Stephen

iTrader: (12)

For that purpose only, sure. Its fine.

But again.....Turn the ignition off, hop out (with the keys still in) he's locked himself out, since the button is dead.

Stephen

iTrader: (12)

Geeez, pull your panties outta your crack.....I wasn't criticizing you. I was QUESTIONING how useful it would be. Chill out.

But hey...WHEN you lock your keys in & can't get, because your button is dead? Just remember me.

88camaroluvr

I then hooked a wire up to the remote wire leading from the head unit of my stereo and it wouldn't get in the way if I had to replace my head unit. I then ran that new wire over to my existing relay. I started tracing wires and reading diagrams and blah blah blah. I finally got fed up with that crap and just got out my trusty wire tester (has a light on it telling me if one side is touching the negative or if it's touching the positive). I tried out the first relay of two and found a ground wire. I then turned the ignition to on and touched the new remote wire to the ground on the relay and my drivers door popped open! So I just had to put the switch between the remote wire and the ground on the relay. And then put the switch in place and ran the wire from it through the firewall.

88camaroluvr

I'm not doing this with you Stephen. Take it somewhere else.


Then spliced one wire from the button to the ground on the relay and put the other wire from the button on the wire coming from the remote wire. I then prayed and tested it out and thanks to God's greatness I had the power to wire it all correctly. I then buttoned everything up and took the video. I did everything slow and correct, using zip ties, silicone, solder, wire connectors, and heat shrink tubing. It's all done correct down to every detail. No reason to skimp out when it comes to wiring. And my seats should show what kind of results I plan on expecting. Corbeau A4 racing seats.

mechanic1992

Isnt there a shaved door handle kit out there that all you have to do is just touch the sensor on the door and the door pops open? you have to shave the lock as well, but i thought i saw it on Overhaulin or a different show sometime

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Yes there is. I can't think of the name right now, but if you go to Autoloc's website you should be able to find it. Its a lot more expensive than your regular shaved door handle kit though IIRC.

mechanic1992

Yeah, the reason i brought that up was because over the course of this forum people were throwing the whole button idea around, and then saying that someone would find that and break into your car and stuff like that so i was just throwing out that idea, that way you can still lock and unlock your car and just touch the sensor to get into your car without having to worry about the whole button issue. it would be a cool setup in my opinion, or the Vette doors look sick, like what Neil did.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

I saw that sensor thing on "Trick My Truck" on Nashville Network couple yrs ago.Yea it's a great idea for shaved doors!

wulfgar the pen

ok i had the idea a few times but i guess i didn't explain it well enough, get the remote popper for the doors, and keep a key to the hatch in your wallet or something, wire a set of button poppers in the trunk area of the car so if, lets say, you lock your keys in the car, runnig or not, you open the trunk with the key, reach in and push the button poppers to open your door. the day is saved, you get in your car with minimal effort. in fact it'd work better for cars with shaved handles since without door locks, you wouldn't need your trunk key on your keychain, hence it sits safely in your wallet for emergency use...

saves a little time with wiring a relay to a button that only works when its running, and eliminates most of the problems that this work causes IMO....

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

I just wanted to toss up a quick update to my door setup. I've again had a few issues this summer with my solenoids. Well, just the driver's door solenoid actually. The little e-clip that holds the plunger in place keeps bending when the solenoid releases and eventually slips off the end of the plunger. This renders the door(s) inoperable from the outside. Gotta pop the passenger door, crawl through and open the driver's door. Not fun in the rain!! What I did to fix it(so far) is to replace the oem cup washer that sits below the e-clip with a pair of regular flat washers.

It has been working fine like this for a little over a month now. I have replaced the e-clip and even tried wedging 2 e-clips on at the same time, clipped on from opposite sides. If it breaks again, I think I'm going to cut the return spring on the plunger. The problem is that the return spring is too strong and is pounding the e-clip and washers against the body of the solenoid when it releases. This is causing the e-clips to fail over time.

And these are supposed to be the "good" Autoloc solenoids.

88camaroluvr

More stuff to add...

I went ahead and put some rubberized undercoating on the inside of the door where you grab to pull the door fully open. I taped off a little square and just inside the lip on the side and just sprayed.

TIP: put down a light first coat and let it dry for ten minutes. Then when you spray a second coat and cover up any more visible paint/metal, hold the can almost two feet away from the surface when you spray. This gives the coating a chance to dry a bit in the air before it hits the surface and gives the surface a little more texture.

