Firebirda7x

Hello, I just bought my first Firebird, an 86 Trans Am. GTA wheels, 5.0 TPI, WS6 suspension, 255 wide tires, the works. I love it. However I was not able to lift it up on a rotary lift until today when I brought it into auto class. I paid $1,700 for it and it's in pretty good condition just had a bit of carpet showing through the drivers seat floorboards and patches of torn metal or rust in random places. Stuff like fuel filter needs replacing, some mild corrosion on starter wire, radiator support is a bit rusty, ect. Under the hood you can see front left and right quarter panels are diff colors, it was painted.

I don't know much about older vehicles, but to me this is something I'd expect from a 24 year old vehicle. Everyone is telling me I got ripped off, though. Did I? I figured it's still cheaper to fix this stuff than to pay a premium for a car that is in mint condition. I live in NH, and IF you can find one it's going to be going for $4-5k.

collin2201

A little bit of rust through the floorboards is typical for a lot of older cars.
For $1700, I think you got a good deal. A little bit of work and a few dollars here and there, it should be good as new.

Firebirda7x

I love it myself. It's my first rear wheel drive car, first car with a V8, and I LOVE Firebirds. Already lined up to patch and weld any spots. My classmates in the auto program say that the 3rd gen F-bodys need major structural reinforcement if I'm going to do the 350 swap, and stuff. I can't really tell if I made a mistake or not buying it. Here are pics btw...seems pretty good considering it's 24 years old....











And the rust

collin2201

For $1700, that looks pretty amazing. Interior and exterior looks to have held up well.
Yeah, you got a good deal in my opinion.

Good find!

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

the floors look a little scary, i owuld at the very leasty get under there, wirewheel all the loose stuff off and POR the underside, or at least through some paint on it to stop/slow the growth of the rust.

The driverside floor in the first pic looks to be rotted through.

However, if it runs and drives well, its a good buy for 1700 bux.

as for the 350 swap, the most you would need are a set of subframe connectors, and even then, unless you really beat the car and the engine make a lot of power, you could get by without. Again, this also depends on the rest of the floors rust issue.

Firebirda7x

Yea I'm replacing the floor and welding that hole shut. I believe if I patch up the bad spots it should be as good as new....everything that is an issue is really minor. It runs great and I'm pretty excited I finally have my car.

The only thing I don't like is the wimpy 2.73 1st gear it has. It was every other option but no 3.3 or 3.7 :/

92 Camaro

iTrader: (1)

that's a wacky exhaust.
you listen to cassettes too?

Firebirda7x

The exhaust actually sounds wicked. The kid before put it on. He has them bent down too much, I am going to adjust them. But the car has a loud deep rumble, it sounds like there's a stroker motor in there. it's jus ta Y pipe no true dual. And no cassettes...but the kid did wire in new speakers subs and a "bazooka tube". It just needs a better radio.

Firebirda7x

So I am looking at replacing the 3 foot or so section of rot or just saving up $320 and replacing the whole floor. That's the price I got on Summit racing for a new complete floor. Which choice would be better for someone with no machining or fabrication experience? My classmates said to just cut out any spot with rot and weld new steel over it. I need to get this inspected soon so I stop getting cop attention and I know in New Hampshire any rust they find they will **** about.

92 Camaro

iTrader: (1)

not with what you showed in the first picture. take everything out and see what you get.

Firebirda7x

Huh? Do you mean redo the entire floor?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

well, before you jump on the floro project, you should pull the seats, conole and carpet and see what the rest of the floor looks like.

you may be able to get away with patch panels. Replacing the entire floor is a very indepth project, require bracing the body ( floors are structual) a lot of cutting, removing a lot of spotwelds and other factory braces, brackets, rails, ect, then welding it all back in. Its all do-able, but not a good project for a beginner.

Firebirda7x

Ok. A buddy is able to get me free sheet metal cuz he works in a factory and they throw that **** out a lot, so I got free metal and a welder at my house. That sounds like the best plan.

What do I do with rust in the second rust pic? Where it's on the side where the panels are bent and formed and not just flat? And can I replace the pinch welds? I'm restoring this car and I want to get the body in perfect condition so I can coat it and not worry about future rusting.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

if its more than just surface rust, the only way to replace the metal and keep the contours, would be to use patch panels form a doner car, or find somebody who is REALLY good at sheetmetal forming and try to reproduce it, but good luck trying that, its really hard.

You need to find out whats totally rotted through and whats surface rust and start there.

92 Camaro

iTrader: (1)

what he said.
that or get those sections new.

Firebirda7x

Yea i just need it to be inspectable right now. I have a 350 from a 74 Chevelle lined up to drop in there, I'm rebuilding it with a friend in class. Want the body to be ready so I don't gotta worry about rust