch and cured are totally different and it will be fragile and prone to lifting and scratches until it cures. Other than that it should work well. I've never had satisfactory results with Krylon. Even Walmart's Color Place brand works pretty well,although the flowrate is much slower. It is probably the easiest to avoid runs. Duplicolor is probably the best I have worked with, but also the most expensive.
2) Lower flow rate paints could give you issues on larger panels like the hood. I'd recommend painting this either off the car or open so that you can avoid can tilt issues. Breaking large panels up with two-tone or stripe effects can help.
3) Because of overspray I'd recommend painting the top and hood (if left on car) before the sides.
4) If you must paint outside plan for weather conditions. In warm weather paint early, because rattlecans do lay down such thin amounts of paint if the metal has begun to warm up the paint will begin to dry faster than you can blend it and will cause tiger-stripeing and textureing.
Before starting do all your bodywork. Treat it like a thousand dollar job because no paint will look good over bad bodywork, but if you've got your prep work done and intend to rattlecan on some paint this should help.
1) Find a paint you like the flow of and that has good adhesion. Rustoleum has one of the fastest flow rates and by far the longest dry time that I've tried. Also know that dry to the touch and cured are totally different and it will be fragile and prone to lifting and scratches until it cures. Other than that it should work well. I've never had satisfactory results with Krylon. Even Walmart's Color Place brand works pretty well,although the flowrate is much slower. It is probably the easiest to avoid runs. Duplicolor is probably the best I have worked with, but also the most expensive.
2) Lower flow rate paints could give you issues on larger panels like the hood. I'd recommend painting this either off the car or open so that you can avoid can tilt issues. Breaking large panels up with two-tone or stripe effects can help.
3) Because of overspray I'd recommend painting the top and hood (if left on car) before the sides.
4) If you must paint outside plan for weather conditions. In warm weather paint early, because rattlecans do lay down such thin amounts of paint if the metal has begun to warm up the paint will begin to dry faster than you can blend it and will cause tiger-stripeing and textureing.
#36
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Re: rattle can paint job
Photos at a distance are very forgiving. Even the ones up close can be misleading. If your standing right next to a rattle can paint job you "will" see the imperfections.I know because Ive seen one up close.The car looked pretty nice as I walked up to it but when I really had a good look,it looked bad, I mean real bad.The guy that painted it was going on about how much time he put into it,sanding,painting,buffing,it was a joke. There is a photo of my moms car in this thread with a $700.00 Maaco paint job that actually looks great, even up close. They even offer cheaper paint jobs.
Side note = I saved for over 2 years for mine,granted its not a maaco by any means,but the point is it can be done if you really try.
Side note = I saved for over 2 years for mine,granted its not a maaco by any means,but the point is it can be done if you really try.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; 12-10-2012 at 06:32 PM.
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