Phase I done, Phase II-interior almost done, and now Phase III-drivetrain (454 LSX!)
#1003
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
and i am sure atleast 1000 more to come...atleast I hope! Dont to post much but everyday i get into work and i sign out just to see what the latest is on Neil car...
#1004
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I got his old C5 Z06 brakes. I feel involved now. haha.
#1005
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 690
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From: NY
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3:73s!
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
been following for a while now, definitly a sweep car. Hell, it would have been sweet with just the body mods/paint and nothing else. I give you credit, I would love to do that to my Iroc some day, but I wouldnt have paitence for some of the stuff your doing, lol./
P.S. saw the pics of your trans, dont forget to add fluid
P.S. saw the pics of your trans, dont forget to add fluid
#1007
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,627
Likes: 3
From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Yea and if I cut him off on parts, he'll never make 2000!
Just kidding Cletus....... I'll hook you up till you're finished.
And then after that, you can let me drive it for a couple of weeks!
Just kidding Cletus....... I'll hook you up till you're finished.
And then after that, you can let me drive it for a couple of weeks!
#1008
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Whittier, CA
Car: 90 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI 5.0
Transmission: 5 Speed Manual
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
OMFG! I just went thru the whole thing from 09/06 all the way till now and its 3:00 am. Great work on the car man keep going rims color of the body door poppers LSX Chichi's Christ alot of work done and more to go!
#1009
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Does anyone know if the clear headlight covers are still produced for our cars? I believe GTS made them in clear and smoked lexan. Did anyone else make them? I might just go ahead and buy some lexan and try and make a set.
#1010
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
Likes: 3
From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
not made anymore, but cutting some 1/8" lexan wouldn't be too difficult on a band saw. Remember to keep the heat down and it should be fine.
#1011
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 514
Likes: 5
From: Albany NY
Car: 84 Trans AM (sold), 87 IROC, 09 C6
Engine: Lt1 in IROC
Transmission: 5 speeds
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt tru tracker 3.42
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I recently bought a pair of clear ones made by GTS. I bought them through year one.
#1013
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I used to have smoked ones and they are only help on by these little brakets on the sides and they sucked. I got one stolen and I then threw the other away. They never sat quite right. Maybe some high end custom ones would though.
#1014
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
#1015
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Hmm. I can see that. There must be a better way though. Those covers tap a lot of dirt and dust. So you have to make sure they are easy to take off an on. Your best bet is to leave it and hope for the best, or maybe cover the lights themselves with some protevtive coating or something. The covers really are not fun. But I dunno, if you can find good ones that don't fasten down with double sided tape grooves, that hold the cover, then you should be in business. Good luck finding/making some.
------------------------
ps- Installed the brakes last weekend Neil. They are GREAT!!!! Thanks so much. I can't believe how much fast I can stop. And they look great.
One side question. Should the bleeders be on the bottom or the top? Thanks.
-Dennis
------------------------
ps- Installed the brakes last weekend Neil. They are GREAT!!!! Thanks so much. I can't believe how much fast I can stop. And they look great.
One side question. Should the bleeders be on the bottom or the top? Thanks.
-Dennis
#1016
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 0
Car: 2012 Corvette
Engine: LS3
Transmission: TR6060
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I don't think the headlights are in much danger. If a rock big enough to damage them somehow gets thrown up, it'll probably damage your windshield or paint before it does anything to the headlights. The covers don't look good either. If you want to enjoy driving the car, you have to be willing to take the chance that something will happen to your car while you're out driving it.
#1017
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
True, i would say just get that 3M clear stuff on the nose and call it a day. Maybe they can put some on your headlights. Not sure due to temps, but maybe. With will not met them get scratched and maybe even toughen up the glass since it will be all tied together and less prone to shattering.
But with all that said. How many people have ever herd of anyone's headlights being smashed in by a highway rock? With any car for that matter. Even fog lights that are mounted lower and are generally have lower quality everything in them seem to never get smashed in.
