Deleted. Do not PM me questions I will not answer.

 

Looks like a good thread. Any pics of the finished product?

 

I like threads like this.

BTW, glad to see you got another thirdgen...when did you find it?

 

I'm interested in seeing the finished product. Looks good so far.

 

I think that this thread will deserve a STICKY when he is finished posting the final result.

 

Car is not finished yet. I expect to roll it in the booth thursday maybe even tomorrow night, but thursday worse case senario.

Like I said before this is not a professional $5000 paint job. Not everyone can afford this, but anyone can afford a week of time and $250 to make your car look better than it did. You saw the before pics, my car was awful. If you even mess up painting it you can most likely rub it out later since enamel is quite thick.

Also, there is alot to body work. Tomorrow I will take pictures of how to fill in a hole with spot putty and even show you how to mix bondo.

I am worried about painting due to the temp. You want around 70-75* its like 50* I have a 150,000 BTU heater but it does not spread heat evenly. So I will show you a trick with that later.

I do not think this should be a sticky since this isn't the professional way and you know there will be the haters who will compare this to MAACO and the such. So bare with me and I will show everyone what they want to see.

Any particular things anyone wants to see or know?

 

I found it a while ago, I bought it for $1000, just needed a clutch and it drove great. Came with some extras and man I got a great deal Now, I have transplated a modified 700 and all sorts of odds and ends I am happy. There are some minor kinks ECM wise that are being sorted out.

 

Write up is a good read. Can't wait to see some more progress pics

 

ok so you have a paint booth? but your using rattle cans. hmmm

whats the life expentancy of rattle can paint? have you done this before? did i t last more than a year when out in constant weather?

just curious.

jeff
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opps ok not i see your not useing all rattle cans. single stage isnt a bad thing wont last like a base clear but your 100% correct on cost.

you should also list the equipment needs. spray guns and compressor ect.

 

I love threads like this, I think they're very interesting and produce good results. I can't wait to see the finished product!

 

YEA, i cant wait to ne this NELAPS!

 

I can prove record of you flaming me in a previous thread about painting. If you start getting childish I will make sure admins are notified. Otherwise you are most definately welcome here.

I will add more tonight around 10-11 PM eastern

 

BOY O BOY, I can't wait to see this, you have done some really great work.

 

I will paint the car tomorrow for sure so stay tuned. Tonight I will be posting more tutorials and steps, plenty of pics!

 

Good information. I've garage painted cars & bikes in the past, single stage and bc/cc, but I enjoy reading the exploits of others.

Are you using a full booth for the final paint?

 

My paint looks good, but always like to see the progress of a quality mechanic's project .
Hanging on to this.

 

That's my kind of paint job - cheap.
I just need a booth and compressor... Damn, i'm a ways off.
Nonethe less, i'm tacking on to this thread.

 

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Photobucket is down... once it pulls its' head out of its rear I will continue.

 

Good prep work! Painting is 80% prep and 20% paint. A good prep guy can make a bad paint job look good, and a good paint job is hard to hide bad prep. Seems like you are into quality...I LIKE!

 

Salivating for the results.

 

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im dead serious, i wanna see it when its done. make sure you feather those bondo edges...

 

I want to see how it turns out also!!

 

this thread is awesome. i cannot wait for the results.

 

Be sure to add what kind of spray gun and compressor you used. I'm about to buy a gun and compressor but don't know how big of one i'll need.

 

im watchin this one!
gj man

 

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Not bad for 250 Cant waite to see the finished pics. Did you mix any kind of flex agent with the paint for the bumpers?

 

As for the guns... I bought a HVLP gun from harborfreight and it was $45 sometimes it will be on sale for $35. Mine came with the adjustable regulator on the gun itself which was great.

My compressor is 100 gallon, with 7 hp motor. You will get the same results with a 30 gallon.

Again... I am not a professional never did I say I was, but the results were not bad. I got a bit or orange peel, but anyone would in the same temperature. Orange peel isn't terrible since you can rub it out and it would be a good idea to rub it out anyways even if your paint job came out great because a rub out will get you the high gloss shine you wanted in the first place.

So start getting those rust buckets into shape.