TIP: Pull off the tape right after you finish painting. This lets the undercoating settle down and blend better to the surface.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

So I was watching tv tonight and surfing during the commercials when I came across a Ford commercial touting their "new" keyless entry system on some new model. For whatever reason, I thought that maybe something similar could be used on our cars with shaved door handles. I know the keyless entry system with the touchpad buttons on the driver's door has been used for almost 20 years now and should be fairly easy to find in a junkyard. Adapting it to a thirdgen shouldn't be that hard, depending on how the control module is set up. If its part of the car's computer, which I doubt, it would be almost impossible to do. I would think its a separate module though. Finding the code would be the other issue, but I believe there is a way to reprogram them. At least, I would assume there is.

I'm just thinking out loud here, but let me know what you think. I'm going to look into this a little more as time permits as I think it would be a neat way to solve the oh-****-I-left-my-keys-in-the-car problem we have with shaved door handles. I don't think the touchpad would even have to mounted on the door. I could be put behind the license plate. Does anyone have any experience with keyless entry touchpad systems that could chime in on the feasibility of this idea?

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

I have a 1994 Taurus SHO, and it has the keyless entry pad. The computer for it is in the trunk, and the CODE IS PRINTED ON A LABEL ON THE COMPUTER. You can change the code by unsoldering a resistor, and soldering a new, different-value resistor in it's place.

Typing in your code unlocks the driver door, typing in the code and then hitting 3 unlocks all doors, hitting 5 after the code unlocks the trunk, and hitting 7 and 0 at the same time locks all the doors.

LTL_DMON

iTrader: (1)

That is exactly what happen the the T/A in my sig... I've been planning to just do away with the locks and keep the door handles with my future T/A.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

That's what I've been reading online. Most of the Ford vehicles with the keypad seem to have the computer in the trunk. Its nice that the computers have the code printed on them, that makes things a lot easier. Next time I hit the JY I'm gonna try and pull one of these systems. I was thinking of mounting on the underside of the hatch so it's right above the license plate when the hatch is closed. I figure it will be protected from rain/dirt there and won't be visible. Although it might look kinda cool to mount it where the door handle was on the door.

ScaryOne - Do you happen to have a pinout on the keypad and computer connectors, or a wiring diagram for the system?

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

I have the 94 Ford Shop manual on CD somewhere. My room is a mess, but as soon as I find it, I'll see if I can screenshot some diagrams.

I personally like the ford auto-down modules for windows. Quick tap for auto-down, or hold it for a second for manual. Seems to be easy to retrofit, as I can add it to my passenger door and sunroof.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

If you could post the diagrams, that would be great! I've been wanting to do an auto window retrofit as well. I want to tie it into the control module for my doors so I can roll the windows down with the remote. That way i don't have to open the doors to take the T-tops off. Just hit the button for the trunk and for the windows.

Norwood

iTrader: (1)

Just thought I'd share a product that is bad to the bone. http://www.avsontheweb.com/product.p...137&bestseller They make a shave door kit that is a bolt on for third gens. It is a motor driven actuator instead of solenoids so they can't freeze and are not loud and clunky, just a little thunk sound.
My son pointed these out to me to put on his S10 and they fit and work like factory. I liked them so much I put a pair on my 89 RS and couldn't be happier.
I also bought their optional wire harness with relays that is almost plug and play. It includes a long cable you can run anywhere (I ran mine up under the front bumper) and if you get locked out or your battery dies you just touch the 2 wires to any 12 volt battery and it pops your driver door. I even used a 18 volt drill battery with no problems. Also hooked it into my alarm so I can pop it on my aux channel.

camarozz383

iTrader: (2)

I bought a kit of ebay, here is my door shaved.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

That kit Norwood mentioned looks promising. I may go with that on the RS next time around in the paint booth.

Convoy25

iTrader: (3)

my friend has the keypad on his Ford, its pretty cool. you can also pop the trunk with it.

although i have no idea how hard it would be to put it on a third gen.


this made me think of that other new thing they have with cars.

idk if im describing it right but

theres a "transmitter"? on your keychain and a sensor on the door handle. if you have the transmitter in your hand or near you you can open the door. i think it also removes all possibility of locking the keys in the car.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Your thinking of an RFID keyfob. They also have ones that can be used to start the car. You toss the keys in the ashtray and press the Start button and the car starts. I've been looking into doing something like that also, but so far I can't find anything in my price range new and those cars are too new to be in the JY's in my area.

One reason I didn't suggest that for the doors is I'm not sure how sensitive the receivers are and I'm afraid I'd constantly be popping the doors open by accident.

Convoy25

iTrader: (3)

i dont think it actually pops the doors open, it just unlocks its, you still have to pull/lift the door handle.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Right. However, in a shaved door handle application, there are no locks to unlock. The door just pops open when you hit the remote.

92RS_Ttop

iTrader: (3)

Finally got around to starting the install of the Ford Keyless Entry system I had suggested earlier. I started a thread over in Electronics to show the progress if anyone is interested:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ml#post4460615