IMO you are A-OK just leaving them. (I think they look kinda strange too)
But with all that said. How many people have ever herd of anyone's headlights being smashed in by a highway rock? With any car for that matter. Even fog lights that are mounted lower and are generally have lower quality everything in them seem to never get smashed in.
IMO you are A-OK just leaving them. (I think they look kinda strange too)
#1019
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Neil, Are the still the standard size headlamps as i would fine on my stock camaro?
#1020
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
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From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Yeah, I hear you guys but in my opinion there is more to gain by using headlight covers for highway use. Since I have a fiberglass hood, I think they would help improve aerodynamics over the hood instead of air pushing up under the hood (just above the healight pockets). I would want to have a way to remove them for shows and cruising around town...i'll see if I can figure something out.
#1021
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I work for a company that install the clear bras on cars...Have you heard of them? I bet i could make a pattern for the headlamps pretty easily if you would want a set...
I've been thinking about doing it for myself...Just havent had the modivation since i am probably going to be selling my car....
I've been thinking about doing it for myself...Just havent had the modivation since i am probably going to be selling my car....
#1022
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I work for a company that install the clear bras on cars...Have you heard of them? I bet i could make a pattern for the headlamps pretty easily if you would want a set...
I've been thinking about doing it for myself...Just havent had the modivation since i am probably going to be selling my car....
I've been thinking about doing it for myself...Just havent had the modivation since i am probably going to be selling my car....
Do you use 3M or Xpel?
#1023
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Actually 3M and X-Pel are actually the same material....I actually use something called Ventureshield from the venturetape company....go to http://www.ventureshield.com/ if you want to read a little about the product... Then let me know and will get it done in the next week or so...Will have to do it when i get a minute here and there
#1024
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Wow, that stuff looks to be pretty amazing! I am definitely intersted, how much for the front end and nose of the hood. Do you also have thicker material for the parking lights? I also think i'll add some behind the rear wheels.
#1025
Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
The issue we have is that venturetape makes all the patterns and they only do newer model cars so i dont have a pattern for our cars unfortunitly!! I have been trying to get them to do one...because 1 pattern will cover a good chunck of 10 years except a few exceptions....Give me a few days I will see what i can come up with.
#1026
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 2
From: Peoria, IL USA
Car: 91 GTA
Engine: 377ci
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: QP Ford 9" 3.70s
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I meant to jump in on the tank discussion a while ago. I have had excellent results adding a sump to the stock tank and using the pump from an 87 F150 dual tanker. If you need more volume the areomotive unite is the way to fly. I have put together cars with the ford pump that ran 400+ at the wheels. If you need some tips on adding a sump just holler. I got some pics somewhere too.
#1027
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iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,212
Likes: 10
From: Bertram (outside Austin), TX
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Dana M78 3.27 posi
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I meant to jump in on the tank discussion a while ago. I have had excellent results adding a sump to the stock tank and using the pump from an 87 F150 dual tanker. If you need more volume the areomotive unite is the way to fly. I have put together cars with the ford pump that ran 400+ at the wheels. If you need some tips on adding a sump just holler. I got some pics somewhere too.
#1028
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 2
From: Peoria, IL USA
Car: 91 GTA
Engine: 377ci
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: QP Ford 9" 3.70s
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Not if done correctly.
1. of course the tank needs to be empty.
2. It helps if you can leave it sitting opened up for a while.
3. Flush with compressed air.
4. Fill with argon or nitrogen. I usually let the gas run high volume for a minute or so, then I leave it on a continuous regulated flow while I open up the tank for the sump.
5. Drill 1/2 inch hole with a sharp bit. This will be enough to get the tin snips in.
6. cut out the size of sump you plan on attaching.
7 once the hole is cut for the sump, you are pretty much home free. It would take a serious expansion of gas to blow up a tank with a 6" X 6" hole in it. If being on the extremely careful side let it sit for a couple days with a big hole in it.
8. weld the sump on and paint the welds or check the tak for leaks depending on your skill level of welding.
