kreator33

hey everyone,,yes i have to admit, i failed my paint job on my 86 trans am! its sad but thats life,, started painting it on new years eve,,,some friends showed up,i drank a bit too much,and i ruined the paint job,its black nason base/clear, looks ok,but i think what happened,is i sprayed the base coat over the nason epoxy sealer too quick,everywhere ,where it would be thicker,the sealer didnt dry enough,and when i sealed it with base and clear,it created air pockets and didnt stick to the previous high build primer.now i press on those bubbles ,and it peals off and underneath,the sealer is still sticky.its only in door jambs and hatch area and low spots where it was thicker but i guess i cant take a chance of having a big bubble lifting on the roof down the road.how should i fix that,,,strip the whole thing to high build primer(finished bodywork)? if i sand it all down,my nice body job is gonna get all wavy,chemical stripper i dont like ,cause some spots i have bodyfiller on top of old finish,dont want that to react with next paint,,, could a 4-5 days old paint like that come off nicely with a razor blade scraper? man this sucks,and the car has to be perfect since its black,,god i hate myself for painting a car on new years eve! please any advice

TransAM Joe

iTrader: (6)

Most epoxy sealers are minimum 2 hours flash then lay base or best overnight wet sand with 600 and go to base for the exact reason your describing.

Not real familiar with Nason so check your Tech sheet.

I personally like the second option especially if your in anything but a controlled environment paint booth.

Did you use 2k Primer under epoxy sealer? How long did you let flash between coats? Rushing the 2K between coats can cause lifting too.

From the sounds of it you need to stripe back down to a solid foundation, how far is hard to say. If problem areas are on doors, fenders, jambs you could just redo the whole panel without having to redo the whole car.

As much as I hate to say it best option is to stripe back down to nothing and start over.

Great step by step paint job Tips: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...ct%20paint.htm

kreator33

well,what i have is the bare shell,with the 2 door shells on,thats it, the car was finished to durabuild high build primer,and that was dry for a good few weeks now,,, i blocked sanded it up to 320-400 like they ask for the sealer,,,thats when i started doing things wrong,so the deepest solid foundation is that durabuild primer,,,the sealer,i rushed between coats,and sprayed the base way too soon, all my problems are in creases,like the frame of the hatch,inner door,and jambs,and the crease around the gas cap,,,, im sure i could get away by fixing that, but like i said,its a too big risk to take to leave the rest as is,it could peel later,or bubbles could appear under the sun, so yeah my best bet would be getting back to that high built primer...i have a paint booth, i painted tons of showcars,but this is the first time i do that kind of mistake,so thats why im not sure how to strip the new paint properly and with less hassle.id like to get rid of the sealer and up,,,but not ruine the rest of the bodywork that was all straight and bone dry for the past few weeks.would you sand that? or do you think it could be scraped since its still pretty fresh?

kreator33

basically my question is,,,how do i strip it?

TransAM Joe

iTrader: (6)

Hand sand/Long board down to primer, then I would epoxy seal one medium even coat, flash for 30 and one full coat sit overnight, wet sand with 600 and go to base.

kreator33

thanks,lots of work ahead,,,that'll teach me,dont drink and work! i got my lesson now, i apreciate your advice.ill post pics after im done.

kreator33

one last thing,what grit should i start with untill i see the primer,,,120?

TransAM Joe

iTrader: (6)

Start with least aggressive grit and see how it goes, maybe start with 220 if it's soft, if it goes slow step up to 180 and so on. If you go to aggressive and dig into your body work or past the durabuild your creating more work for your self. Remove as much peeling/lifting paint by hand.

If you still have really soft tacky areas, use solvent wash to remove, don't use anything aggressive enough to attack the filler or primer.

Hope this helps.