Okay.. I screwed up and jumped a curb.. i wasnt going very slow nor fast either and both my front tires popped and now my tires rub and there is a gap larger on the front wheel well than the back side of the wheel well.. let the pics talk..


This shows how little room there is between the back side of the wheel to the wheel well and the wheel was turned just BARELY cause i left it parked at an angle..

other side of wheel well


also like the passenger side... there is a gap from the tire to the front of the car and the back side (towards the firewall) of the wheel well.. there is a small gap.. where it rubs.

dented oil pan:

 

this was dented also.. not sure what it is.. and so was my y pipe


once again..


from a side view.. the fender and front of side skirt hit the curb as well.. and the fender is nicely tucked away behind the side skirt at a 90 degree angle..

 

1 more side view..


and a random under car picture of the front


ahh man..

 

so what.. what do you guys think.... man i feel like crap

 

you must have hit a moose and ran it over, thats a giant dent in the k member?

Im not sure, maybe your front end just got tweaked?
(just from looking at the wack the k member took)

Besides that i wouldnt have the right to say its messed

Gl i hope its alright

 

didn't see that curb in front of ya? lol jk

looks fine; if all you damaged was the k member. Big job replacing it but looks like the way to go. Alot of people would suggest jumping to a tubular one on space and weight savings however this kind of "street incicent" kind of makes me relook how a factory k member may have saved further damage to your car in this case in respect to a tubular piece...
I mean the factory piece had a lot of material that absorbed the curb as obosed to a tubular piece which has one thick bar that would of been pushed up imidiately if not (since its smaller) the curb would of missed it and slamed the oil pan...

In any case that y pipe should be replaced and inspect that oil pan...as the y pipe was stuck inbetween a rock and a hard place and most likely pushed up on the pan.
Also make sure all your brake lines are ok as a few are attached to the k.

Not to serious; good luck getting her back up to par.

 

This is off topic, but your Iroc looks exactly like mine minus your exhaust tips what kind of curb did you ramp over?

 

Check your frame rails they are most likely bent.

 

yeah i was driving under the influence of medication.. i was dying sick that day and didnt even see the curb.. and no i wasnt drunk.. but it seems as if its my k-member from what you guys said... im on my way to a shop to get the oil pan checked and y pipe replaced or just to bridge that damaged part. any ideas of what replacing the k member would cost me..?? any recommendations.. im probably gonna just use a stock factory one but have no idea where to look.. im not too savvy on this stuff either so I doubt I can take one off a car at the junk yard..

 

you will have to cut the subframe from the bottom of the car and replace it as a unit.

you could pull it but if you get hit everything will colapse RIP

I have a shell of a car with what you need. And I have a torch- FUN FUN FUN

I am in southern Il but if you want to get one closer thats cool.

Just make sure that the people who weld it in can read and measure

 

okay okay phew.... no subframe damage.. but the k member is a goner... what consists of the k member that im going to need.. the only problem now is the tire rubbing.. b.c they were moved back a little on both front tires but the oil pan and y pipe are being worked on as i type.. so yeah.. what next........

 

I'll bet the place you took it to didn't check it very well.With the fender moved that much you can guarantee the right side frame rail is bent.I would take it to a frame or body shop and have it measured.

 

nah man.. the fender on the pass side hit the curb also.. with the sideskirt and thats why the fender is sticking out a bit... cause it was crimped up when it hit the curb too

 

Have a good look at where the fender mounts along the very bottom part at that tab along the rocker flange.Most likely that is bent and is the reason why the fender is misaligned.It happens all the time when people jack up the car on the wrong point and bend that flange and the same thing happens.That is no big deal,just get under there and rebend it all till the fender is back in alignment.The k-member is gone,I would go with an aftermarket tubular one.Lighter and stronger and not a bad price all in all.I think around $500-ish.Just like they said,be careful because the tubular one has a whole lot less tolerance for hitting curbs.Good luck,beautiful car..don't let the insurance company total it.

 

like i said before; your k member will need to be replaced, new y pipe and hammer out or buy a new oil pan.

if your tires are rubbing the fenders then you'll need new fenders

if your tires are rubbing the inner fender well then your a arms could of got pushed with the k member and could be bent.

