Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
#1
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 171
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From: Northeast Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS w/t-tops
Engine: BBC 396 .090 over (414)
Transmission: LS1 T-56
Axle/Gears: Shortened Ford 9, 3.25, discs, posi
Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
OK so I've seen this rust throughout my build and always thought it wouldnt be a problem... until when its getting close to being road worthy. Anyways ESSENTIALLY: This rust has to be fixed and there is no part out option. I already put the 4 link and cage in. Heres some pics
These first two pics are of the rust on either side of the windshield near the mirrors (A-pillars?)
These first two pics are of the rust on either side of the windshield near the mirrors (A-pillars?)
#2
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Northeast Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS w/t-tops
Engine: BBC 396 .090 over (414)
Transmission: LS1 T-56
Axle/Gears: Shortened Ford 9, 3.25, discs, posi
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
heres the pics of the rust on:
pic 1 and 2.) the rust by the t-top latch thingys
pic 3.) might be the worst of all. The rust on the drivers side corner by the B-pillar
more to come
pic 1 and 2.) the rust by the t-top latch thingys
pic 3.) might be the worst of all. The rust on the drivers side corner by the B-pillar
more to come
#3
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Northeast Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS w/t-tops
Engine: BBC 396 .090 over (414)
Transmission: LS1 T-56
Axle/Gears: Shortened Ford 9, 3.25, discs, posi
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
The final two pics are of the bad surface rust by where the t-top seals would be. The roof is not looking like its gonna be a fun fix, if any rust is a fun fix!
SORRY for the bad pictures. It seems like my camera didn't focus well.. maybe cause I dropped it about 17 times too many
SORRY for the bad pictures. It seems like my camera didn't focus well.. maybe cause I dropped it about 17 times too many
#4
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
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From: wv
Car: Firebird Formula(1988 changed to 91
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73(needs changed)
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
What i would do is use a grinder with an 80 grit flap disc and knock off all that rust and paint. If its just surface rust the flap disc will take it down to bare metal and leave a smooth, shiny surface. If the rust is deeper and you have holes then you might use a fiberglass repair batch or have a small metal patch welded in place. I doubt this would be structure problem and it can be fixed easily. This is for the A-pillars.
The other areas are bad and you will need to weld in some patches. Either use metal pieces and make small custom patches to weld in or look for a wreck car to cut the pieces out and weld in.
I have done patches on my rear wheel wells and fix it nicely.
The other areas are bad and you will need to weld in some patches. Either use metal pieces and make small custom patches to weld in or look for a wreck car to cut the pieces out and weld in.
I have done patches on my rear wheel wells and fix it nicely.
Last edited by firehawk1988; 02-27-2011 at 10:06 PM.
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 171
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From: Northeast Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS w/t-tops
Engine: BBC 396 .090 over (414)
Transmission: LS1 T-56
Axle/Gears: Shortened Ford 9, 3.25, discs, posi
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
OK! thanks! I'll probably pick up some 80 grit discs this week then. Would I be able to a disc on like a buffer or something, I just downsized garages majorly and now I don't have 220 and I have this half *** 110v air compressor.
#6
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: wv
Car: Firebird Formula(1988 changed to 91
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73(needs changed)
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
When it comes to grinding rust and metal, I picked up a Porter-cable grinder at Lowes for around $30 and it works great. I'm not sure if some buffers or sanders will use the Flap discs. Grinding wheels are usually 4 1/2 diameter.
#7
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 171
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From: Northeast Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS w/t-tops
Engine: BBC 396 .090 over (414)
Transmission: LS1 T-56
Axle/Gears: Shortened Ford 9, 3.25, discs, posi
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
I actually have that exact tool but I wasn't sure how much air it used. I'm thinking my compressor is way underpowered. Yours is pneumatic right?
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#8
Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: wv
Car: Firebird Formula(1988 changed to 91
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73(needs changed)
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
Its 120v electric. Its a typical grinder you'd find at Lowes. I use only my air sanders for body work(sanding and moving paint).
Your b pillar area will need to be grinded and cut out. A repair like this would need pieces to be cut out and welded in. I use small pieces of cardboard to make my templates and use for the sheet metal to cut out and fit proberly.
Your b pillar area will need to be grinded and cut out. A repair like this would need pieces to be cut out and welded in. I use small pieces of cardboard to make my templates and use for the sheet metal to cut out and fit proberly.
#9
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 171
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From: Northeast Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS w/t-tops
Engine: BBC 396 .090 over (414)
Transmission: LS1 T-56
Axle/Gears: Shortened Ford 9, 3.25, discs, posi
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
Ok, thanks! I just sold a couple parts today so I'll probably be goin to buy the grinder and discs tomorrow and post some new pics of the pilllars tomorrow also. I'm anxious to see what lies underneath cause it feels like someone tried to caulk fill it before or something, its all sticky and stretchy...
#10
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 262
Likes: 5
From: Toronto
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350 for now
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
From your description the rust is caused by the moisture trapped by the foam in the A-Pillar (see my other thread below). Best bet may be to cut out the rot since it is likely rotted from the inside out.
If you grind all the surface rust away and fill the spot it will be back in a few years (if not sooner).
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...de-pillar.html
If you grind all the surface rust away and fill the spot it will be back in a few years (if not sooner).
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...de-pillar.html
#11
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 845
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake
Car: 1989 IROC & ROLL-Z
Engine: L98 Vortec FIRST TPI
Transmission: T56, Mech Speedo
Axle/Gears: G92 J65 3.27
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
Yea i think a battery powered cutoff wheel at the junkyard might serve you well in this case, they you can tig weld the peice in and be done with it.
Seriously, that hole doesnt look like rust, looks like someone tried to hack thier way into your car heh...
the fiberglass patches work good also, i can vouch for those. Patched my Nova and 7 years later it was still holdin strong.
Seriously, that hole doesnt look like rust, looks like someone tried to hack thier way into your car heh...
the fiberglass patches work good also, i can vouch for those. Patched my Nova and 7 years later it was still holdin strong.
#12
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Northeast Ohio
Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro RS w/t-tops
Engine: BBC 396 .090 over (414)
Transmission: LS1 T-56
Axle/Gears: Shortened Ford 9, 3.25, discs, posi
Re: Rust on Pillar and T-top! HELP!
Ok, thanks. Ill post a pic of the other pillar. I didnt realize i posted the same pillar twice. But now that i go and look i have to edit because I only have the one pillar! The drivers side one is way worse
Last edited by iluvmy91camaro; 02-28-2011 at 07:37 PM. Reason: forgot pic.
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