I have worked on numerous gas tanks. Mostly because of peoples fear of blowing up. It is a founded fear, but highly unlikely. If the tank and work area are well vented, smal amounts of gasoline does not have the expansion rate or volume to explode large areas. Think about what it takes to get it to explode in your cylinder correctly. If there is some left it may cause a flame, but those are easy to put out, no different than catching a bench or solvent on fire and having to pat it out with a glove or something.
1. of course the tank needs to be empty.
2. It helps if you can leave it sitting opened up for a while.
3. Flush with compressed air.
4. Fill with argon or nitrogen. I usually let the gas run high volume for a minute or so, then I leave it on a continuous regulated flow while I open up the tank for the sump.
5. Drill 1/2 inch hole with a sharp bit. This will be enough to get the tin snips in.
6. cut out the size of sump you plan on attaching.
7 once the hole is cut for the sump, you are pretty much home free. It would take a serious expansion of gas to blow up a tank with a 6" X 6" hole in it. If being on the extremely careful side let it sit for a couple days with a big hole in it.
8. weld the sump on and paint the welds or check the tak for leaks depending on your skill level of welding.
I have worked on numerous gas tanks. Mostly because of peoples fear of blowing up. It is a founded fear, but highly unlikely. If the tank and work area are well vented, smal amounts of gasoline does not have the expansion rate or volume to explode large areas. Think about what it takes to get it to explode in your cylinder correctly. If there is some left it may cause a flame, but those are easy to put out, no different than catching a bench or solvent on fire and having to pat it out with a glove or something.
#1029
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Lafayette,NY car is in Hudson Falls,NY
Car: 1984 camaro
Engine: 2.8l to 383 stroker
Transmission: t5 to th400
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt soon with 3.73s
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
hey neil have you figured out the manual door release yet if your still going to do one ?........this goes like way back
#1030
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
----------
Not if done correctly.
1. of course the tank needs to be empty.
2. It helps if you can leave it sitting opened up for a while.
3. Flush with compressed air.
4. Fill with argon or nitrogen. I usually let the gas run high volume for a minute or so, then I leave it on a continuous regulated flow while I open up the tank for the sump.
5. Drill 1/2 inch hole with a sharp bit. This will be enough to get the tin snips in.
6. cut out the size of sump you plan on attaching.
7 once the hole is cut for the sump, you are pretty much home free. It would take a serious expansion of gas to blow up a tank with a 6" X 6" hole in it. If being on the extremely careful side let it sit for a couple days with a big hole in it.
8. weld the sump on and paint the welds or check the tak for leaks depending on your skill level of welding.
I have worked on numerous gas tanks. Mostly because of peoples fear of blowing up. It is a founded fear, but highly unlikely. If the tank and work area are well vented, smal amounts of gasoline does not have the expansion rate or volume to explode large areas. Think about what it takes to get it to explode in your cylinder correctly. If there is some left it may cause a flame, but those are easy to put out, no different than catching a bench or solvent on fire and having to pat it out with a glove or something.
1. of course the tank needs to be empty.
2. It helps if you can leave it sitting opened up for a while.
3. Flush with compressed air.
4. Fill with argon or nitrogen. I usually let the gas run high volume for a minute or so, then I leave it on a continuous regulated flow while I open up the tank for the sump.
5. Drill 1/2 inch hole with a sharp bit. This will be enough to get the tin snips in.
6. cut out the size of sump you plan on attaching.
7 once the hole is cut for the sump, you are pretty much home free. It would take a serious expansion of gas to blow up a tank with a 6" X 6" hole in it. If being on the extremely careful side let it sit for a couple days with a big hole in it.
8. weld the sump on and paint the welds or check the tak for leaks depending on your skill level of welding.
