383 Power

iTrader: (2)

My Doors sag. This is nothing new, but i was looking at the hinge and saw something that i thought was VERY VERY strange. It looks like the hinge is SEVERELY worn (See Pic). Have you guys ever seen this before? Am i just not looking at it right?

BTW, i was in an auto parts store yesterday and one of the employees came up to me asking if that was my Camaro outside. I said "Yes. Why? Is it on fire?" She laughed and said that it wasn't on fire and she had some body parts if i was interested. I asked her what she had and she said a pair of doors, a hood, and a Deck Lid from an 85 Berlinetta. I asked how the doors were and she said they're in nice shape. Then i asked how much she wanted and she said $50. I said for both? She said yes. I bought em. they're pretty nice, but they're Power. I need standard. Can I Swap them over easily? No, i don't really want power either. I would rather not deal with window motors and wiring.

regal301

that hinge is toast.it will come off with the doors.fenders have to come off to change the doors.

the regulators will swap over i did a set for a friend,swapped manual for power.you will have to drill the rivits out for the regulators,its not fun but not hard.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

you say the fenders have to come off to change the doors? That's odd. Why is that? Also, how hard is it to remove the fiberglass nose piece and do i have to remove that to get the fender off? Isn't there somewhere i can go to get step-by-step instructions? I'm new to all of this, but it's lucky that i have just ordered a new fender for the driver's side. I'll hold off on installing it until i have the door ready for installation.

regal301

the top hinge bolts are behind the fender from the outside and the lower hinge bolts are inside from the kickpanel.

i take the fenders off with the nose/bumper so you dont have to fight with the bolts up in front of the fenders.

also the hood hinge bolts to the top of the fender so you will need a helper. i have unbolted the fender and hood on one side had a friend hold the hood and fender away from the door and got in with a gear wrench on the top hinge.but you need a fender so take the hood off and then the fenders and nose in one piece.a jack or ramps to lift the front of the car up a little helps too.

you shouldent need a book,and i dont know if the chilton/haynes manual really goes into the body that far.

1piece@atime

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it's a good plan to hold off on changing the fender, because if you are going to change or repair a hinge it is easier with the fender off. If you are just changing the door it easily unbolts from the hinge. Then the only reason to loosen the body side of the hinge is for adjustment of the door.

Your hinge pic above is showing the roller, spring and arm that holds the door open. The roller is definitely worn and the arm has dropped down off of it and is now running on the pin. From the pic you can't see the hinge pins and bushings that usually wear out and cause the door to sag at the rear. Roller pins are available for some newer cars. And pretty easy to change. Not sure about 3rd gens. Just a thought if the rest of your hinge is in good shape.


If you unbolt the hood hinge bolts, where they go thru the fender, and hold the hood up with a prop then you can leave the hood on and just slide the fender out from under it. You shouldn't have to remove the bumper cover completely to remove the fender. You have to remove the nuts from the bumper cover on the side you're changing, you should be able to slip the fender off the studs that stick thru the front of the fender. If you need a little more wiggle room just remove the row of bolts along the top, that are just inside the bumper cover, that go down into the hood latch panel. That will allow the bumper cover to be pulled out away from the fender a little.

You want step by step instructions? Here goes...
Remove all necessary bolts and nuts. To install do the reverse.

Lol you know I'm just kidding but it's really about that easy to change a fender. The hard part is getting it to line up properly. If ya need help just ask.

1piece@atime

iTrader: (1)

Dammit! I always forget ... I drive a Pontiac. Your Camaro bumper cover may mount a little differently across the front. Sorry.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

Well, i have removed the Motor from inside of one of my new doors. I also freed the Regulator from the tracks and tried to remove it too, but it won't come out. I let the regulator alone for a while and decided to try to remove the window first. Maybe that would help. Well, i can't get the window out either. I did the the Triangle thing out of the front. I actually thought that this would be key in removing the window. This door is quite a mess now. My plan was to strip the door completely and start from scratch. I wasn't going to start assembling the door until i got it painted. I figured that it would look ALOT better that way. I'm not very good at this ****.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

the side view mirror was the key. The window and regulator are out now.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know where i can find new Latches for my doors or is there a kit to rebuild the ones that i have? Are the latches on an electric door different than a manual door? My Door is now stripped and i want this thing to be back to as new condition as possible before i install it in place of the one that's there now.

white gold 88

I believe I've seen the latches in Classic Industries book. Pricey though. They are the same with either windows. There are different listings for different years though. Not really sure what is the difference. Those door rollers and pins are available through GM and others. Not that hard to change.

383 Power

iTrader: (2)

The new doors have good hinges, but i'll probably change them anyhow since i have them off the car.