Jeff14R

What a POS!
I bought a Harwood hood 2nd hand but new, never installed. First problem-mounting holes did not line up with hinges, had to elongate the holes in the hinges.
Put my front bumper on today to do some more aligning and the damn thing is set back about 3/4" and no adjustment left to pull the hood forward.
Another issue is the front lip is way too tall and will need shaved down for front of hood to lay on bumper.
More hours of prep before the body gets painted that didn't need to be.

Anyone else had major issues with these hoods?

Mad_IROC-Z

First, that front lip is like that for shipping. If you contact Harwood they will even tell you that.

It is odd though how the holes to the hinge did not line up. When I had mine, the nuts were on one plate inside. I did have to clean out a hole or two though as the nut plate was not rivited perfectly center to the bolt holes.

Mine lined up fine in the front but was a bit short in the rear. I may have had it all the way forward on the hinges also. The small amount where it was not perfect to the fender length on the bad was not bad since its curved.

Now if you want a real POS get a UP22. I had one of their first and it was such a mess it would have taken toooo much work and I found the Harwood to be ten times better. The UP22 did not stay on my car long but with the lack of customer service and standing behind their product I kept that hood to show others of the poor quality (more like a lack of quality).

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

As already pointed out, that big lip is for shipping and needs to be cut down. You bought it second hand so I doubt you had the instructions to read that part. Even then, I've seen people bitch about that lip when they did have the instructions. The Harwood hood that I bought probably 6 years ago fits great. Bolted right up and I trimmed the edge to be about like the factory hood. Just remember this, just because it's new doesn't always mean it's going to be correct when dealing with custom or aftermarket parts.

Jeff14R

No, I did not have instructions with it, I looked online and could not find a set.
I can see why they would leave the lip for shipment.
My hood has a nice finished underside, no rivets. The metal that the bolts go in are nicely finished into the hood.
As a reproduction part I understand it will not be perfect, although it can and should be, if it was in a 1/8-1/4" of the original hood I would have been happy but this hood is probably 1/2" shorter, as compared to were it should fit front to back.

Are all 3rd gen hood hinges the same, could there be a small difference between a couple years?

white gold 88

Jeff, did you try moving the hinge forward on the fender?

Mad_IROC-Z

The hinges are the same.
I think Harwood says you can cut that lip down to an 1/8 inch. What I did was take 1/8 tape and run in along the line I wanted to keep and cut down most of it then used a long board to make it straight. Be sure to leave a taper where the front lip meets the sides.

Pull the hood and hinges all the way forward to meet the bumper cover right and see it it really looks as bad in the rear to the fenders.

Aslo what I did at the front lip was to use some 3M fiberglass/SMC two part repair adheasive stuff and filled the area between the hood skin and inner structure. Made it a smooth transition and gave a little extra strength. But before I did that the hood had no problems. I just did it because.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Had same problems with my harwood i bought second hand.... wasnt happy with the fit but i got it for a good price and cut it up anyway

ovaled the holes to get it to fit the stock brackets, basically slotted them to move the hood forward as well as adjust the main brackets to allow for more movement anyway. Trimmed the sides down to get it to close more.

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

http://www.eharwood.com/pdf/Bolt-On-...structions.pdf

I had a friend trim his and it didn't work.

Jeff14R

The problem is that the back holes of the hood -hinge to hood- are not in the correct position, enough that you could not even get a bolt in. I had already ground it out some to get a bolt in it. I was able to slot the hinge hole more and use a non hood bolt with a smaller washer to get it moved up. I just have to shave the lip now.
As much as these hoods cost you would think this would not be happening.

Thanks for the instructions FueledSoul

Mad_IROC-Z

How many times have any of us said that about some aftermarket part raise your hands

Jeff14R

Don't make me feel bad for bitchin now..lol

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Just the nature of the beast with a lot of parts. How would you like to buy a new door shell from a place only to find out it's a half inch shorter lengthwise to your original? Guys are running into that on older vehicles.

Mad_IROC-Z

88-00 Chevy trucks. Anyone who has gotten a new door shell from the dealer and, since the hinges are welded on, a new hinge kit will say WYF when they hang the door and it drops in the back!
I hate to bend new metal because it helps make it weak so shave about an 1/8 off the top hinge and the door fits perfect. Pretty damn bad though for OEM parts.

Jeff14R

I hear you, at my buddies shop, he has better luck usually with aftermarket late model panels. He is always screaming about how the OEM parts wont line up.