I have worked on numerous gas tanks. Mostly because of peoples fear of blowing up. It is a founded fear, but highly unlikely. If the tank and work area are well vented, smal amounts of gasoline does not have the expansion rate or volume to explode large areas. Think about what it takes to get it to explode in your cylinder correctly. If there is some left it may cause a flame, but those are easy to put out, no different than catching a bench or solvent on fire and having to pat it out with a glove or something.
Wow, very cool! Well, I already ordered a tank from Nasty Performance and it should be on it's way as we speak. I'll post pics when I get it.
Last edited by Neil; 09-12-2007 at 06:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#1031
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Neil thats the same plan I have and I have handles. I just don't have locks. I am pretty skinny so last resort is climbing in the back and around the roll bars. haha. it will be like a jungle jim.
haven't had to yet.
haven't had to yet.
#1033
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
#1034
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
No real complaints with it at all. Went in east. Clutch feel is great. Very easy to use on a DD. And i can **** just as smooth as I can with my moms carolla wagon.
Now if I really really lay into it, like a full dump from 30 MPH in 2nd and 50 grand... she will chatter a bit and I have to let off so that it will bit, but once it does. BAM! I am outta there. and doesn't let for when I **** either. I mean that from 2nd to 3rd, full on blast the chatter is gone totally. So I dunno. I consider my car a street car, so For me it is great, I can give 95% of all my HP and it is 100% great. Once this one is dead, I don't think I am going to the dual disk Mcleod. Too much $ for not that much an improvement in performance.
Now if I really really lay into it, like a full dump from 30 MPH in 2nd and 50 grand... she will chatter a bit and I have to let off so that it will bit, but once it does. BAM! I am outta there. and doesn't let for when I **** either. I mean that from 2nd to 3rd, full on blast the chatter is gone totally. So I dunno. I consider my car a street car, so For me it is great, I can give 95% of all my HP and it is 100% great. Once this one is dead, I don't think I am going to the dual disk Mcleod. Too much $ for not that much an improvement in performance.
#1035
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,627
Likes: 3
From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I'm not highjacking your thread, Cletus!!
As far as a clutch goes, I'm looking into a single disc Exedy clutch.
As far as a clutch goes, I'm looking into a single disc Exedy clutch.
#1036
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
What kind of tranny are you running? I can't find anything on their site that shows to fit the 93-97 T-56...
#1037
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,627
Likes: 3
From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
It's special order... is what I was told from Exedy. LT-1 style T-56 clutches are not in their catalog.
#1038
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Oh well in that case, I kinda would stay away from them. I like parts that are being used by many, takes away surprises that have not been engineered out. But maybe thats just me since I am an engineer and think like that. Clutches can either be a great experience or horrible. I am most likely gonna get another Spec stage 3, I think now they have a 3+. I am getting my car back from the dyno today. If it rips the tires when I mash it, I will stick the 3, but if it slips with 400RWHP then I will go for the 3+.
Neil what are you gonna run? Mcleod twin disk?
Neil what are you gonna run? Mcleod twin disk?
#1039
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Oh well in that case, I kinda would stay away from them. I like parts that are being used by many, takes away surprises that have not been engineered out. But maybe thats just me since I am an engineer and think like that. Clutches can either be a great experience or horrible. I am most likely gonna get another Spec stage 3, I think now they have a 3+. I am getting my car back from the dyno today. If it rips the tires when I mash it, I will stick the 3, but if it slips with 400RWHP then I will go for the 3+.
Neil what are you gonna run? Mcleod twin disk?
Neil what are you gonna run? Mcleod twin disk?
#1040
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Right on. I can't wait to see how you like it. So in the future I can figure out if it is a good back up plan if my spec doesn't hold up.
#1041
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 570
Likes: 0
From: New Berlin Wi
Car: 88 Iroc
Engine: 94 lt1 modded
Transmission: t 56
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
I'm running a street twin. I have nothing bad to say about it. other than it's expensive.