 

Enamel is laced with acrylic... which is kinda odd when you think about it. Enamel is soft and plyable. Acrylic is hard and tough. When you get them together you get a tough flexible paint. No flexing agent needed.

 

Is this similar to your paint kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/True-...spagenameZWDVW

 

What about the heater you said you could make heat evenly?

 

Awesome, it's cool that someone finally can post a how to with pictures for body work (even though the main focus here is the cheap paintjob.) I'll be keeping an eye on this one.

 

You are right The heater was too big to fit and I could not spray while it was on since it is 150,000 BTU's and I had off spec jet fuel in it instead of kerosine. lol The fact is as soon as I turned on the blower for the booth the heat just disappeared in a flash. So I was back at square one.

There are no fish eyes, or anything crazy just some minor orange peel which is fine since it is easily fixed. I could easily rub it out and buff it tomorrow but I really do not have time.

 

It is not the same company but it is exactly the same. It is all you need. That paint stores very well. If you do not mix it and even after you open it you can have it for a long time.

Here was my kit



Here were my supplies in a nut shell

 

wow, great work man! i'm really paying attention to these cheap paint threads and slowly building courage, lol. my '88 sure needs it!

Josh

 

Regardless of what your new paintjob is a show stopper or not it is there to protect the car itself. So not betray the only thing carrying your weight. Take care of the car and she will be good to you

 

yep, i have found that out first hand being a mechanic, i've seen the cars people neglect and the pampered ones...cars have a personality...

Josh

 

I rather like cheapo paint... if I ding up my door or fender I always have a half gallon sitting on the shelf waiting to be mixed. Even if you toss it out it cost less than $100 for a new kit so if lets say... change your hood... then you are golden...

I leave the engine bay semi-flat because if you scratch it up or what not it is an easy rattle can blast away and that stuff blends very well to the old.

 

those are some very good points...my bro does paint and body but he's all the way in Alabama and i'm here in Texas so this cheaper paint seems like a good idea...now i just need to find a place to do it and a compressor...

Josh

 

looks great man, for a daily driver it is a great way, i just couldnt do that for one of my resto's or show cars. but great for a buget daily.

 

The last time I painted was my bike a last winter. I heated my garage up to 75 with a salamander and then sprayed after shutting off the heater (open flames and bc/cc don't mix). I then opened the door partially and ran the fan to clear the fumes. Then I shut the door and reheated the garage and kept it at 75 until the paint cured. The orange peel was minimal and it buffed out real nice.

This is before color sanding and buffing:


The two layers of flames are done with the Createx water-based pearl paints.

PS: Not wanting to corrupt your thread but wanted to show, as you have done, that it doesn't take a pro to get a good paint job. Just good prep and attention to detail.

 

nice thread, I plan on bc/cc but you do a really good job of explaining the body work, and thats the hard part. cant wait to see it rubbed out, and look forward to the help it'll be.

 

thats pretty cool but 2 questions. first i would like to paint my car a cortez silver with the dual Black Racing stripes...i seen a few old school camaros with it and i love it. Can that be done with this method? Also the metallic flakes are they in the paint or the clear coat?

 

A few q's for ya nelapse;

I've heard you can't get a good electric sander, and air is the only way. I was going to use a 5" random orbit one, but after trying it on the drivers door, it seems to "tame" the paper grit used, and it just seems weak. Do you agree? Did you use a square style one? Did it work alright? I figured on the curves you'd be SOL? Did you use a long board at all?

You sure did the body work fast. I guess you didn't have rust, and no dents? (requiring a hammer/dolly?) Do you think you did a satisfactory job on that, or do you wish you would have spent more time on it?

I didn't notice, did you use pure rattle can for primer, or just for the self etching, and use your gun for other primer? Did you sand the primer?

Oh, one tip i've heard for the readers here, when mixing bondo - try not to "whip" air into it. Basically smear it around to mix it, not like you're mixing batter for a cake.

That tip about the wire brush is a good one! Did you use a pressure washer to wash all the nooks/crannies first? I can't even imagine scrubbing the rad support area, and the hatch closing area.. *yuck*

 

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Get a Dewalt 6" Random Orbital Sander and you'll never go back to an air DA.

 

That kit is over priced. autopaintpro.com

 

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