89Birddy

Hello, this is actually my first time posting on this place, but anyways. . .I have a question for anyone who wants to answer. I recently purchased a new spolier for my Firebird. . .its in great shape. . only thing is. . .its white, not black like the car. I got a quote for $133, which is not bad at all, but I was thinking I could probably paint it myself. Why not? Its a little piece and it would be a great learning experience. I will probably end up at the library reading books about it, but I was wondering if anyone has done this themselfs or if they could recomend any good books about it. Also, I work at a parts store, I know we sell many different types of paints and what not. Should I use this spray can paint, or buy the stuff the pro's use? Also as far as equipment goes, spray can or the real deal? How many coats do I need, and what types of paints go into this? (I.E. . primer, base, clear coat all that stuff)

Anyone have any ideas? I would greatly appreciate ANY help or advise. Thanks a lot!

David

Vortex_89rs

I don't think it would be hard to do at all. The problem is matching the paint to your car. Black is a difficult color to match.

Vman

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1969 Camaro Sport Coupe
383, 700R4, leather, everything black but the lights

Previous owner of an 89 RS Camaro
2.8L V6, 700R4

stingerssx

Definately do it yourself. That's really the best way to learn. Just take the car to a paint store so when you buy the paint, they can match it directly.

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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4

RCR

Having painted ground fx before, I can tell you it's pretty easy. Hot Rod magazine sells books about painting that are pretty good. If you're painting a flexible part, you'll need to add flex agent to the paint, so rattle canning it is pretty much out. I will admit that I thought I did a real good job on mine until I had a shop repaint the front bumper cover with my hood. Huge difference. They did a much better job.

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Bob '89 Formula CC350
Last(lost)Member of the Elusive Great Lakes Crew
My car's homepage

RB83L69

There's no reason you can't do it yourself.

Actually, if you go to a real paint and body supply store, they can put the pro kind of paint like you really want into a spray can.

The main thing is, you need a clean place to do it. Out in the middle of the front yard by the gravel road won't cut it. Bugs are death. Prime it and wet-sand with 400 grit it a few times with sandable auto primer to fill in any small scratches or whatever, then apply a few coats of the finish color, always in thin layers. Several thin coats is better than one thick one. Then after you get it all uniformly covered, wet sand it with 1500 grit, and put it on.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

89Birddy

Thanks a lot all fo you for the help, I greatly appreciate it. I went to the library today and picked a book up on painting, it seems to be kind of out of date. I plan on doing it in my garage, its pretty clean (for a garage, I guess. I figure since its a little piece and there isn't anything I can mess up, why not give it a shot, I might end up finding some lost talent of mine! If any of you ahve anymore advice or names of books or web pages I get my hands on that would be great! Thank again
David!


Also - I have a front clip that needs painting (Kid that owned before wrecked it, blah) I figure, if I do a good job ont eh spolier. . .why not then try the front clip?

87kevroc

This is a good book, lots of info.

http://shopping.yahoo.com/shop?d=b&id=2794897&cf=1

'How to Paint Your Car' by David Jacobs

82 TRANS AM

Birrdy, Yes learn how to do it but, do you really want to experiment with that car? And especially that part? $133 to paint that is'nt bad and the best part is, in most shops, you'll get a lifetime warranty. PPG and R-M anyway. If you do great, post a question and i'll try to help but tring to tell you how to do it by typeing is nearly imposible. When it comes to the flexible spoilers, i would bet most people on this board would love to have a lifetime warranty on thiers. The best advice i can give you is use common sense. Blow yourself off before painting, wipe the hose down, is the gun is clean inside and out, good clean airflow, ect. Black is the easiest color to match. Code 19 if thats what you have is just plain pure black. WA-8555 has white in the formula, and code 17 is metalic. In my opinion white is the hardest to match and the hardest to clear. Any little amount of tint takes white along way and when you clear it you practicly have to put your face in it to see it. Use top quality products. You get what you pay for. PPG is my personal favorite and very user friendly. Mil thickness is critical on those spoilers. Strip off all old paint.

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Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
72 Vista Cruiser 455
90 Olds Trofeo
80 K-10 w/snow plow
Painter @ Chevy dealer
GM junkie

89Birddy

Thanks for the advice man, I actually spent the past week at the Junior Colleges library reading their books on painting, and I learned a whole lot. So, I ended up painting the spolier this weekend. I spent probably 2 hours sanding (and wet sanding) From 40grain alllll the way down to 1500, and then I put on this plastic primer I found and wet sanded it at 400 and then 600 and then 1500. and then I started putting ont eh coats, one at a time. And infact I just got up to the computer from putting on teh second clearcoat and so far, it looks pretty good I think. I think for a somebody who ahs never done anything like it before, I did a damn good job. And even if it turns out to be messed up, yeah, i'll deffinatly take it to the shop and ahve them paint it, but I figure I might as well see what I coudl do first, that never hurts. Thanks for your advice, all of you!

stingerssx

Not to offend you or any book, but your going way out of control. You can leave out some of those steps.

What I normally do is start with 80 grit, then move to 220, then wet with 400. Then prime, then paint a guide coat. Then sand again wet with 800, and a final coat of paint, then, if required, the clear. For color sanding, 1200, then 2000, buff, polish, wax, glaze, and install. I think that for primer, 1500 is not corse enough. But, everyone does it differently.