Kory
Kory
#1042
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
It's been a while since i've posted pics, so here are a few of the progress I have made on the T-bar and the weather stripping-window channels. It took along time to get the original paint, old adheisve and rust off these pieces! What a pain in the a$$, so labor intensive but worth it. I didn't want to spend another $175 on a new T-bar that would end up rusting like the 2 previous ones I have purchased so I deceided to POR-15 my old one. It worked quite nicely and it is very strong, like powder coating! I prepared the metal same as before using the POR-Marine Clean, then the POR-Metal Ready which etches the metal with phosphoric acid and then coats the metal with zinc phosphate, which promotes adhesion with the POR-15 paint. The pic on the left was taken after the pieces were coated with Metal Ready and then the others with the POR-15 paint. The t-bar doesn't look perfect, especially in the weather stripping channel, but I am not worried about it since you won't see it. I never thought this stuff was that good, but I am amazed at how strong it is!
Last edited by Neil; 09-17-2007 at 09:54 PM.
#1043
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
some more...wherever the paint appears rough, especially on the ends is where alot of rust was and now it is strong and resistant to any further rust. Hopefully i'll never have to pull this off again and find out if the POR paint worked as well as they claim it does!
Last edited by Neil; 09-17-2007 at 09:58 PM.
#1044
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
A couple new components from BMR. A T-56 trans crossmember without the torque arm mount (I already have a stand alone torque arm mount...will take pics of it next time I am under the car, probably tomorrow). Also a new BMR upper panhard bar which has mounts to relocate it lower for added clearance for the exhaust (maybe i'll put true duals on it some day ).
#1045
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 65
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
What TQ arm setup are you going with?
I am getting a little tired of my Spohn one since my pipes have to go way under it. I will just end up notching it, but just curious to see what you are going with.
I am getting a little tired of my Spohn one since my pipes have to go way under it. I will just end up notching it, but just curious to see what you are going with.
#1048
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Car: '87+'02 Z28
Engine: 454 LSX
Transmission: T-56, Viper output shaft
Axle/Gears: Strage 12-bolt 3.73:1
#1049
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 632
Likes: 6
From: college station, texas
Car: numerous
Engine: ls1, others
Transmission: t56, others
Axle/Gears: 3.23 7.6"
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Last edited by yevgenievich; 09-18-2007 at 09:43 AM.
#1050
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Car: 2008 Chevy Equinox Sport
Engine: V6 - 263 hp
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: Factory
Re: Phase I complete, now Phase II IROC restoration - on to the interior!
Ok...backing up to the headlight covers...
To quote my good friend Cameron Fry from Ferris Bueller's Day Off:
"It could get wrecked, stolen, scratched, breathed on wrong... a pigeon could sh*t on it! Who knows? "
Hey do you guys know where Neil can get a huge box made of Lexan with holes cut out for the wheels and exhaust? I mean what if a bug hits the windshield or some moron left his sprinklers on too long and made puddles in the street??!!
STOP BEING A CANDYA$$!!!! No show cars have headlight covers! (this is not a daliy driver...see page 1, post#1) The bikini clad girl in hooker heels will laugh at you before she sprawls over the hood if you put those on.
Question to all the readers...Have any of you EVER had a headlight broken by a rock or some type of road hazzard (excluding animals)?
Seriously though the neon lights for the bottom of the car are sweet! He got pink...
To quote my good friend Cameron Fry from Ferris Bueller's Day Off:
"It could get wrecked, stolen, scratched, breathed on wrong... a pigeon could sh*t on it! Who knows? "
Hey do you guys know where Neil can get a huge box made of Lexan with holes cut out for the wheels and exhaust? I mean what if a bug hits the windshield or some moron left his sprinklers on too long and made puddles in the street??!!
STOP BEING A CANDYA$$!!!! No show cars have headlight covers! (this is not a daliy driver...see page 1, post#1) The bikini clad girl in hooker heels will laugh at you before she sprawls over the hood if you put those on.
Question to all the readers...Have any of you EVER had a headlight broken by a rock or some type of road hazzard (excluding animals)?
Seriously though the neon lights for the bottom of the car are sweet! He got pink...