And continueing my opinion of the first post; an aftermarket tubular k member would have caused much more severe damage then the stock unit; so I see no reason for you to upgrade for weight and space on an otherwise stock 3rd gen.

total cost im saying 800-1000 bux to check and fix everything; with the idea there is no frame damage which with a basic 4-8" curb would NOT of resulted.

 

who cares about the k member you just lost like 3 hp with that dent in the y pipe jk that really sucks. those tires are brand new! good luck

 

If your tire is pushed back, pull it off and check the control arm. Very likely you bent that, as I've had it happen to me.

 

That car got severly "tweaked" and you can beilive there is a lot more damage then just a oil pan,k member, y pipe. That car has a lot more damage then all your seeing visually. It needs to have the frame straightened. That fender is way out obviously and will need to be positioned correctly. Do it right or you will not like the wierd noises and strange driving habits to come.

Good luck...

 

on going with the fact you said you hit a CURB. there is no reason to jump to false conclusions the frame is bent.

the tires would contact the curb before the frame does.

and the damage to the k member and y pipe seems to layout the exact size and shape of the curb. which are removable pieces. the fenders obviously contacted the curb as welll and pulled their mount bolts / holes out a little.

there is nothing indicating the need to have the car on a rack by the describtion and the pictures.

 

yyyeah the tires hit..they both blew and then the k member and y pipe and pan hit... nothing else hit as the car went over.. nothing else is scratched or damaged... i was looking at some tubular k members at hawks third gen.. theyre like in the ~500 range.. but what about labor.. any ideas..

ahhhh yeah the hawks ones arent what im looking for.. they look flimsy.. and are more for off road whereas i use my car as more of a daily driver..

 

the motor has to be lifted, unbolt the mounts, take off the wheels, drop the springs and finally a-arms can be unbolted. after all the lines and wires are disconnected the new one goes in.

tubular ones are great for space and some weight savings but if you hit a curb again with a tubular one there won't be that nice of results as you had now.

like i said going back to stock should cost around 800-1000bux materials and labor

a new tubular k member is going to be around 500 and make sure the one you get works with the stock a arms. As like the bmr one for instince only works with their own a-arm.

 

does anyone sell the stock k member.. i might end up getting new a arms as well.. just in case.. might as well

 

Go to a junkyard and get the parts you need. I'd stick with stock parts if curb jumping is your thing to do

 

lmao.. but yeah.. i already got the oil pan changed and i got a new y pipe. this sunday my dad and i are going to the junk yard but it was for another reason.. i guess this time ill see if there are any k members that arent bad.. what is a good k member suppose to look like to start with.. theres a bunch of thirdgens there some without motors so those will be easier to take out..

 

if you get one out of a junk yard,replace the motor mounts while you have everything apart.Don't trust the old ones.

 

look for any thirdgen with no front end damage and snag the k...or if the yard has them laying in the back ask to go back there and look for the straightest one with the least amount of rust...also look at all the holes for bolts and make sure no bolt sheared through the metal.

if it looks decent id suppose it would be worth $100-$200 bux but who knows with used pieces like that...they are as much as the last person was willing to pay plus $50 bux so try and talk him down to $100 and fight that the rusty pos isn't really worth the ground it sits on.

then get some por15 and be done with it.

 

can anybody post up a pic of there stock k member and their stock a arms so i can have an idea of what theyre suppose to look like when theyre not ****ed up........

 

do a search, plenty of people posted pictures when they switched to a tubular piece for comparrison reasons...

 

The K member and control arms are a fairly simple job to do, it's all the other crap that you have to do that's the work. If you have the time, the space and the tools available you can do this.

I had a doner car at home with me, I scavenged most of these components from there. If you can find a car with the motor already out, this would be a huge plus for you, if your front brake lines are hurting now is the time.

I seem to remember the K member having four main retaining bolts and two brackets with three bolts each, you should check though. Count on removing quite a bit of the front end mechanical components, replace as required and check you strut towers for rust and wear.

I think I have some pics, I'll send them when I find them.

Regards,

Dave

 

where do you live i have a stock k-member i can sell you if your close

 

Just took a couple pics of mine. Yes I know there's oil on the driver's header, pushrod broke at the track and I just quickly put the valve cover back on to get it up on the trailer.

 

here

 

Looks like another winner for stock K member over tubular on the streets

If you had a tubular in there, you definately wouldnt have an oilpan anymore and your bottom end would be demolished