Tash3r

Hi, I'm new to working on cars and was wondering what you fellow thirdgeners would recommend I should do about my rust.

Should I just start sanding down the areas that are bad, I want to get a new paint job cause mine is all sun faded but I won't be able to do it myself. Do you guys know of any good paint shops?

any info would be appreciated.

Tash3r

Here are some more

psp963

i have been working on my car 2 but mine is grey.

i recommentd u take dat flaky loose paint off with a wire brush..or if u have a wirebrush wheel connnected to a drill or compressor.

---then use a grinder to grind it all away (rust)...well the surface until it is clean...bare metal....(silver)

----then sand around the whole thing.... and prime it...then bondo over to even it out... and prime that and paint. ill show u my progress 4 some ideas.

psp963

i have these pictures...heres a picture of a semi-ready ...almost done removing rust spot...as u can see it still has rust by the idea is to grind at it intil it is bare metal. so then can be primed and so forth...ill add some other pix of progress.(just put the rally rims on) =D

any questions or confusion??

Tash3r

sweet thanks for the info, what grit sandpaper should I use?

jj74sd455

if you are taking anything down to bare metal,primer alone is not enough,if you are gonna spend the time then do it right. use an etching primer first, this will keep moisture out because bare metal will suck moisture through primer.if you dont have a spray gun you can usually buy a aerosol type applicator to use a good primer at any paint and body store. 80 grit is a good paper to use to get to bare metal. on top of bondo you will want to use a finer sandpaper like 120 and then 240,this will help save time later.when you prime over the bondo the coarser scratches from 80 will show. when i worked at a dealership i used to hate the bodyman because all he would use was 80 grit cause it was fast. it takes more time to prime,guidecoat(spaycan dark color like black on primer and sand,low spots will keep the paint in em)sand,prime,guidcoat,sand, until the scratches from the work he left are gone.

psp963

yeh 74 sd---ur rightabout the primer didnt include that...i forgot all those little details..tips and tricks...

i dont know as much as you haha but i slow down that rust by a 1/4 mile =D

well it depends wat your going 2 use it for. at pep boys they have all the diffrent types of grits. and by steps.which is pretty much like 1st 2nd 3rd which makes it reallly easy. thats the easier part. where i saw ur guna need work is on your door...the hardest will be fixing rust that has went through ..in others words eaten thru and made a hole...some can be patched..others need you to cut out the piece and weld in a new piece of metal. but i think u can patch it.

maverick22

My 84 had surface rust and a bit of other tiny rust spots all over probably not as deeply penetrated as yours, altho using 60 grit gator paper (very coarse and can be found at autozone pepboys etc) Its a great stripper, got the rust right off and quick, just make sure to use primer sealer and tack cloth clean it between sanding and before you prime, tack cloth is cheap and usu. like 2.99 at oriellys or other places. I recommend for sensitive areas sanding by hand as you can properly apply the right amount of abrasiveness evenly and carefully.I liked to use 1000 grit to 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper for sanding the primer and evening it out. Just my ..

Spikeophant

The first thing I do when I get a car with rust is use a chemical called Ospho to stop the rust, that gives me a bit to decide how I want to go about it, especially if I'm not totally ready to paint the car yet. Ospho chemically changes the iron oxide into iron phosphate, which is then paintable. It's much easier than grinding down, and works great. I have cars that I've just ospho'd and ran, and the rust never spread. Really, you want to paint it once you're done with the Ospho though.

Tash3r

thanks for all the advice everybody, I plan on getting rid of the rust and then using bondo to level it all out. I don't have the space or the skill to paint it myself though.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

try to use the least amout of bondo. use fiberglass (kitty hair) on pitted areas then bondo

maverick22

Painting is easy and really fun, just remember to mask off with some old newspaper, painting the RS spoiler I had was fun and very easy, just make sure you clean with some tack cloth first and that all the newspaper is properly secured with some good masking tape or even electrical tape works fine. Try it out, I painted my roof after sanding off all that surface rust and priming it with primer sealer. Your local auto parts supplier should have some aerosol automotive paints, no gun needed, diggin the wheels btw.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

why why why why do i keep finding people using newspaper and electrical tape to mask off their cars when they wanna paint it. i still dont get you guys. pls xplain to me n pls dnt use the "is cheaper" xcuse

campin1983

iTrader: (4)

I'm looking at the poster's pictures, and it looks to me like there's some spots that go all the way through. Those spots need to be cleared up and cut out first. Its hard to tell, but depending on whats going on, there's some metalwork involved there. The bottom of that door is messed up and is gonna need replaced and that spot behind the rear wheel is gonna be more than just sand, bondo, repaint.

You need to get a lot of that paint off, sand down the rust, and see how much goes through. If your lucky it'll be something that can be patched.

And as said already, keep the bondo to a minimum. Its supposed to be more of a finishing product to smooth things out. If your using it as much more than that, it'll come back to bite you later.

Tash3r

ya the door and the spot behind the rear wheel are gonna need the most work. When I get a place to work on the car I want to pull the motor and start on the engine bay also, cause it is pretty bad.

maverick22

Easy, if you work on your own car you'll have electrical tape, its very user friendly, try using something like duct tape and you'll see how harsh i can be on the good paint when you are removing the newspaper and tape. Electrical tape peels off easier..

campin1983

iTrader: (4)

The problem with electrical tape is that its rather thick and leaves fairly significant height differences in the paint. Newspaper can also get saturated and seep through, causing you to accidentally paint where you didn't intend to.

Masking products are made for just these purposes, and they aren't so expensive that they should be unaffordable for anyone who is painting (even rattlecanning).

Explanation aside, lets get because the poster has some fairly significant rust issues, and I'm pretty sure the method of paint masking is the least of his worries right now. If anyone has dealt with this sort of rust successfully, I'm sure he'd like tips or pics of that. Maybe start or participate on a "discount painting" thread would be more appropriate for the painting products argument.

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

thanx just wanted to make this guys understand theres no xcuse to cut corners on paint plus this will help our friend here not to follow this kinda foot steps...

Bump
ill look through the pictures of the wrk ive done see if i can find some for him

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

rust is called cancer now theres no cure for cancer... the only way to stop rust is to cut the affected part and weld a new pice to it... now theres cheap alternatives the best is fiberglass.. first wire brush it worket with fiberglass and then some bondo to smooth it out. now i cant see the car so i cant see all details but the parts that are rusted trough and they have body lines on it like the wheel wells and fenders is better tu cut and welld ne piece dont try to pull a picasso and shape it with bondo

Spikeophant

Yeah, no cure for rust, in the aircraft world they call dealing with rust "corrosion control" since metal is always corroding, no matter what you do. Even if you cut out the worst of it, and weld in new metal, you're still just controlling the corrosion. If you want to weld in new pieces on the doors and behind teh wheel well, I have a 73 Dodge Dart I'm going to be replacing the quarter panel extensions on in a few weeks, I'll take some pics and put a corrosion control thread together on how I do my work, if you guys want. I am also replacing the trunk floor, well, parts of it. I already welded in new floors.

Tash3r

sweet man I really appreciate it. I look forward to reading your thread.